Tag: taste of the wild

Springtime Is Catio Time

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Two cats sitting in an enclosed catio playroom out on a patio.

Is there better porch weather than spring weather?  And is there a better purrson to share porch time with than your cat? Well, to make sure you both get the most out of your porch (or backyard, in lieu of a good sittin’ porch), here’s how to add a catio to your recreation area.

What’s a catio, you ask? Essentially, it’s a patio built with cats in mind. They come in all shapes, sizes and colors, depending on your space and preference. The only real requirement is that your catio is an enclosed space where your cat can enjoy the wonders of the great outdoors safely. They can be small window-set enclosures or giant free-standing play areas. Catios are something cats of all ages can enjoy.

How to Make the Right Catio for Your Cat and Home

You don’t have to have a big backyard or wraparound porch to make this cat dream work! You’ll find that there’s a catio layout for nearly every situation. This means you can make a catio work whether you’re in an apartment, duplex, house or otherwise.

First, if you’re renting your dwelling, we recommend getting permission from your property manager prior to getting started. There are catio options that are less permanent than others.

Next, choose the best location for your catio. This could be a window, an existing deck or a level spot in the backyard. Once you roughly know what dimensions you’re looking at, you can decide whether you want to buy a cat enclosure to assemble or build one from scratch. Cat enclosures are sold at most pet stores as well as online retailers like Amazon.

Building a catio from scratch can mean purchasing all new materials OR it could mean visiting your local Habitat ReStore and thrift shops for repurposed materials. Who knows, a refurbished chicken coop from the local thrift shop could be the starting point for your new catio! You don’t have to be a carpenter to build a catio, and you don’t have to break the bank crafting one either.

The main things to remember are that your catio is secured to the ground and/or side of the dwelling, and that there are no sharp edges or exposed nails that could harm your cat. We don’t want Mittens to escape or get hurt.

Don’t Forget the Decorations

Once you’re done building your cat enclosure, it’s time to decorate. Cats enjoy climbing and a bird’s-eye view. If your catio is big enough, add multiple perches, platforms and ladders.  Also, place a blanket, cat bed or cat hammock in the enclosure for your furry feline to curl up and relax. Provide their favorite toys, a water bowl and a couple of treats.

Bonus tip: Add a birdbath or bird-friendly plants a safe distance from the catio so your feline has hours of birding ahead of them.

Introducing Your Cat to Their Oasis

It may take Mittens a week or two to fully get used to the new space. We recommend keeping an eye on your feline to determine when they need to go back inside. Each cat is unique, so you may notice during the first catio experience that Mittens is okay with 10 minutes or they may be alright with 30 minutes. Slowly work your cat up to spending more time in their catio.

Before you know it, they’ll be eager to enjoy their oasis for hours on end.

Benefits of a Catio

Think about the potential veterinary bills that come from a free-roaming cat. Cringe. Now, release a sigh of relief as you envision Mittens safe in their enclosure. Ahhhh. But that’s not the only benefit a catio can provide!

  • A catio allows your furry companion to take in a variety of smells, sights and noises. This provides them an outlet for expending pent-up energy.
  • Cats are a significant threat to birds, so a catio is the perfect solution for protecting cats and birds alike. More birding for you and Mittens on the horizon!
  • Like humans, cats can feel cooped up. When your pet can take in fresh air, they’ll be more relaxed and content.
  • May reduce exposure to strays and the diseases they carry.
  • A happy, healthy indoor cat is a cat with a longer life span. Yes, keeping your pet safe in a catio opposed to letting them roam the neighborhood increases your cat’s longevity.
  • You get to introduce your furry friend to some of your favorite activities, like gardening or family BBQs.

So are you ready to get your cat into their new catio?  We’re pretty sure your cat is ready! With the right amount of creativity and passion, you’ll have the perfect oasis for your cat in no time. Warmer weather, here you both come!

RELATED POST: Enrichment Tips to Keep Your Indoor Cat Happy

Behind the Breed: Greyhounds

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A cartoon greyhound with his tongue out next to display text ‘greyhound quick facts’.

Most people know greyhounds as long, lean, running machines. This impression is entirely true: they have been clocked at over 40 miles per hour and are considered the fastest dog breed. What you may not realize is that these speedy sprinters don’t need to be constantly running — they would love to snuggle with you on the couch, too. The regal greyhound dog is a true snuggler compared to many other dogs!

The Greyhound Dog: An Ancient Breed with Regal History

Greyhounds are one of the oldest dog breeds. They are graceful and elegant, which may be why they’ve been popular subjects for artists throughout time. They have been depicted in ancient Greek and Egyptian art and have been associated with pharaohs, English royalty and a U.S. president. Rutherford B. Hayes, the 19th president of the United States, brought his 2-year-old greyhound Grim to the White House with him. It’s reported that Grim liked to sing “The Star Spangled Banner” with First Lady Lucy Hayes.

Recognized as a breed by the American Kennel Club in 1885, the greyhound dog breed is part of the hound group. A similar breed is the Italian greyhound, which is a toy version of the greyhound. Like their bigger counterparts, Italian greyhounds have a natural chase instinct, but they are also affectionate and love to cuddle. Another similar breed is the Spanish greyhound.

Greyhounds Are the Racers of the Dog World

A greyhound’s lean body is built for speed, which is probably why they were used to chase prey. Unlike other hunting breeds like basset hounds and beagles, scenthounds that can track prey, greyhounds are sighthounds bred to hunt by sight and outrun their prey, especially small animals.

Today there are two types of greyhounds in the U.S.: racing and show greyhounds (same breed, different goals). Most pet greyhounds are retired racing greyhounds. Greyhound racing tracks were first built in the U.S. in the 1920s when the mechanical lure was invented. The money wagered on dog races peaked in 1991 at $3.5 billion, according to Racing Commission International, and has since significantly declined due to less interest from bettors and dog racing bans. According to Grey2K USA, a nonprofit entity that advocates banning modern greyhound racing and promotes the rescue and adoption of greyhounds, West Virginia is the only state with active, legal dog racing tracks (two active tracks).

