Can My Dog Eat That? Popcorn

Posted on April 6, 2023 - 2:40 pm by
Can my dog eat popcorn? Yes!

Welcome to “Can My Dog Eat That?,” our series that answers some obvious (and not-so-obvious) questions about what your dog can and can’t safely eat. Today we answer the question: “Can dogs eat popcorn? Read on!

It’s movie night! You’ve got the latest release on pause, ready to go. You’ve dimmed the lights and grabbed the blankets ready for snuggles with your canine bestie. The last, but essential, part of your movie night preparations is the popcorn. You’ve popped a big bowl, but on the way to the couch, you trip over your dog’s ball and some popcorn falls to the floor.

Before you can say “No people food!” your canine vacuum cleaner has sucked it all up and is looking very proud of themselves for helping you clean. But now you’re thinking, “Can my dog eat popcorn?” It’s a valid question that’s probably been asked by many pet parents preparing for movie night with their canine couch companion.

So, Can Dogs Eat Popcorn?

The answer is yes, depending on the amount and the toppings. Air-popped popcorn that doesn’t have any salt, butter or other toppings on it is generally safe for your dog.

As an occasional treat, plain popcorn is great, as long as you keep to the guideline of feeding no more than 10 percent of your dog’s total daily calorie intake as treats. Plain air-popped popcorn is also a good alternative to traditional dog treats if your dog has chronic kidney disease or another health issue that requires them to limit their protein and sodium intake.

Popcorn does have some nutritional benefits for dogs, like fiber and some minerals and vitamins. However, your dog should already be getting the right nutrients in the right amounts from a complete and balanced dog food, so the popcorn nutrients aren’t really needed.

You do need to make sure you clear the popcorn bowl of kernels that didn’t pop. Dogs can’t digest these and they could get stuck in their teeth, which can be painful. If you have a toy breed, unpopped kernels could also be a choking hazard for them.

Plain Popcorn Only

Popcorn isn’t toxic to dogs, but it does become a problem when you start adding toppings to it. Butter and salt are not healthy for dogs. Let’s be honest, they’re not really healthy for people either — but they make the popcorn sooo tasty. Butter, oil and salt can cause your dog to have an upset gastrointestinal tract (think vomiting and diarrhea) and all of that delicious fat can stack on the pounds if your dog is eating buttered popcorn regularly. Eating too many high-fat foods can also increase your dog’s risk of developing pancreatitis. If your dog happens to “vacuum” up a few pieces from the floor, they will probably be OK. Just make sure they don’t have access to the whole bowl.

Sweet Toppings Are a No-No, Too!

The oh-so-sweet toppings for kettle corn, cinnamon-sugar popcorn and caramel popcorn can also switch popcorn over to the “That’s not good for you” list with all of their sugar content. And you should definitely avoid feeding popcorn to your dog if it’s coated in an ingredient that is toxic to dogs, like chocolate or xylitol (artificial sweetener).

So, if you’re wanting to share some popcorn with your dog next movie night, it’s generally OK to make them a little bowl of plain, air-popped popcorn. Just make sure they don’t get any of the delicious buttery popcorn — that’s for people only.

If you’re curious about your dog’s ability to eat other crunchy snacks, bookmark our blog!

Interior graphic with text that reads ‘Can my dog eat popcorn? Yes (if it's plain)’.

RELATED POST: Can My Dog Eat That: A Guide by Taste of the Wild

Behind the Breed: Australian Shepherd

Posted on March 30, 2023 - 2:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild

First things first: Australian shepherds aren’t exactly Australian. They actually hail from the Basque region of Spain where, in the 1800s, their original owners, Basque shepherds, took the dogs to their pastures in the Australian Outback, where they gained a popular following. As news of these remarkable, energetic herders spread around the world, ranchers, most notably in California, started importing the dogs to work on their ranches, where they perfected today’s standard of the breed. So you could say that Aussies, as they’re affectionately known, have some serious mileage on them.

Hard Workin’ Tricksters

The breed gained popularity by performing both herding feats and tricks at traveling rodeos. In fact, in the 1950s and 1960s, Jay Sizzler, a popular rodeo owner and performer popularized his touring rodeo by promoting it with his trained Aussies. The breed’s instinctive need to have a job quickly made them popular as seeing eye dogs, hearing dogs, search and rescue dogs, and even explosive detection dogs. Aussies are an intelligent, medium-sized breed that possess strong herding instincts (hence the name). They love stimulation and being a part of the daily grind, often enjoying car rides and being with their owners.

Australian Shepherd Breed Standards

Australian shepherds come in four “acceptable” colors by breed standards: black, blue merle, red and red merle. Their outer coats are usually a moderate length and course, while the undercoat is soft. Their tails are either naturally bobbed or docked by their owners; and their ears break forward and over, giving them a friendly look. Male Aussies are 50 to 65 pounds and about 20 to 23 inches at the withers, while females are slightly smaller at 40 to 55 pounds and 18 to 21 inches at the shoulder. Their eyes can be any color combination, and often Aussies will have two different colored eyes. Many Aussies have pale blue eyes, which might’ve endeared them to Native Americans, who felt the breed was sacred.

Busy Family Pets

Aussies definitely need jobs; being productive is genetically engrained into the blueprint of their DNA. If not stimulated, Australian shepherds will act out. Giving them jobs is important, and frequent exercise is required; so this pet is not for couch potatoes. But given a good vocation, these dogs can be wonderful family pets. They’re smart and easy to train. Just keep them busy or they’ll wear you out!