Greyhounds Characteristics Make Them More Than Your Average Rescue Dog

Adopting a retired greyhound is a little different than adopting another breed of dog. They have probably never lived in a home, and it’s likely that the only dogs they have been around are other greyhounds. This means that they will need to learn to socialize with other dogs in a neutral space and be introduced to common household objects like vacuums, windows and hardwood floors. The good news is that because racing greyhounds tend to be crated and on strict schedules, they are usually easy to potty train.

Greyhound characteristics dictate that they will always have the instinct to chase, so they should be kept on a leash unless they’re in an enclosed area — which will be needed so that they can do some zoomies. Other than a burst of speed in a secure area, a short walk once or twice a day will generally be enough exercise for them. Even though they were athletes, they don’t typically need performance food, but check with your veterinarian about which dog food is best for them.

The Greyhound Personality Is Gentle for Such a Large Dog

A pet greyhound is calm, gentle, sweet-natured and very affectionate. Most greyhounds are also not big barkers and have a quiet demeanor which makes them perfect for apartment living, even better than some other pets. The greyhound temperament is wonderful for pet owners looking for terrific dogs to be the family pet. Retired greyhounds are large dogs but much more adaptable, low-maintenance dogs than many other breeds.

What Are Greyhound Colors?

Despite their drab name, you can find greyhound puppies and adults in a variety of hues. In fact, the “grey” greyhounds are technically called “blue” and are the rarest color of greyhound puppies. The most common greyhound color is brindle, followed by a spotted white, black and red. They also can be found in “fawn” colors, which makes sense since they’re quick like a deer!

Where Can I Find a Greyhound Puppy?

The most common (and needed) way to adopt a greyhound is to offer a home to retired racers, but you can also find a greyhound puppy from a reputable breeder. Puppies are getting harder to find because there aren’t as many greyhound breeders since racing was regulated in most places. Whether you find a puppy or a retired racer, these loyal couch potatoes offer traits that are perfect for families with children and active dog owners alike.

Do Greyhounds Shed?

They shed all year round, although their short hair is a little easier to manage than most dogs. Regular brushing can minimize the hair left on your couch, and their smooth coat means that the brushing is easier than with some dogs. These dogs’ coats are sleek, and with regular maintenance the shedding is more than manageable.

For more information about this gentle dog breed, check out the Greyhound Club of North America here. It’s the national breed club for greyhounds within the AKC. Many greyhound owners have this page bookmarked.

To read more about racing dogs or other breeds similar to greyhounds, like the mighty Weimaraner, bookmark our blog!

A cartoon greyhound with his tongue out next to display text ‘greyhound quick facts’.

Can My Dog Eat That? Popcorn

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Can my dog eat popcorn? Yes!

Welcome to “Can My Dog Eat That?,” our series that answers some obvious (and not-so-obvious) questions about what your dog can and can’t safely eat. You can view some of the previous foods we’ve looked at in our “Can my dog eat that?” guide. Today we answer the question “Can dogs eat popcorn?” Read on!

It’s movie night! You’ve got the latest release on pause, ready to go. You’ve dimmed the lights and grabbed the blankets ready for snuggles with your canine bestie. The last, but essential, part of your movie night preparations is the popcorn. You’ve popped a big bowl, but on the way to the couch, you trip over your dog’s ball and some popcorn falls to the floor.

Before you can say “No people food!” your canine vacuum cleaner has sucked it all up and is looking very proud of themselves for helping you clean. But now you’re thinking, “Can my dog eat popcorn?” It’s a valid question that’s probably been asked by many pet parents preparing for movie night with their canine couch companion.

So, Can Dogs Eat Popcorn?

The answer is yes, depending on the amount and the toppings. Air-popped popcorn that doesn’t have any salt, butter or other toppings on it is generally safe for your dog.

As an occasional treat, plain popcorn is great, as long as you keep to the guideline of feeding no more than 10 percent of your dog’s total daily calorie intake as treats. Plain air-popped popcorn is also a good alternative to traditional dog treats if your dog has chronic kidney disease or another health issue that requires them to limit their protein and sodium intake.

Popcorn does have some nutritional benefits for dogs, like fiber and some minerals and vitamins. However, your dog should already be getting the right nutrients in the right amounts from a complete and balanced dog food, so the popcorn nutrients aren’t really needed.

You do need to make sure you clear the popcorn bowl of kernels that didn’t pop. Dogs can’t digest these and they could get stuck in their teeth, which can be painful. If you have a toy breed, unpopped kernels could also be a choking hazard for them.

Plain Popcorn Only

Popcorn isn’t toxic to dogs, but it does become a problem when you start adding toppings to it. Butter and salt are not healthy for dogs. Let’s be honest, they’re not really healthy for people either — but they make the popcorn sooo tasty. Butter, oil and salt can cause your dog to have an upset gastrointestinal tract (think vomiting and diarrhea) and all of that delicious fat can stack on the pounds if your dog is eating buttered popcorn regularly. Eating too many high-fat foods can also increase your dog’s risk of developing pancreatitis. If your dog happens to “vacuum” up a few pieces from the floor, they will probably be OK. Just make sure they don’t have access to the whole bowl.

Sweet Toppings Are a No-No, Too!

The oh-so-sweet toppings for kettle corn, cinnamon-sugar popcorn and caramel popcorn can also switch popcorn over to the “That’s not good for you” list with all of their sugar content. And you should definitely avoid feeding popcorn to your dog if it’s coated in an ingredient that is toxic to dogs, like chocolate or xylitol (artificial sweetener).

So, if you’re wanting to share some popcorn with your dog next movie night, it’s generally OK to make them a little bowl of plain, air-popped popcorn. Just make sure they don’t get any of the delicious buttery popcorn — that’s for people only.

If you’re curious about your dog’s ability to eat other crunchy snacks, bookmark our blog!

Interior graphic with text that reads ‘Can my dog eat popcorn? Yes (if it's plain)’.

Behind the Breed: Australian Shepherd

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A view from the side of a brown and white Australian shepherd.

Have you ever wondered about the origins of a dog breed? In our “Behind the Breed” series we’ll dive into the history, personality and physical appearance of a particular breed. We’ll also cover some of the FAQs about the breed and maybe some fun facts, too!