An interior graphic detailing four quick facts about Australian shepherds.
RELATED POST: Behind the Breed: Shiba Inu

Puppy Adoption: A Taste of the Wild Guide

Posted on March 24, 2023 - 2:39 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Puppy adoption can be the best time of your life and certainly the best time (so far!) of your puppy’s life. But the process isn’t without stress. Questions and uncertainty abound, especially if this is your first time adopting a puppy. What kind of puppy food should you get? Is puppy food actually that different from adult dog food? When should puppy potty training happen, and how do you handle the inevitable messes? What about leash training and socialization? You’ll likely have dozens of questions about puppy adoption, which is why we’ve assembled a number of tips for puppy adoption to help you and your new pal get off on the right…paw.

The Building Blocks of Your Puppy’s Diet

A group of puppies eating food from metal bowls on the floor.

One of the more important things you need right away is a solid understanding of puppy food nutrition. An often-raised question is “Do I really need puppy food?” and the answer is always “You really need puppy food,” or at least an all-life-stages food that is appropriate for puppies. So, when choosing a recipe, make sure you look for a “puppy diet” food or that the bag or can is very clearly labeled as “for puppies.”

Building the right nutrition into their diet now will set your puppy up for long and healthy journey into adulthood. Protein and fat are absolutely vital to your pup’s growing body, so look for those levels specifically before making your choice. But how much protein does a puppy need? There’s no exact answer to that question, since puppies vary wildly in size from breed to breed and age to age and so do their needs regarding puppy food nutrition. VCA Animal Hospitals recommend that the protein range for optimal puppy growth is 22–32 percent for dry puppy food.

To make things a bit more confusing, small breed and large breed puppies have their own specific requirements, partly because small breed puppies tend to have a higher metabolism and need more calories to keep up with their higher energy levels. Long story short: Consult with your veterinarian before choosing your puppy food. In the meantime, you can read our blog about puppy food nutrition, where we discuss:

  • The difference between puppy food and all-life-stages dog food
  • Why nutrients matter in a puppy-diet food
  • Where to find portion sizes

Getting your puppy started off properly from a nutritional standpoint will set up a lifetime of success and happiness for both of you.

READ MORE ABOUT THE BUILDING BLOCKS OF PUPPY NUTRITION

It’s Go Time: Cleaning Up When Potty Training Your Puppy

A brown puppy lying on a pee pad on the floor.

Puppy potty training. It isn’t always easy, and it will most certainly be messy at times. Every puppy is different, so every puppy potty training timeline will be different. Your pup goes on their own schedule, especially at the beginning of their potty training.

To avoid puppy messes as much as possible, here are some tried-and-true puppy potty training tips.

  • Start early. You can “officially” start potty training your pup as soon as you bring them home. Invest in some pee pads and get to work!
  • Be positive. That old “rub their nose in it” method has no place in any civilized puppy home, and it probably never should have been used. This is because it simply doesn’t work! Scolding, yelling or rubbing their nose in the spot only breeds confusion. “Am I not supposed to poop at all?” Instead, praise your pooch for doing what they need to do while immediately taking them outside, or wherever the desired target location is.
  • Set an indoor location. Unless you are on a 24/7 vigil, your puppy will go indoors. But you can control where they go and set expectations that there are designated puppy potty zones. This is where pee pads come in handy. If they know that they can go only on a pee pad, soon that pee pad will become “the grass,” and they’ll understand.
  • Crate training is puppy potty training. Dogs really try to avoid going to the bathroom where they sleep, so crate training doubles as potty training. This isn’t to say that they won’t have accidents in their crate; but most pups will hold it as long as they possibly can while crated.
  • Stick to a routine. Dogs are creatures of habit, so turn puppy potty breaks into a habit. If you take them outside at random, they won’t learn when it’s time to go. Eliminate the time variable and eventually they’ll eliminate…on time!

No matter how thorough your puppy potty training methods are, there will be accidents. And that’s OK! When it’s go time and they don’t make it to the pee pad or to the front yard, you’ll be prepared, thanks to our puppy potty training cleanup tips. We’ll tell you how to block smells and stains from your temporarily thwarted puppy potty training methods, and offer up some tips and tricks for easy cleanup.

Together, we’ll get through this. It’s go time!

READ MORE ABOUT CLEANING UP WHEN POTTY TRAINING A PUPPY

How to Train Your Puppy to Walk on a Leash

A black and tan dog walking on a leash outside.

Get outside and unleash fun by starting puppy leash training. You can start leash training a puppy as soon as you bring them home. All you need to do to start leash training your puppy is to acquire the correct size harness and leash length. Most leashes and harnesses have height/weight requirements right on the package, but you can ask your veterinarian for advice, too. Once you have that ironed out, let the puppy leash training commence.

Follow our comprehensive blog about leash training your puppy, where you’ll learn:

  • How to get your puppy comfortable with their leash
  • How to practice walking on the leash before venturing out for the real thing
  • When it’s time to test out your skills in a new environment

With these tips about puppy leash training, you’ll be going for multiple walks a day in no time.

READ MORE ABOUT HOW TO TRAIN YOUR PUPPY TO WALK ON A LEASH

Puppy Safety in the Summer

A wet puppy sitting in the sand at the beach.

Summer is never too far away. If you have a new puppy, summer is either happening or about to happen or happened not too long ago! Whatever time of year it is, you’ll need summer safety tips for your new puppy sooner or later. Why not now?

Here are a few basic tips for a new puppy’s journey through the dog days of our favorite season.

  • Don’t stay out too long! When the sun is beating down, 15–20 minutes is more than enough. When in doubt about your puppy’s safety, look for excess panting or lethargy. If that’s happening, head for the AC!
  • Stay inside! When it’s blazing out there, remember that you don’t have to go outside to have fun.
  • Never leave your puppy in a parked car. Seriously. Just don’t do it.
  • Know your puppy! Every dog has different preferences and, more importantly, tolerances. If your puppy is uncomfortable in the summer sun, get out of it!