History of the Australian Shepherd Breed

First things first: Australian shepherds aren’t really Australian, and it’s unlikely that you’ll find many in Australia, as they are actually a United States breed. The origins of Aussies, as they’re affectionately known, start in the Basque region of Spain. In the 1800s, Basque shepherds took the dogs to pastures in the Australian Outback, where they were crossed with border collies and other dogs, and gained a popular following. As news of these remarkable, energetic herding dogs spread around the world, ranchers, most notably in California, started importing the dogs to work on their ranches, where they perfected today’s standard of the breed. So you could say that Aussies have some serious mileage on them.

Aussies Are Hard Workin’ Tricksters

Beyond their use as working dogs, the breed gained popularity by performing both herding feats and tricks at traveling rodeos. In the 1950s and 1960s, Jay Sisler, a popular rodeo owner and performer, popularized his touring rodeo by promoting it with his trained Aussies. The breed’s instinctive need to have a job quickly made them popular as seeing eye dogs, hearing dogs, search and rescue dogs and even explosive detection dogs. Australian shepherds also excel at trick training, obedience trials, agility and many other dog sports. 

Are Australian Shepherds Smart Like a Border Collie?

Yes, Aussies are very smart. An Australian shepherd puppy is generally easy to train (as are adults). But they are one of the dog breeds who definitely need jobs, as being productive is ingrained into their DNA. If they’re not stimulated, Australian shepherds will act out, which could be bad news for your couch cushions. Frequent exercise is also a requirement for Aussies — meaning this breed is best for active people. But given a good vocation, these dogs can be content family pets. Just keep them busy, or they’ll wear you out!

Australian Shepherd Size and Life Expectancy

Male Aussies weigh up to 65 pounds and can be up to 23 inches at the shoulders, while females are slightly smaller at 55 pounds and up to 21 inches tall. The Australian shepherd’s lifespan is around 12 to 15 years. They are generally healthy dogs, but relatively common breed issues include hip or elbow dysplasia, epilepsy and eye conditions (e.g., progressive retinal atrophy).

Mini Australian shepherds range from 20 to 40 pounds and 13 to 18 inches tall. Mini Aussies didn’t lose their natural herding instincts with the size; they have an affinity for horses that means they can be commonly found at horse shows.

Australian Shepherd Colors and Appearance

Australian shepherds have four “acceptable” coat colors by AKC standards: black, blue merle, red and red merle. Their coats can also have white markings. The outer coats of Australian shepherds are usually a moderate length and coarse, while the undercoat is soft. They need regular weekly brushing sessions and maybe even more during shedding season, when you might want to use a specialized undercoat rake to help remove that loose fur from their double coat.

Their tails are either naturally bobbed or docked by their owners; and their ears break forward and over, giving them a friendly look. Their eyes can be any color combination, and many Aussies will have two different colored eyes. Blue eyes are common in Australian shepherds that have the merle gene.

Australian Shepherd Temperament

Aussies are an intelligent, medium-sized breed that possess strong herding instincts (hence the name). They are very active dogs that love stimulation and being a part of the daily grind, often enjoying car rides and being with their owners. Their herding dog instincts mean that early socialization of an Australian shepherd puppy is important, so they learn from a young age that other animals and kids don’t need to be herded into a corner of the yard! If you can supply these high-energy dogs with physical exercise and a variety of mental stimulation options, they make great family dogs.

From herding livestock to service dogs to family pets, Australian shepherds seem to be able to master it all. They’re a playful, loyal and energetic breed that thrives on mental stimulation and consistent structure — even as a family pet. If you have an active lifestyle and can provide plenty of mental challenges for your canine companion, an Aussie puppy or dog might be the one for you!

Puppy Adoption: A Taste of the Wild Guide

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Taste of the Wild

Puppy adoption can be the best time of your life and certainly the best time (so far!) of your puppy’s life. But the process isn’t without stress. Questions and uncertainty abound, especially if this is your first time adopting a puppy. What kind of puppy food should you get? Is puppy food actually that different from adult dog food? When should puppy potty training happen, and how do you handle the inevitable messes? What about leash training and socialization? You’ll likely have dozens of questions about puppy adoption, which is why we’ve assembled a number of tips for puppy adoption to help you and your new pal get off on the right…paw.

The Building Blocks of Your Puppy’s Diet

A group of puppies eating food from metal bowls on the floor.

One of the more important things you need right away is a solid understanding of puppy food nutrition. An often-raised question is “Do I really need puppy food?” and the answer is always “You really need puppy food,” or at least an all-life-stages food that is appropriate for puppies. So, when choosing a recipe, make sure you look for a “puppy diet” food or that the bag or can is very clearly labeled as “for puppies.”

Building the right nutrition into their diet now will set your puppy up for long and healthy journey into adulthood. Protein and fat are absolutely vital to your pup’s growing body, so look for those levels specifically before making your choice. But how much protein does a puppy need? There’s no exact answer to that question, since puppies vary wildly in size from breed to breed and age to age and so do their needs regarding puppy food nutrition. VCA Animal Hospitals recommend that the protein range for optimal puppy growth is 22–32 percent for dry puppy food.

To make things a bit more confusing, small breed and large breed puppies have their own specific requirements, partly because small breed puppies tend to have a higher metabolism and need more calories to keep up with their higher energy levels. Long story short: Consult with your veterinarian before choosing your puppy food. In the meantime, you can read our blog about puppy food nutrition, where we discuss:

  • The difference between puppy food and all-life-stages dog food
  • Why nutrients matter in a puppy-diet food
  • Where to find portion sizes

Getting your puppy started off properly from a nutritional standpoint will set up a lifetime of success and happiness for both of you.

READ MORE ABOUT THE BUILDING BLOCKS OF PUPPY NUTRITION

It’s Go Time: Cleaning Up When Potty Training Your Puppy

A brown puppy lying on a pee pad on the floor.

Puppy potty training. It isn’t always easy, and it will most certainly be messy at times. Every puppy is different, so every puppy potty training timeline will be different. Your pup goes on their own schedule, especially at the beginning of their potty training.

To avoid puppy messes as much as possible, here are some tried-and-true puppy potty training tips.