If you’re wondering how hot is too hot to walk dogs, the American Kennel Club suggests that when the air is 85 degrees F or higher, the pavement is simply too hot for your pup’s feet without protection. But again, your puppy may be uncomfortable at a cooler temperature, so your best barometer for puppy safety in the summer sun is…your puppy! Pay attention to their needs and wants, and you’ll rarely go wrong.

READ MORE SUMMER SAFETY TIPS FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY

Socialize Your Puppy Now for a Friendlier Tomorrow

Two dogs playing near water.

Wondering when to socialize a puppy? The answer is “right now!”

If you’re engaging in leash training your puppy, socialization is a natural next step, and builds a foundation of friendliness. Socializing your puppy between 7 and 16 weeks of age can set them up to get along with everyone for the rest of their lives.

But mostly, you want to get them used to other dogs so you can traverse trails and do the dog parks without worry. So how do you socialize a puppy? It sounds like a lot of work!

Well, it is. But here’s our handy puppy socialization checklist where you’ll learn:

  • How to begin socializing your puppy
  • How to expand your puppy socialization territory
  • Interacting with other dogs for the first time (and many others)
  • What to expect when socializing your puppy in new locations
  • Meeting people with your puppy

Knowing how to socialize a puppy with other dogs is a vital part of giving your newly adopted puppy a long, full life.

READ MORE ABOUT SOCIALIZING YOUR PUPPY

Puppy Adoption Stress

A woman holding a white and black puppy on her shoulder.

You’ve found your ideal best friend on Petfinder or by perusing rescue shelters or online ads. No matter how you’ve decided on your puppy adoption, you’re about to seal the deal. But how do you do it without majorly stressing out your new puppy?

The adoption process can be rough on a four-legged young one. A new home, a new puppy parent, new smells, new…everything. It’s no wonder that puppy anxiety is a common occurrence during the puppy adoption period. Here are a few tips for easing the puppy anxiety generated by the adoption process.

  • Be available. Your puppy’s entire life has been upended! They need constant comfort, so if you can take a few days off work to ease their transition, we urge you to do so.
  • Give them a home within your home. Puppy anxiety can be lightened if they have a “safe space” to go when they’re feeling stressed out. Usually, this is their crate, but it can be a pile of blankets or some sort of hidey-hole that lets them get away from the commotion.
  • Puppy–proof the house. The last thing an anxiety-filled puppy needs is to constantly be told “No,” so try to pre-empt those situations by thoroughly going through your home and making sure that there’s nothing that your puppy can hurt or can hurt your puppy.
  • Ease them in slowly. Don’t inundate your puppy with new people, pets, sights and sounds. Let them explore at their own pace, meeting people and checking things out as they want to. A stressed-out puppy probably doesn’t want to meet a new cat, for instance.
  • Be positive. As with all things relating to puppy adoption, be positive at all times. Negative reinforcement only causes stress and anxiety, which is what we’re trying to avoid.

There are a million other ways that you can ease puppy anxiety during the pet adoption process. We don’t cover all of them, but here’s a comprehensive look at puppy anxiety and stress during the puppy adoption process.

READ MORE ABOUT EASING STRESS DURING PUPPY ADOPTION

Puppy Spay and Neutering

A group of puppies lying in the grass outside.

Neutering or spaying your puppy can be an important part of the puppy-having process. And while it can seem cruel or painful in the moment, spaying or neutering your puppy can provide a number of long-term health benefits.

In 2013, a review of American pet health records found that the states with the healthiest and longest-living pets also had the highest neutering and spaying rates. Neutered male dogs were found to live 18 percent longer than unneutered male dogs. For male dogs, neutering can contribute to a longer life span because it eliminates the possibility of testicular cancer and decreases the risk of enlarged prostate gland, prostatitis and perineal hernias. If you have a female puppy, spaying helps prevent breast cancer and uterine infections.

There are a number of other reasons to spay or neuter a puppy. Puppies who haven’t been neutered or spayed are more likely to misbehave, as in wander away, display aggression or mark their territory with urine. If you look at the bigger picture, spaying puppies and neutering puppies prevents unwanted litters, which helps reduce pet overpopulation.

If you’re wondering when to spay or neuter your puppy, there (surprise!) isn’t a single, universal answer, because growth rates vary with breed and size. The best time for surgery for your pup depends on factors such as breed, behavior, environment and so on — your vet can help you make this important decision. Small breed puppies are often spayed or neutered around six months of age, but it is not uncommon to hold off on surgery for large breed puppies until they are closer to a year old.

Puppy Adoption: A Little Prep, A Lifetime of Fun

A black puppy on a leash standing next to its owner outside.

Puppy adoption can be taxing at times, but it’s worth the effort, especially if you use the available tips for puppy adoption to start your journey together off right.

RELATED POST: A Taste of the Wild Guide to Pet Anxiety and Stress

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

National Barks: How to take your pet to Yellowstone

Posted on March 23, 2023 - 2:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Welcome to National Barks, our semi-regular guide to taking your dog sightseeing in the national parks. Today, we visit Yellowstone National Park!

Yellowstone National Park is home to 2.2 million acres of mountains, lakes, geysers, forests, hot springs and canyons. This National Bark…um…we mean, National Park is also home to more than 200 species of wild animals.

The world’s first national park attracts millions of people and doggos each year. However, it’s vital to make note of Yellowstone’s necessary pet guidelines before you begin mapping out your trip. Park officials want to ensure you and your dog stay safe while touring.

Trip Timing

If you want Fido to join you in your travels, it’s best to visit Yellowstone National Park in the spring, summer or fall. Depending on your crowd preference, you’ll want to choose accordingly. June, July and August are Yellowstone National Park’s busiest months for visitors. Warmer weather means all the roads and facilities at the park are open, allowing tourists the chance to explore the park to the fullest.

The park is typically less crowded in mid-April to May, and September to October. Most roads are usually open during these months, but there is a chance for winter weather so be sure to watch the forecast and plan accordingly. Another benefit of planning around May is the chance to see baby wildlife and blossoming wildflowers. Many animals during late April or May (as temperatures are warming) will migrate within the park so you’ll likely see more animals crossing roads and walkways during this timeframe.

The least favorable times to see Yellowstone are November through the beginning of April because most roads, restaurants, campgrounds and visitor centers are closed for winter. Winter visitors mostly book guided, one-of-a-kind experiences during these months — something Fido would not be able to take part in.

Campground Reservations Are a Must

Pets are not allowed in any of the hotels or lodges at Yellowstone National Park. When making your travel arrangements, you will want to stay at one of 12 campgrounds in the park. All are dog friendly.

Campground registration opens on the fifth of each month, 13 months in advance of your travel timeframe. Yes, that means you’ll be able to make a reservation for August 2024 in July 2023. And during those summer months, you really will need to book that far in advance to secure your registration.

Once at the campsite, remember that you are in bear country. Store your food and other scented items in the bear boxes provided at each reservation area, and keep your pet on a leash and within sight. You must clean up after your dog and properly dispose of pet waste as well. These rules prevent wildlife from being lured close to your sleeping grounds.

Take a Hike

Get ready to stretch those legs after driving around to find the perfect lookout area! Dogs are allowed to roam alongside you on a leash (6 feet or less in length) in parking lots, public areas and within 100 feet of any road. Park rules state that a pet must never be unaccompanied, even if it’s only for a few moments.

Pets are not allowed on geyser boardwalks, trails or Yellowstone’s back country. Why is your dog not allowed in these locations?

  1. Geysers are a must for humans to see, but too dangerous for domesticated animals. Both humans and animals have been severely burned or even killed by a geyser. When geysers erupt the temperature is about 200°
  2. Bears, wolves and other wildlife located deeper in Yellowstone’s terrain prey on domesticated animals. Your dog may be able to outrun a bear, but your dog could lead wildlife straight back to you—a chance none of us at Taste of the Wild or the park rangers at Yellowstone want you to take.
  3. Diseases can be spread from Yellowstone’s wildlife to pets, and vice versa. Mange, parvo and distemper are just a few highly contagious diseases wild animals can transmit to your dog.

Riding in the Car

Yellowstone is humungous and often requires riding in the car for long periods of time, which might come as a surprise to first-time visitors, but it’s part of the experience for you and your dog. The park is spread out across 3,471 square miles with five different entrances to choose from. How much of the park you’d like to see will determine how far you’ll be driving. Consider it a road trip when it comes to knowing how comfortable your dog needs to be in the car.

Now, as you travel along Yellowstone National Park’s windy roads, make note that you are not alone out on the pavement. Even though the speed limits are low, make sure that your pooch is secured inside the vehicle and not hanging out the window. Not only could you encounter traffic jams or slow-moving drivers soaking up the scenery, but wildlife could dart out in front of your car at any moment. Enticing!

Remain flexible and account for extra time spent out on the road. This means you’ll also want to pack extra food and water for both you and Fido. And be sure to make extra pitstops along the way for stretching the paws and bathroom breaks. Remember to bag and dispose of pet waste, too!

Altitude Sickness

Pay attention to how your dog is doing on your travels to Yellowstone National Park, and while traveling around the park. Along the way does it seem like they are struggling with the elevation changes? Your dog may need to slowly work up to a higher elevation. Each pet’s needs are unique, and you know your furry companion best.

If you notice the following symptoms, be sure to offer your pet water and gradually work your way to a lower elevation as soon as possible. They’re likely experiencing altitude sickness.

  • Hard time breathing
  • Vomiting/nausea
  • Panting or drooling more than normal
  • Bloody nose
  • Decreased appetite
  • Increased heart rate
  • Swelling of face, limbs
  • Passed out

Get those plans made now for the year ahead! Yellowstone National Park has a lot to offer you and your dog. We know we’ve run through a lot of rules, tips and tricks for your travels to the park, but all of it is to make sure you both stay safe while having the time of your lives. You and Fido will fall in love with the sights, sounds and wonders the park has to offer. Yellowstone, here you come!

RELATED POST: A TASTE OF THE WILD GUIDE TO VACATIONING WITH YOUR PET

Tips for Your Puppy’s First Week at Home

Posted on March 22, 2023 - 6:08 pm by
Taste of the Wild

It’s puppy time! Your new puppy is here and ready to explore their furever home. But are you ready for puppy’s first week at home? You’ve got food bowls, chew toys and a cozy bed, but what should you do now that they’re here? We have some tips to make your puppy’s transition to their new home as safe and as stress-free as possible.

Safe and Supervised Sniffing

One of the first things your new puppy is probably going to do is smell everything. Puppies are born deaf and their eyes are closed for the first 2 to 3 weeks, but that nose works hard from day 1 and doesn’t stop. Your curious puppy will want to explore every nook and cranny in your house and that may include places they shouldn’t be and objects they shouldn’t be touching.

It’s best to puppy-proof your house before you welcome your new puppy home. That way you know the house is (relatively) safe. There are always going to be things that you didn’t think they could get into but they somehow find a way. So for the first few days, supervise their exploration time so you can watch out for hazards that you may have missed.

Some items that should be kept out of a puppy’s reach include electrical cords, sharp objects and anything else puppies shouldn’t be chewing on (e.g., stinky trash, your fluffy pillow, the TV remote, the cat’s food bowl). Make sure you put away anything toxic to dogs like medicines, cleaning chemicals, poisonous plants, human-only food (e.g., grapes, onions, chocolate) and anything else that might harm a nosy puppy.

Help Make Nighttime Less Scary

Have you ever stayed in a new place (e.g., hotel, cabin, friend’s house) and woken up in the middle of the night and forgotten where you were? Scary, right? Think about how scary a new home would be for a little pup (especially at night) with all of those strange new sounds, smells and surroundings.