  • Start early. You can “officially” start potty training your pup as soon as you bring them home. Invest in some pee pads and get to work!
  • Be positive. That old “rub their nose in it” method has no place in any civilized puppy home, and it probably never should have been used. This is because it simply doesn’t work! Scolding, yelling or rubbing their nose in the spot only breeds confusion. “Am I not supposed to poop at all?” Instead, praise your pooch for doing what they need to do while immediately taking them outside, or wherever the desired target location is.
  • Set an indoor location. Unless you are on a 24/7 vigil, your puppy will go indoors. But you can control where they go and set expectations that there are designated puppy potty zones. This is where pee pads come in handy. If they know that they can go only on a pee pad, soon that pee pad will become “the grass,” and they’ll understand.
  • Crate training is puppy potty training. Dogs really try to avoid going to the bathroom where they sleep, so crate training doubles as potty training. This isn’t to say that they won’t have accidents in their crate; but most pups will hold it as long as they possibly can while crated.
  • Stick to a routine. Dogs are creatures of habit, so turn puppy potty breaks into a habit. If you take them outside at random, they won’t learn when it’s time to go. Eliminate the time variable and eventually they’ll eliminate…on time!

No matter how thorough your puppy potty training methods are, there will be accidents. And that’s OK! When it’s go time and they don’t make it to the pee pad or to the front yard, you’ll be prepared, thanks to our puppy potty training cleanup tips. We’ll tell you how to block smells and stains from your temporarily thwarted puppy potty training methods, and offer up some tips and tricks for easy cleanup.

Together, we’ll get through this. It’s go time!

READ MORE ABOUT CLEANING UP WHEN POTTY TRAINING A PUPPY

How to Train Your Puppy to Walk on a Leash

A black and tan dog walking on a leash outside.

Get outside and unleash fun by starting puppy leash training. You can start leash training a puppy as soon as you bring them home. All you need to do to start leash training your puppy is to acquire the correct size harness and leash length. Most leashes and harnesses have height/weight requirements right on the package, but you can ask your veterinarian for advice, too. Once you have that ironed out, let the puppy leash training commence.

Follow our comprehensive blog about leash training your puppy, where you’ll learn:

  • How to get your puppy comfortable with their leash
  • How to practice walking on the leash before venturing out for the real thing
  • When it’s time to test out your skills in a new environment

With these tips about puppy leash training, you’ll be going for multiple walks a day in no time.

READ MORE ABOUT HOW TO TRAIN YOUR PUPPY TO WALK ON A LEASH

Puppy Safety in the Summer

A wet puppy sitting in the sand at the beach.

Summer is never too far away. If you have a new puppy, summer is either happening or about to happen or happened not too long ago! Whatever time of year it is, you’ll need summer safety tips for your new puppy sooner or later. Why not now?

Here are a few basic tips for a new puppy’s journey through the dog days of our favorite season.

  • Don’t stay out too long! When the sun is beating down, 15–20 minutes is more than enough. When in doubt about your puppy’s safety, look for excess panting or lethargy. If that’s happening, head for the AC!
  • Stay inside! When it’s blazing out there, remember that you don’t have to go outside to have fun.
  • Never leave your puppy in a parked car. Seriously. Just don’t do it.
  • Know your puppy! Every dog has different preferences and, more importantly, tolerances. If your puppy is uncomfortable in the summer sun, get out of it!

If you’re wondering how hot is too hot to walk dogs, the American Kennel Club suggests that when the air is 85 degrees F or higher, the pavement is simply too hot for your pup’s feet without protection. But again, your puppy may be uncomfortable at a cooler temperature, so your best barometer for puppy safety in the summer sun is…your puppy! Pay attention to their needs and wants, and you’ll rarely go wrong.

READ MORE SUMMER SAFETY TIPS FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY

Socialize Your Puppy Now for a Friendlier Tomorrow

Two dogs playing near water.

Wondering when to socialize a puppy? The answer is “right now!”

If you’re engaging in leash training your puppy, socialization is a natural next step, and builds a foundation of friendliness. Socializing your puppy between 7 and 16 weeks of age can set them up to get along with everyone for the rest of their lives.

But mostly, you want to get them used to other dogs so you can traverse trails and do the dog parks without worry. So how do you socialize a puppy? It sounds like a lot of work!

Well, it is. But here’s our handy puppy socialization checklist where you’ll learn:

  • How to begin socializing your puppy
  • How to expand your puppy socialization territory
  • Interacting with other dogs for the first time (and many others)
  • What to expect when socializing your puppy in new locations
  • Meeting people with your puppy

Knowing how to socialize a puppy with other dogs is a vital part of giving your newly adopted puppy a long, full life.

READ MORE ABOUT SOCIALIZING YOUR PUPPY

Puppy Adoption Stress

A woman holding a white and black puppy on her shoulder.

You’ve found your ideal best friend on Petfinder or by perusing rescue shelters or online ads. No matter how you’ve decided on your puppy adoption, you’re about to seal the deal. But how do you do it without majorly stressing out your new puppy?

The adoption process can be rough on a four-legged young one. A new home, a new puppy parent, new smells, new…everything. It’s no wonder that puppy anxiety is a common occurrence during the puppy adoption period. Here are a few tips for easing the puppy anxiety generated by the adoption process.

  • Be available. Your puppy’s entire life has been upended! They need constant comfort, so if you can take a few days off work to ease their transition, we urge you to do so.
  • Give them a home within your home. Puppy anxiety can be lightened if they have a “safe space” to go when they’re feeling stressed out. Usually, this is their crate, but it can be a pile of blankets or some sort of hidey-hole that lets them get away from the commotion.
  • Puppy–proof the house. The last thing an anxiety-filled puppy needs is to constantly be told “No,” so try to pre-empt those situations by thoroughly going through your home and making sure that there’s nothing that your puppy can hurt or can hurt your puppy.
  • Ease them in slowly. Don’t inundate your puppy with new people, pets, sights and sounds. Let them explore at their own pace, meeting people and checking things out as they want to. A stressed-out puppy probably doesn’t want to meet a new cat, for instance.
  • Be positive. As with all things relating to puppy adoption, be positive at all times. Negative reinforcement only causes stress and anxiety, which is what we’re trying to avoid.

There are a million other ways that you can ease puppy anxiety during the pet adoption process. We don’t cover all of them, but here’s a comprehensive look at puppy anxiety and stress during the puppy adoption process.

READ MORE ABOUT EASING STRESS DURING PUPPY ADOPTION

Puppy Spay and Neutering

A group of puppies lying in the grass outside.

Neutering or spaying your puppy can be an important part of the puppy-having process. And while it can seem cruel or painful in the moment, spaying or neutering your puppy can provide a number of long-term health benefits.

In 2013, a review of American pet health records found that the states with the healthiest and longest-living pets also had the highest neutering and spaying rates. Neutered male dogs were found to live 18 percent longer than unneutered male dogs. For male dogs, neutering can contribute to a longer life span because it eliminates the possibility of testicular cancer and decreases the risk of enlarged prostate gland, prostatitis and perineal hernias. If you have a female puppy, spaying helps prevent breast cancer and uterine infections.

There are a number of other reasons to spay or neuter a puppy. Puppies who haven’t been neutered or spayed are more likely to misbehave, as in wander away, display aggression or mark their territory with urine. If you look at the bigger picture, spaying puppies and neutering puppies prevents unwanted litters, which helps reduce pet overpopulation.

If you’re wondering when to spay or neuter your puppy, there (surprise!) isn’t a single, universal answer, because growth rates vary with breed and size. The best time for surgery for your pup depends on factors such as breed, behavior, environment and so on — your vet can help you make this important decision. Small breed puppies are often spayed or neutered around six months of age, but it is not uncommon to hold off on surgery for large breed puppies until they are closer to a year old.

Puppy Adoption: A Little Prep, A Lifetime of Fun

A black puppy on a leash standing next to its owner outside.

Puppy adoption can be taxing at times, but it’s worth the effort, especially if you use the available tips for puppy adoption to start your journey together off right.

RELATED POST: A Taste of the Wild Guide to Pet Anxiety and Stress

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

National Barks: How to take your pet to Yellowstone

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Taste of the Wild

Welcome to National Barks, our semi-regular guide to taking your dog sightseeing in the national parks. Today, we visit Yellowstone National Park!

Yellowstone National Park is home to 2.2 million acres of mountains, lakes, geysers, forests, hot springs and canyons. This National Bark…um…we mean, National Park is also home to more than 200 species of wild animals.

The world’s first national park attracts millions of people and doggos each year. However, it’s vital to make note of Yellowstone’s necessary pet guidelines before you begin mapping out your trip. Park officials want to ensure you and your dog stay safe while touring.

Trip Timing

If you want Fido to join you in your travels, it’s best to visit Yellowstone National Park in the spring, summer or fall. Depending on your crowd preference, you’ll want to choose accordingly. June, July and August are Yellowstone National Park’s busiest months for visitors. Warmer weather means all the roads and facilities at the park are open, allowing tourists the chance to explore the park to the fullest.

The park is typically less crowded in mid-April to May, and September to October. Most roads are usually open during these months, but there is a chance for winter weather so be sure to watch the forecast and plan accordingly. Another benefit of planning around May is the chance to see baby wildlife and blossoming wildflowers. Many animals during late April or May (as temperatures are warming) will migrate within the park so you’ll likely see more animals crossing roads and walkways during this timeframe.

The least favorable times to see Yellowstone are November through the beginning of April because most roads, restaurants, campgrounds and visitor centers are closed for winter. Winter visitors mostly book guided, one-of-a-kind experiences during these months — something Fido would not be able to take part in.

Campground Reservations Are a Must

Pets are not allowed in any of the hotels or lodges at Yellowstone National Park. When making your travel arrangements, you will want to stay at one of 12 campgrounds in the park. All are dog friendly.

Campground registration opens on the fifth of each month, 13 months in advance of your travel timeframe. Yes, that means you’ll be able to make a reservation for August 2024 in July 2023. And during those summer months, you really will need to book that far in advance to secure your registration.

Once at the campsite, remember that you are in bear country. Store your food and other scented items in the bear boxes provided at each reservation area, and keep your pet on a leash and within sight. You must clean up after your dog and properly dispose of pet waste as well. These rules prevent wildlife from being lured close to your sleeping grounds.

Take a Hike

Get ready to stretch those legs after driving around to find the perfect lookout area! Dogs are allowed to roam alongside you on a leash (6 feet or less in length) in parking lots, public areas and within 100 feet of any road. Park rules state that a pet must never be unaccompanied, even if it’s only for a few moments.

Pets are not allowed on geyser boardwalks, trails or Yellowstone’s back country. Why is your dog not allowed in these locations?

  1. Geysers are a must for humans to see, but too dangerous for domesticated animals. Both humans and animals have been severely burned or even killed by a geyser. When geysers erupt the temperature is about 200°
  2. Bears, wolves and other wildlife located deeper in Yellowstone’s terrain prey on domesticated animals. Your dog may be able to outrun a bear, but your dog could lead wildlife straight back to you—a chance none of us at Taste of the Wild or the park rangers at Yellowstone want you to take.
  3. Diseases can be spread from Yellowstone’s wildlife to pets, and vice versa. Mange, parvo and distemper are just a few highly contagious diseases wild animals can transmit to your dog.

Riding in the Car

Yellowstone is humungous and often requires riding in the car for long periods of time, which might come as a surprise to first-time visitors, but it’s part of the experience for you and your dog. The park is spread out across 3,471 square miles with five different entrances to choose from. How much of the park you’d like to see will determine how far you’ll be driving. Consider it a road trip when it comes to knowing how comfortable your dog needs to be in the car.

Now, as you travel along Yellowstone National Park’s windy roads, make note that you are not alone out on the pavement. Even though the speed limits are low, make sure that your pooch is secured inside the vehicle and not hanging out the window. Not only could you encounter traffic jams or slow-moving drivers soaking up the scenery, but wildlife could dart out in front of your car at any moment. Enticing!

Remain flexible and account for extra time spent out on the road. This means you’ll also want to pack extra food and water for both you and Fido. And be sure to make extra pitstops along the way for stretching the paws and bathroom breaks. Remember to bag and dispose of pet waste, too!

Altitude Sickness

Pay attention to how your dog is doing on your travels to Yellowstone National Park, and while traveling around the park. Along the way does it seem like they are struggling with the elevation changes? Your dog may need to slowly work up to a higher elevation. Each pet’s needs are unique, and you know your furry companion best.