Plus, depending on where you adopted your new puppy, they were probably with their mom, siblings or had other dogs around them that they knew, and now they’re alone or with unfamiliar dogs. According to VetBabble, when puppies are separated from the pack for the first time, their natural instinct is to be as loud as possible. So it’s likely that your new pup is going to cry (howl, whine or whimper) for a few days or even a few weeks when they’re alone.

You can make nighttime a little more comforting for your puppy by choosing a quiet area of your house for their bed. Make them a snuggly bed in a crate so they will have a secure space to make their own — and keep them out of mischief while you’re asleep. Putting a piece of your clothing near their crate can be comforting for them, plus it will help with bonding. Just make sure it’s far enough away that they don’t use it as a chew toy. You could also consider placing the crate in your bedroom, but if you would like your puppy to sleep in your bed, hold off until they’re potty trained — because, well, you get it.

Spend Time with Your New BFF

Nighttime isn’t the only part of the day that can be scary for a puppy — being left alone during the day can be worrying and overwhelming for your puppy, too. If possible, schedule some vacation days for the first few days that your pup is adjusting to their new home. It will help with bonding, and your puppy will have a friend with them while they’re exploring their new digs. If you can’t be home with them all day, see if a family member or a friend can stay with your puppy, or consider hiring a pet sitter while your puppy is settling in.

Practice Alone Time

Being left alone is going to happen eventually, though. Even if you work from home, there will still be times when you need to go out and you can’t take your little buddy with you. It’s important that your new sidekick learns how to handle being alone and that it isn’t something to worry about.

Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-ka) and Certified Separation Anxiety Trainer (CSAT) Shoshi Parks, PhD, has some useful tips on how to help your puppy become comfortable with being alone. First of all, place your puppy in their crate (or other confined space) with a high-value treat or toy and leave the house for five minutes. You’ll probably hear some barking or whining which is normal. Quickly come back in when there’s silence. It’s important to wait for a break in their barking otherwise they’ll learn that making noise is what makes you come back. Once they’re used to you being away for five minutes, try extending the time little by little.

Eventually your pup should learn that being alone isn’t too bad and that you do come back. Separation anxiety can occur in dogs of all ages, so it’s a good idea to start teaching them that alone time isn’t bad during your puppy’s first week at home.

Time to Go Potty. Again.

Stock up on cleaning supplies because you’re gonna need ’em. A lot. Potty training is another thing that should be started the day you bring your puppy home. But it’s going to take some time and quite a few potty accidents before they get the hang of it — which probably won’t be until they’re around 12 to 16 weeks old.

You can help reduce the number of accidents by taking your puppy on potty breaks every two to four hours — including in the middle of night, if needed. Crate training can also help with potty training because dogs are naturally averse to soiling their “den,” so they will go potty somewhere else. By taking them out of their crate and then immediately outside or to the designated potty place inside, they will learn that that’s where they need to go when they need to go. Eventually they will realize that your whole house is their “den” and not a place to go potty.

Stick to a Schedule

Consistent messaging and keeping to a routine are really important for helping your puppy adjust to their new home and family. Stick to the same schedule (as much as possible) for mealtimes, bedtime, play sessions and potty breaks. And if you have rules that your puppy needs to follow, make sure all of your household is enforcing the rules. If pupster isn’t allowed on the couch, you shouldn’t pull them up for a quick snuggle. It will just confuse them when they get in trouble for jumping onto the couch the next day.

Feeding Your Puppy

For mealtimes, veterinary nutritionists recommend feeding puppies at least two meals and possibly three or four meals daily until your puppy is 4 to 6 months old. Once they’re 6 months old you can stick with two meals a day, although some large and giant breeds may benefit from three meals a day. Feeding the right food is important to ensure your puppy grows into a healthy dog at the correct rate. Your veterinarian can help you determine the best food for your puppy and how much they should be eating.

The first week with a new puppy can be overwhelming and a little scary for both of you. But spending quality time with your puppy and setting up a routine will help everyone adjust in no time. Don’t forget to schedule your pup’s first visit with their veterinarian, too!

POST: Socialize Your Puppy Now for a Friendlier Tomorrow

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

Should You Really Not Pet On-Duty Service Dogs?

Posted on March 16, 2023 - 2:24 pm by
Taste of the Wild

If you see a dog where dogs generally aren’t allowed, chances are it’s a service dog, and chances are that it’s on the job.

We get it: When you see an adorable dog while you’re shopping, running errands or doing something else where seeing cuddly dogs isn’t the norm, it’s hard to resist the urge to pet it, despite the clearly labeled vest that indicates that they’re on the job and off limits. That dog is providing valuable and necessary service to someone in need. We stress that if you notice the dog in question is a service animal, do not pet the canine or make eye contact with it. You shouldn’t talk to the dog or wave at it either. Avoid distracting a service animal at all costs.

Service animals are not pets. They’re often considered a healthcare option. One small distraction could be the difference between the dog staying alert to assist its owner or that owner’s safety being risked. So when you see the ”SERVICE DOG” or “WORKING DOG, DO NOT PET,” indicator, please take it seriously!

How do you know if a dog is a service animal?

Most service animals wear special collars, vests or harnesses. Service dogs have received specialized training to perform certain tasks for an individual with a disability — including physical, sensory, psychiatric, intellectual or other mental disabilities. This specialized training is what sets service animals apart from therapy dogs, emotional support animals and pets.

If you watch a service dog’s behavior from afar, you’ll notice that they tend to have impeccable manners, they appear calm, and they won’t seek attention. They’re meticulous employees operating efficiently with their handler. You’ll probably never see a service dog pulling on its leash or chasing a wayward squirrel – during working hours, anyway!

Service animals are always on call.

Being able to rely on a service animal can provide great comfort to those who need the trained dog’s assistance. Even if you think a service dog is doing “nothing” at that moment, you can rest assured that the canine is always providing essential care. The dog may be helping the owner keep their balance. They may be on high alert to predict a seizure before it occurs so the owner can take necessary precautions. Or they could be assisting an owner with a hearing impairment to navigate busy aisles at a grocery store. The list goes on with ways a service animal could be helping their owner, which could be invisible to other members of society.

It’s against the law to interfere with service dogs.

The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) of 1990 protects the rights of people with disabilities to have their service animals by their sides. Most states take it a step further and have some laws in place to punish those who interfere with a service dog’s duties. Yes, you read that correctly. Each state has its own laws on how they handle individuals who interfere with a service animal doing its job, and punishment ranges from paying a hefty fine to being charged with a felony. So bottom line, do not interfere with a service dog’s duties.

How should you react around a service dog?

Rather than engage with the animal, contain your excitement. Give the dog and its owner space. Service dogs are trained to tune out commotion, but it can still be difficult for them to concentrate if you are persistent in trying to distract them. They are still dogs, after all.

Second, be courteous of the service dog’s owner by not asking questions. The owner may not feel comfortable talking to strangers about the service dog or their disability. Respect their privacy and resist the urge for initiating such conversations.

Are there any exceptions to this advice?

Yes, there is one exception. If a service dog ever approaches you without its owner, this is the only time to scrap the guidance above and follow that dog! A service dog without its owner is seeking help. Follow the dog, identify the situation at hand, and if the owner needs medical assistance, call 911.

Long story short: Let service dogs perform their service, and we’ll all be better off!

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How to Choose the Best Food for Your Growing Puppy

Posted on March 15, 2023 - 9:45 pm by
Taste of the Wild

The right nutrition is essential for keeping your puppy healthy, but if you search online for “What’s the best puppy food?” you’re going to get a LOT of options. You want the very best for your puppy to ensure they grow up healthy and strong, so how do you choose which food is actually the “best” for them?

Puppies have different nutrient requirements compared to adult dogs, and all of those nutrients have specific roles in fueling the needs of an energetic and fast-growing puppy. We’ll discuss why particular nutrients are important for puppies and explain which statements you should be looking for on the dog food label to determine the “best” food for your pup.

Grow Puppy, Grow!

You bring home your new puppy and — Bam! — a few short months later they’re not your tiny little puppy anymore. The first three to six months of a pup’s life is the most rapid growth period, and most puppies (except giant breeds) will reach 80 percent of their adult weight between 4.5 and 8 months of age.

All this growth is why puppies have nutrient needs that are different from adult dogs, who need nutrients only for maintenance (unless they’re pregnant or lactating). Maintenance requirements means adult dogs have enough nutrients to satisfy normal tissue repair and physical activity, and if they have any extra energy (calories) left over, it’s stored as fat.

Growing Puppies Need More Nutrients

Compared to adult dogs, puppies need more of most of the essential nutrients, and like adults, their health depends on receiving those nutrients in the correct amounts and proportions. Nutritional factors that are particularly important for puppies include energy, protein, calcium, phosphorus, DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and antioxidants. Let’s dive deeper into why those nutritional factors are important for puppies.

Energy Is Your Puppy’s Fuel

It doesn’t matter whether your pup is a shiba inu or a Saint Bernard, the amount of energy they need for growth will be greater than at any other life stage except lactation. After weaning, puppies need twice as much energy per pound of body weight as adult dogs of the same weight. As your puppy’s growth rate starts to decline, their energy requirement will also start to decrease (usually around 6 months of age).

But be careful… too much of a good thing can lead to a chubby puppy. Your puppy needs to have their energy needs met for optimal growth (not maximal growth), so it’s important not to overfeed them. If they eat too many calories, it can lead to an increased growth rate and an overweight or obese puppy, which in turn could become an overweight or obese adult dog with an increased risk of health issues.

Protein Is Vital for a Healthy Puppy

Protein, which is found in every cell of your puppy’s body, is important for building and maintaining muscle, bone, cartilage, skin and multiple organs. Puppies need more protein than adult dogs because puppies are growing all of those protein-dependent body parts. Protein also supplies the amino acids necessary to support a heathy immune system and to synthesize hormones, antibodies and enzymes.

The protein in your puppy’s food should be highly digestible to ensure all essential amino acids are delivered to and used by your puppy’s body for growth and development. Protein-containing ingredients in pet food include meat muscles (e.g., bison, venison, beef, lamb), meat meal (e.g., chicken meal, duck meal, lamb meal), fish, fish meal (e.g., salmon meal), eggs and ancient grains (e.g., chia seed, millet, quinoa and grain sorghum).

A Healthy Skeleton Needs Calcium and Phosphorus

Calcium and phosphorus partner together to keep your pup’s bones and teeth healthy. Nearly all the calcium and most of the phosphorus in your puppy’s body are found in their teeth and skeleton. Puppy foods have slightly higher levels of calcium and phosphorus to promote a skeletal growth rate that is appropriate for a puppy’s size.

Calcium requirements vary based on breed size. It’s important that large- and giant-breed puppies have the proper calcium-to-phosphorus ratio in their food, as they are especially prone to developmental bone issues.

DHA Helps Your Puppy’s Brain and Vision

The omega-3 fatty acid DHA helps support brain and vision development in your puppy. DHA is found in mother’s milk, and studies have shown that the benefits of DHA in the diet continue after weaning. Research has also shown that trainability can improve when DHA is included in a puppy’s food.

Antioxidants Support Immunity and Overall Health

Antioxidants like vitamin E, beta-carotene, vitamin C, zinc and selenium support your puppy’s developing immune system and may help it respond to vaccinations. Antioxidants also help protect your pup’s body from the damaging effects of free radicals. Some of the ingredients in pet food that are sources of antioxidants include chia seed, quinoa, blueberries, raspberries, tomato and sweet potato.