If you notice the following symptoms, be sure to offer your pet water and gradually work your way to a lower elevation as soon as possible. They’re likely experiencing altitude sickness.

  • Hard time breathing
  • Vomiting/nausea
  • Panting or drooling more than normal
  • Bloody nose
  • Decreased appetite
  • Increased heart rate
  • Swelling of face, limbs
  • Passed out

Get those plans made now for the year ahead! Yellowstone National Park has a lot to offer you and your dog. We know we’ve run through a lot of rules, tips and tricks for your travels to the park, but all of it is to make sure you both stay safe while having the time of your lives. You and Fido will fall in love with the sights, sounds and wonders the park has to offer. Yellowstone, here you come!

RELATED POST: A TASTE OF THE WILD GUIDE TO VACATIONING WITH YOUR PET

Tips for Your Puppy’s First Week at Home

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It’s puppy time! Your new puppy is here and ready to explore their furever home. But are you ready for puppy’s first week at home? You’ve got food bowls, chew toys and a cozy bed, but what should you do now that they’re here? We have some tips to make your puppy’s transition to their new home as safe and as stress-free as possible.

Safe and Supervised Sniffing

One of the first things your new puppy is probably going to do is smell everything. Puppies are born deaf and their eyes are closed for the first 2 to 3 weeks, but that nose works hard from day 1 and doesn’t stop. Your curious puppy will want to explore every nook and cranny in your house and that may include places they shouldn’t be and objects they shouldn’t be touching.

It’s best to puppy-proof your house before you welcome your new puppy home. That way you know the house is (relatively) safe. There are always going to be things that you didn’t think they could get into but they somehow find a way. So for the first few days, supervise their exploration time so you can watch out for hazards that you may have missed.

Some items that should be kept out of a puppy’s reach include electrical cords, sharp objects and anything else puppies shouldn’t be chewing on (e.g., stinky trash, your fluffy pillow, the TV remote, the cat’s food bowl). Make sure you put away anything toxic to dogs like medicines, cleaning chemicals, poisonous plants, human-only food (e.g., grapes, onions, chocolate) and anything else that might harm a nosy puppy.

Help Make Nighttime Less Scary

Have you ever stayed in a new place (e.g., hotel, cabin, friend’s house) and woken up in the middle of the night and forgotten where you were? Scary, right? Think about how scary a new home would be for a little pup (especially at night) with all of those strange new sounds, smells and surroundings.

Plus, depending on where you adopted your new puppy, they were probably with their mom, siblings or had other dogs around them that they knew, and now they’re alone or with unfamiliar dogs. According to VetBabble, when puppies are separated from the pack for the first time, their natural instinct is to be as loud as possible. So it’s likely that your new pup is going to cry (howl, whine or whimper) for a few days or even a few weeks when they’re alone.

You can make nighttime a little more comforting for your puppy by choosing a quiet area of your house for their bed. Make them a snuggly bed in a crate so they will have a secure space to make their own — and keep them out of mischief while you’re asleep. Putting a piece of your clothing near their crate can be comforting for them, plus it will help with bonding. Just make sure it’s far enough away that they don’t use it as a chew toy. You could also consider placing the crate in your bedroom, but if you would like your puppy to sleep in your bed, hold off until they’re potty trained — because, well, you get it.

Spend Time with Your New BFF

Nighttime isn’t the only part of the day that can be scary for a puppy — being left alone during the day can be worrying and overwhelming for your puppy, too. If possible, schedule some vacation days for the first few days that your pup is adjusting to their new home. It will help with bonding, and your puppy will have a friend with them while they’re exploring their new digs. If you can’t be home with them all day, see if a family member or a friend can stay with your puppy, or consider hiring a pet sitter while your puppy is settling in.

Practice Alone Time

Being left alone is going to happen eventually, though. Even if you work from home, there will still be times when you need to go out and you can’t take your little buddy with you. It’s important that your new sidekick learns how to handle being alone and that it isn’t something to worry about.

Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-ka) and Certified Separation Anxiety Trainer (CSAT) Shoshi Parks, PhD, has some useful tips on how to help your puppy become comfortable with being alone. First of all, place your puppy in their crate (or other confined space) with a high-value treat or toy and leave the house for five minutes. You’ll probably hear some barking or whining which is normal. Quickly come back in when there’s silence. It’s important to wait for a break in their barking otherwise they’ll learn that making noise is what makes you come back. Once they’re used to you being away for five minutes, try extending the time little by little.

Eventually your pup should learn that being alone isn’t too bad and that you do come back. Separation anxiety can occur in dogs of all ages, so it’s a good idea to start teaching them that alone time isn’t bad during your puppy’s first week at home.

Time to Go Potty. Again.

Stock up on cleaning supplies because you’re gonna need ’em. A lot. Potty training is another thing that should be started the day you bring your puppy home. But it’s going to take some time and quite a few potty accidents before they get the hang of it — which probably won’t be until they’re around 12 to 16 weeks old.

You can help reduce the number of accidents by taking your puppy on potty breaks every two to four hours — including in the middle of night, if needed. Crate training can also help with potty training because dogs are naturally averse to soiling their “den,” so they will go potty somewhere else. By taking them out of their crate and then immediately outside or to the designated potty place inside, they will learn that that’s where they need to go when they need to go. Eventually they will realize that your whole house is their “den” and not a place to go potty.

Stick to a Schedule

Consistent messaging and keeping to a routine are really important for helping your puppy adjust to their new home and family. Stick to the same schedule (as much as possible) for mealtimes, bedtime, play sessions and potty breaks. And if you have rules that your puppy needs to follow, make sure all of your household is enforcing the rules. If pupster isn’t allowed on the couch, you shouldn’t pull them up for a quick snuggle. It will just confuse them when they get in trouble for jumping onto the couch the next day.

Feeding Your Puppy

For mealtimes, veterinary nutritionists recommend feeding puppies at least two meals and possibly three or four meals daily until your puppy is 4 to 6 months old. Once they’re 6 months old you can stick with two meals a day, although some large and giant breeds may benefit from three meals a day. Feeding the right food is important to ensure your puppy grows into a healthy dog at the correct rate. Your veterinarian can help you determine the best food for your puppy and how much they should be eating.