Look at the Pet Food Label

As you can see, growing puppies have very different nutrient requirements as compared to adult dogs. The “best” food for your puppy is one that is a complete and balanced diet and displays the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) nutritional adequacy statement for “growth” or “all life stages.” If your puppy is a large breed, make sure the AAFCO all life stages statement also says, “including growth of large size dogs (70 lb. or more as an adult).” These statements ensure your puppy’s nutritional needs will be met by the nutrients in the food.

With so many choices available, choosing the right food for your puppy can be overwhelming. If you need help, your veterinarian can determine which foods meet the nutritional needs of your puppy. Then you just have to work out which flavor they like best!

RELATED POST: A Taste of the Wild Guide to Choosing the Right Pet Food

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

How Not to Pet Your Pet

Posted on March 9, 2023 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Head, shoulders, knees and noooo! As much as your pet probably likes all sorts of snuggles, it’s possible to pet your furry companion in areas they don’t like and invoke the claws, growls or side eye. Cats and dogs have spots on their body they prefer you pet over others — and it’s worth noting cats might have different “don’t pet” areas than dogs. Here are some tips to make sure you have petting down pat. Just remember that every pet is different, and your best bet is to know their body language for signs of discomfort.

How to Best Pet Your Dog

Research shows petting your pup boosts their level of happiness (and maybe even yours). Cue the TikTok audio, “I’m just a happy, happy dog,” as you bend down to their level, extend your hand and let your canine come to you. Your pet’s body language will speak volumes to let you know if now is the right time for all the pets.

A dog that comes your way when you extend your hand wants to be petted. If their eyes look happy and their tail is wagging, this is another indicator it’s petting time! Pet, pat or scratch your doggo, going with the fur, not against it. They don’t want that bed head look when you’re done petting them.

If your pupper starts to put space between you, begins licking their lips or raising their paw, this indicates now is not the right time for petting. In addition, a dog that is sleeping or playing will likely not want to be interrupted for petting time.

Animals not wanting to be petted is nothing to take personally. If you move forward with unwanted petting, you increase your chances of being growled at or bitten. Therefore, it’s best to listen to what your dog is telling you.

What areas should you focus your petting on?

An infographic detailing which spots on a dog are okay to pet and which spots are not okay.

Not all dogs are the same, but typically canines prefer to be petted on their head, neck, chest, belly and middle back. When you find their sweet spot, your dog might start to kick their leg with joy. And if you roll over a spot that they don’t want you to touch, you’ll notice a shift in the way they respond. Areas to typically avoid petting include their tail, legs and paws. The lower back is a “maybe,” so pet this area with caution.

How to Pet Your Cat

Cats can be a little more standoffish than dogs, but that doesn’t mean your feline doesn’t want to be petted. They love attention from their people, as well! You might need to be a bit more in tune with your cat’s body language to know how and when they want to be petted.

You’ll also want to note that contrary to dogs, cats do not believe in the phrase “Give me all the pets!” Typically, cats prefer to be petted in smaller increments of time than your needy, needy dog.

Prior to petting, be sure you have your cat’s attention. Do not sneak up for a surprise petting. This could result in a draw of the claws. Let your cat sniff your hand or perk up with excitement.

Next, gently pet your cat, moving in the same direction as their fur, just like we recommended for doggos. If they begin to lean into your hand for more pets (bunting), relax their posture, knead or purr, you know you’re on the right track.

If your cat gently nips or paws at you during a petting session, you might need to readjust your touch. You might be petting too firmly. You might need to scratch behind their ears instead of petting their belly. Or they might want to be patted on the lower back opposed to just pets on the head. Adjust your level of firmness and location of petting until you find the sweet spot for your furry feline.

Aggressive jerks of their body or head can indicate your cat does not want to be petted. Raising a paw to bat at you, hissing and meowing in an unfriendly tone also indicate it is time to step away. Your cat will give you direct cues so you know what your next move should be. Listen to their desires — even if it means resisting the urge to pet them at that moment.

What areas should you focus your petting on?

An infographic detailing which spots on a cat are okay to pet and which spots are not okay.

While it’s true that each cat has their own wants and needs, studies show there are general areas that cats prefer to be petted. Felines favor being petted near their scent glands — all around their ears, on their cheeks and under their chin. Another highly preferred area is the lower back right before you reach their tail. The rest of their back and their sides are good spots to pet, but they don’t go as gaga over these locations.

Belly rubs are iffy territory. We say lean into this spot with caution. Some cats say, “Yes, please” while others say, “No, thank you!” Steer clear of the tail, legs, paws and toe beans for pets. Cats typically don’t prefer to be petted there.

When following the advice above, hone in on how your fluffy friend responds to touch. Adjust your petting techniques and the length of time you’re petting them to meet your animal’s needs. The right form of petting strengthens your bond with Mittens and Fido, and in the process, petting can boost your overall mood as well. A win-win all around!

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Can My Dog Eat That? APPLES

Posted on March 2, 2023 - 3:10 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Welcome to “Can My Dog Eat That?,” our series that answers some obvious (and not-so-obvious) questions about what your dog can and can’t safely eat. Read on!

You know what they say about apples and the DOGtor, right? While it’s not exactly gospel that eating an apple a day will keep your pooch out of the veterinarian’s office, the sentiment of the modern proverb is dead-on: Apples are pretty good snacks for your dog (and you, too!)

In moderation, nature’s candy won’t hurt your dog in any way and is, in fact, a healthy treat. Apples are great sources of fiber, vitamin C and vitamin A, not to mention potassium. And an underrated aspect of feeding apple to your dog is that the rough texture works as sort of a natural tooth cleaner and breath freshener. This aspect in no way replaces actual doggy dental care; it’s more of an added perk you get for feeding the fibrous fruit.