The first week with a new puppy can be overwhelming and a little scary for both of you. But spending quality time with your puppy and setting up a routine will help everyone adjust in no time. Don’t forget to schedule your pup’s first visit with their veterinarian, too!

POST: Socialize Your Puppy Now for a Friendlier Tomorrow

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Should You Really Not Pet On-Duty Service Dogs?

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If you see a dog where dogs generally aren’t allowed, chances are it’s a service dog, and chances are that it’s on the job.

We get it: When you see an adorable dog while you’re shopping, running errands or doing something else where seeing cuddly dogs isn’t the norm, it’s hard to resist the urge to pet it, despite the clearly labeled vest that indicates that they’re on the job and off limits. That dog is providing valuable and necessary service to someone in need. We stress that if you notice the dog in question is a service animal, do not pet the canine or make eye contact with it. You shouldn’t talk to the dog or wave at it either. Avoid distracting a service animal at all costs.

Service animals are not pets. They’re often considered a healthcare option. One small distraction could be the difference between the dog staying alert to assist its owner or that owner’s safety being risked. So when you see the ”SERVICE DOG” or “WORKING DOG, DO NOT PET,” indicator, please take it seriously!

How do you know if a dog is a service animal?

Most service animals wear special collars, vests or harnesses. Service dogs have received specialized training to perform certain tasks for an individual with a disability — including physical, sensory, psychiatric, intellectual or other mental disabilities. This specialized training is what sets service animals apart from therapy dogs, emotional support animals and pets.

If you watch a service dog’s behavior from afar, you’ll notice that they tend to have impeccable manners, they appear calm, and they won’t seek attention. They’re meticulous employees operating efficiently with their handler. You’ll probably never see a service dog pulling on its leash or chasing a wayward squirrel – during working hours, anyway!

Service animals are always on call.

Being able to rely on a service animal can provide great comfort to those who need the trained dog’s assistance. Even if you think a service dog is doing “nothing” at that moment, you can rest assured that the canine is always providing essential care. The dog may be helping the owner keep their balance. They may be on high alert to predict a seizure before it occurs so the owner can take necessary precautions. Or they could be assisting an owner with a hearing impairment to navigate busy aisles at a grocery store. The list goes on with ways a service animal could be helping their owner, which could be invisible to other members of society.

It’s against the law to interfere with service dogs.

The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) of 1990 protects the rights of people with disabilities to have their service animals by their sides. Most states take it a step further and have some laws in place to punish those who interfere with a service dog’s duties. Yes, you read that correctly. Each state has its own laws on how they handle individuals who interfere with a service animal doing its job, and punishment ranges from paying a hefty fine to being charged with a felony. So bottom line, do not interfere with a service dog’s duties.

How should you react around a service dog?

Rather than engage with the animal, contain your excitement. Give the dog and its owner space. Service dogs are trained to tune out commotion, but it can still be difficult for them to concentrate if you are persistent in trying to distract them. They are still dogs, after all.

Second, be courteous of the service dog’s owner by not asking questions. The owner may not feel comfortable talking to strangers about the service dog or their disability. Respect their privacy and resist the urge for initiating such conversations.

Are there any exceptions to this advice?

Yes, there is one exception. If a service dog ever approaches you without its owner, this is the only time to scrap the guidance above and follow that dog! A service dog without its owner is seeking help. Follow the dog, identify the situation at hand, and if the owner needs medical assistance, call 911.

Long story short: Let service dogs perform their service, and we’ll all be better off!

How to Choose the Best Food for Your Growing Puppy

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The right nutrition is essential for keeping your puppy healthy, but if you search online for “What’s the best puppy food?” you’re going to get a LOT of options. You want the very best for your puppy to ensure they grow up healthy and strong, so how do you choose which food is actually the “best” for them?

Puppies have different nutrient requirements compared to adult dogs, and all of those nutrients have specific roles in fueling the needs of an energetic and fast-growing puppy. We’ll discuss why particular nutrients are important for puppies and explain which statements you should be looking for on the dog food label to determine the “best” food for your pup.

Grow Puppy, Grow!

You bring home your new puppy and — Bam! — a few short months later they’re not your tiny little puppy anymore. The first three to six months of a pup’s life is the most rapid growth period, and most puppies (except giant breeds) will reach 80 percent of their adult weight between 4.5 and 8 months of age.

All this growth is why puppies have nutrient needs that are different from adult dogs, who need nutrients only for maintenance (unless they’re pregnant or lactating). Maintenance requirements means adult dogs have enough nutrients to satisfy normal tissue repair and physical activity, and if they have any extra energy (calories) left over, it’s stored as fat.

Growing Puppies Need More Nutrients

Compared to adult dogs, puppies need more of most of the essential nutrients, and like adults, their health depends on receiving those nutrients in the correct amounts and proportions. Nutritional factors that are particularly important for puppies include energy, protein, calcium, phosphorus, DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and antioxidants. Let’s dive deeper into why those nutritional factors are important for puppies.

Energy Is Your Puppy’s Fuel

It doesn’t matter whether your pup is a shiba inu or a Saint Bernard, the amount of energy they need for growth will be greater than at any other life stage except lactation. After weaning, puppies need twice as much energy per pound of body weight as adult dogs of the same weight. As your puppy’s growth rate starts to decline, their energy requirement will also start to decrease (usually around 6 months of age).

But be careful… too much of a good thing can lead to a chubby puppy. Your puppy needs to have their energy needs met for optimal growth (not maximal growth), so it’s important not to overfeed them. If they eat too many calories, it can lead to an increased growth rate and an overweight or obese puppy, which in turn could become an overweight or obese adult dog with an increased risk of health issues.

Protein Is Vital for a Healthy Puppy

Protein, which is found in every cell of your puppy’s body, is important for building and maintaining muscle, bone, cartilage, skin and multiple organs. Puppies need more protein than adult dogs because puppies are growing all of those protein-dependent body parts. Protein also supplies the amino acids necessary to support a heathy immune system and to synthesize hormones, antibodies and enzymes.

The protein in your puppy’s food should be highly digestible to ensure all essential amino acids are delivered to and used by your puppy’s body for growth and development. Protein-containing ingredients in pet food include meat muscles (e.g., bison, venison, beef, lamb), meat meal (e.g., chicken meal, duck meal, lamb meal), fish, fish meal (e.g., salmon meal), eggs and ancient grains (e.g., chia seed, millet, quinoa and grain sorghum).

A Healthy Skeleton Needs Calcium and Phosphorus

Calcium and phosphorus partner together to keep your pup’s bones and teeth healthy. Nearly all the calcium and most of the phosphorus in your puppy’s body are found in their teeth and skeleton. Puppy foods have slightly higher levels of calcium and phosphorus to promote a skeletal growth rate that is appropriate for a puppy’s size.

Calcium requirements vary based on breed size. It’s important that large- and giant-breed puppies have the proper calcium-to-phosphorus ratio in their food, as they are especially prone to developmental bone issues.

DHA Helps Your Puppy’s Brain and Vision

The omega-3 fatty acid DHA helps support brain and vision development in your puppy. DHA is found in mother’s milk, and studies have shown that the benefits of DHA in the diet continue after weaning. Research has also shown that trainability can improve when DHA is included in a puppy’s food.

Antioxidants Support Immunity and Overall Health

Antioxidants like vitamin E, beta-carotene, vitamin C, zinc and selenium support your puppy’s developing immune system and may help it respond to vaccinations. Antioxidants also help protect your pup’s body from the damaging effects of free radicals. Some of the ingredients in pet food that are sources of antioxidants include chia seed, quinoa, blueberries, raspberries, tomato and sweet potato.

Look at the Pet Food Label

As you can see, growing puppies have very different nutrient requirements as compared to adult dogs. The “best” food for your puppy is one that is a complete and balanced diet and displays the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) nutritional adequacy statement for “growth” or “all life stages.” If your puppy is a large breed, make sure the AAFCO all life stages statement also says, “including growth of large size dogs (70 lb. or more as an adult).” These statements ensure your puppy’s nutritional needs will be met by the nutrients in the food.

With so many choices available, choosing the right food for your puppy can be overwhelming. If you need help, your veterinarian can determine which foods meet the nutritional needs of your puppy. Then you just have to work out which flavor they like best!

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

How Not to Pet Your Pet

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Head, shoulders, knees and noooo! As much as your pet probably likes all sorts of snuggles, it’s possible to pet your furry companion in areas they don’t like and invoke the claws, growls or side eye. Cats and dogs have spots on their body they prefer you pet over others — and it’s worth noting cats might have different “don’t pet” areas than dogs. Here are some tips to make sure you have petting down pat. Just remember that every pet is different, and your best bet is to know their body language for signs of discomfort.

How to Best Pet Your Dog

Research shows petting your pup boosts their level of happiness (and maybe even yours). Cue the TikTok audio, “I’m just a happy, happy dog,” as you bend down to their level, extend your hand and let your canine come to you. Your pet’s body language will speak volumes to let you know if now is the right time for all the pets.

A dog that comes your way when you extend your hand wants to be petted. If their eyes look happy and their tail is wagging, this is another indicator it’s petting time! Pet, pat or scratch your doggo, going with the fur, not against it. They don’t want that bed head look when you’re done petting them.

If your pupper starts to put space between you, begins licking their lips or raising their paw, this indicates now is not the right time for petting. In addition, a dog that is sleeping or playing will likely not want to be interrupted for petting time.

Animals not wanting to be petted is nothing to take personally. If you move forward with unwanted petting, you increase your chances of being growled at or bitten. Therefore, it’s best to listen to what your dog is telling you.

What areas should you focus your petting on?

An infographic detailing which spots on a dog are okay to pet and which spots are not okay.

Not all dogs are the same, but typically canines prefer to be petted on their head, neck, chest, belly and middle back. When you find their sweet spot, your dog might start to kick their leg with joy. And if you roll over a spot that they don’t want you to touch, you’ll notice a shift in the way they respond. Areas to typically avoid petting include their tail, legs and paws. The lower back is a “maybe,” so pet this area with caution.

How to Pet Your Cat

Cats can be a little more standoffish than dogs, but that doesn’t mean your feline doesn’t want to be petted. They love attention from their people, as well! You might need to be a bit more in tune with your cat’s body language to know how and when they want to be petted.

You’ll also want to note that contrary to dogs, cats do not believe in the phrase “Give me all the pets!” Typically, cats prefer to be petted in smaller increments of time than your needy, needy dog.

Prior to petting, be sure you have your cat’s attention. Do not sneak up for a surprise petting. This could result in a draw of the claws. Let your cat sniff your hand or perk up with excitement.

Next, gently pet your cat, moving in the same direction as their fur, just like we recommended for doggos. If they begin to lean into your hand for more pets (bunting), relax their posture, knead or purr, you know you’re on the right track.

If your cat gently nips or paws at you during a petting session, you might need to readjust your touch. You might be petting too firmly. You might need to scratch behind their ears instead of petting their belly. Or they might want to be patted on the lower back opposed to just pets on the head. Adjust your level of firmness and location of petting until you find the sweet spot for your furry feline.

Aggressive jerks of their body or head can indicate your cat does not want to be petted. Raising a paw to bat at you, hissing and meowing in an unfriendly tone also indicate it is time to step away. Your cat will give you direct cues so you know what your next move should be. Listen to their desires — even if it means resisting the urge to pet them at that moment.

What areas should you focus your petting on?

An infographic detailing which spots on a cat are okay to pet and which spots are not okay.

While it’s true that each cat has their own wants and needs, studies show there are general areas that cats prefer to be petted. Felines favor being petted near their scent glands — all around their ears, on their cheeks and under their chin. Another highly preferred area is the lower back right before you reach their tail. The rest of their back and their sides are good spots to pet, but they don’t go as gaga over these locations.

Belly rubs are iffy territory. We say lean into this spot with caution. Some cats say, “Yes, please” while others say, “No, thank you!” Steer clear of the tail, legs, paws and toe beans for pets. Cats typically don’t prefer to be petted there.

When following the advice above, hone in on how your fluffy friend responds to touch. Adjust your petting techniques and the length of time you’re petting them to meet your animal’s needs. The right form of petting strengthens your bond with Mittens and Fido, and in the process, petting can boost your overall mood as well. A win-win all around!

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