A not-so-underrated aspect of apples is that they taste great to your dog (especially with a sprinkling of cinnamon), despite being low in calories. This is all your dog really cares about, after all.

A Is for Effort

Of course, there’s prep work involved with feeding apples. You can’t just chuck a whole Sweet Tango at your drooling doggo and let them chow down. You have to slice that apple up first because (sigh) like all good things, there is a catch: Apple seeds and cores are no-nos. The seeds contain a tiny amount of cyanide, a dangerous poison. And the core is just hard to chew, making it a choking hazard or even a digestion issue if your dog does choke it down. The good news? You don’t have to peel that apple before slicing it and handing it over. The peels are great sources of potassium, and not harmful in any way, lest they get stuck between teeth (another reason not to duck out on the dental). What a nice switch for a fruit!

There’s an App(le) for That

Dogs can easily handle most forms of simple apple. Slicing or cubing raw apples is the most popular way to feed them, but don’t hesitate to bust out that old food dehydrator and offer up some chewy dried apple snacks. Another sweet spot is applesauce. Most dogs will wag uncontrollably over a saucer of the sauce. Just make sure that you go for unsweetened applesauce. Apples come pre-loaded by Mother Nature with more than enough sugar, so there’s no need for more.

Moderation, as Always

Remember when we said that offering a whole apple isn’t the way to go? There are reasons besides your seed and core issues. An average apple has nearly 20 grams of sugar which is…a lot. Too much sugar can cause bellyaches in the short term, and too much sugar on a regular basis can cause obesity or diabetes. If your dog is diabetic, it’s best that they avoid apples. Too much apple may also cause digestive upset, because of the large amounts of fiber. And doggy diarrhea isn’t a problem anyone wants. Stick to a few slices at a time and everything will be good.

There’s a small chance that your dog is allergic to apples, so for their first taste, stick to just a taste. If you don’t see any reaction, start slicing!

Interior graphic with text that reads ‘Can my dog eat apples? Yes!’.

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Things to Do After Your Pup Turns One

Posted on February 23, 2023 - 9:20 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Did your puppy recently celebrate their first birthday? Woo hoo! How was your first year together? There were probably some highs — your first hike together, graduating from puppy school, all of those sweet cuddles. Annnnd some not-so-highs — cleaning up potty training accidents, failing puppy school the first time ‘round, your favorite shoes getting chewed.

All in all, the first year of puppyhood was likely pretty fun for you both, but now you might be wondering what comes next. Here are a few things that you can (or should) do in the next few months, now that your puppy is officially a young adult.

Unleash Those Athletic Talents

If you’ve been itching to get your dog into a canine sport, we’ve got great news — your dog is (probably) old enough now! When choosing a sport for your dog to try, think about what skills they’re naturally good at and what type of things their breed usually likes to do. Herding events may be perfect for your dog if they spend a good part of their day trying to herd your backyard chickens into their coop. If your dog loves playing in water, maybe dock diving is their thing. Or if they’re an avid fetcher, try flying disc events.

The caveat is that some large-breed puppies haven’t finished growing yet and may need a little extra time to let their bones and joints develop properly before they can start their athletic career. Also, other breeds may not be able to take part in certain events due to their physical characteristics. For example, brachycephalic breeds (those with short muzzles, like bulldogs, pugs and Boston terriers) probably shouldn’t participate in swimming or long-distance running events due to their tendency for breathing challenges.

Before beginning a new sport, check with your veterinarian that your dog is healthy and old enough to start that particular sport. Some sports may be go-go-go but others may be no-no-no, or at least, no-no until your dog is a little older.

Brush Those Teeth

Remember those sharp little puppy teeth that were oh-so-good at chewing and biting things they shouldn’t? Well, they’re gone now, and have been replaced by your dog’s adult teeth. To keep those chompers in tip-top condition and reduce the risk of gum disease or “doggy breath,” it’s important that you continue (or start) making dental care a regular part of your dog’s routine care. Try to brush your dog’s teeth at least once a day and schedule professional veterinary cleanings regularly, too. Your veterinarian will likely perform these cleanings under anesthesia so they can conduct a thorough cleaning that’s also comfortable for your dog.

There are special pet toothbrushes available that fit over your finger, or you can use a child’s toothbrush or a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger. There are also pet toothpastes available that come in dog-approved flavors like peanut or poultry. Make sure you don’t use human toothpaste as the ingredients can cause an upset tummy.

Puppy Food or Adult Food?

Has your dog been enjoying a food formulated with puppies in mind? Something like High Prairie Puppy Recipe with Roasted Bison & Roasted Venison? Or maybe Pacific Stream Puppy Recipe with Smoke-Flavored Salmon? We certainly hope so! The good news is that you can continue feeding “puppy” food, as long as the label says the food “is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for All Life Stages including growth of large size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult).” If the label has that particular statement, there’s no need to switch to a food that doesn’t say “puppy” on it now that your dog is no longer a puppy.

Alternatively, if you’re ready for your dog to try a new food, maybe something like Southwest Canyon Canine Recipe with Wild Boar, you can do that, too — as long as your veterinarian agrees with the diet change.

It’s Time for a Visit to Your Veterinarian

You want year 2 for your dog to be a healthy one, so it’s important to take them for their annual checkup around this time. Your veterinarian can check that they’re growing well and don’t have any health issues that are hiding from you. The annual checkup is also a good time for you to ask questions about your dog, if you have any.
The vaccines that your dog was given as a puppy typically require a booster around one year of age or 12 months after the last puppy booster. They will include core vaccines that protect against distemper, canine adenovirus, canine parvovirus and rabies, as well as any non-core vaccines your veterinarian recommends, depending on your geographic location and your dog’s lifestyle (e.g., leptospirosis and kennel cough).

Raising a puppy can be challenging at times, but you did it! And now a lifetime of adventures awaits!

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