Tag: cats

Pet Cams: When You’re Away, Are the Pets at Play?

Posted on February 7, 2019 - 4:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

Ever wonder what your pet does all day while you’re at work? Does your dog make a beeline for the forbidden couch? Is your cat licking your toothbrush that’s propped in the glass by the sink? Or do they stare out the window all day, patiently waiting for you to pull into the driveway?

Inquiring owners want to know. And now you can — thanks to a multitude of high-tech pet cameras recently released to the market.

Nanny cams and pets: Is it ethical to check in?

You can probably rationalize spying on your nanny — especially if you suspect she or he is Facetiming friends when they should be supervising your little ones. And remote monitoring of your home has become commonplace with the advent of digital door monitors.

But peeping on your beloved dog or cat? Are pets entitled to a little privacy? Are you just being nosy about your snouts’ day-to-day lives?

As it turns out, there are some perfectly logical reasons why you might want to look in on your pet.

Monitoring their safety

If your pet is recovering from surgery, for example, you may want to keep an eye on your pup to make sure he or she isn’t licking the incision. (With some pet cams, you can even tell your pet “leave it” from your office miles away.) Or if your pet has a medical condition such as epilepsy, you can monitor for seizures.

Home security

Some pet cams come with a bark alert, so you’ll be notified on your cell phone with each yap or woof. That way, you can know if someone’s at your door while you’re away. Or if your pup really is as vocal during the day as your neighbor claims.

Night moves

Does your cat prowl around the house in the wee hours of the night? Some pet cams have night vision and recording capabilities so you can keep tabs on your tabby, even when you’re asleep.

Calm their fears

Do you have a pet with separation anxiety or thunderstorm phobia? Pet cams may enable you to calm them down with your voice, or even spray some pheromones to help soothe their anxiety. In either case, you should consult your veterinarian about additional steps you can take to help them feel better.

Get them moving

All pets could use a little exercise during the day. Why not challenge yours to a laser dot chase game? With some pet cams, all you have to do is swipe your finger across your smartphone screen.

Behavior consult

Does your pet display an odd behavior, like compulsively licking the walls of your house, but then act completely normal when you take him or her to the veterinarian? With the right pet cam, you can catch the behavior on video and play it back for your veterinarian. Not sure what your pet is chewing on? Zoom in for a closer look.

Tighten your bond

You check in with your family throughout your work day, and that should include your pet, right? Many video cams offer person-to-pet video and two-way audio capabilities. You can even put them through their training paces from the job and reward them with a treat.

If you’re still worried about invading your pet’s privacy, one pet cam offers an option that lets your pet call the shots. When you’re available, a light goes on to notify your pet. Your pet, in turn, can push a button to initiate a call. The trouble is, will you, like Pavlov’s dog, spend your day staring at the phone, waiting for a signal from your pooch?

Winter Cat Safety: Keeping Your Tabby Toasty

Posted on January 3, 2019 - 3:57 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Pet cats have the right idea about winter. You’ll never find them shoveling or scraping ice off a windshield. They’re more likely to be inside, basking in a sliver of sunshine. Or curled under your down comforter. Which raises the question: What else can you do to make your kitty feel cozy during the cold winter months?

Invest in feline fashion — While a hairless cat breed such as the sphynx could use a wool sweater, other cats may appreciate some extra insulation, too. Especially if you keep the heat turned down low or it’s drafty near the windows. When you choose a sweater or coat, make sure it doesn’t restrict your cat’s movement and doesn’t include beading or strings that could be chewed off and swallowed.

Make a comfy bed — The cold and damp can bring out the aches in an arthritic cat’s joints. Since cats often hide signs of illness, you may not know that your cat is in pain. In fact, one study reviewed 100 random X-rays from cats aged 6 months to 20 years, and the researchers found evidence of arthritis in 91 percent of those cats. So why not provide a padded bed to help cushion those joints, just in case?

Add a little heat — Some cat beds are designed to be self-heating, meaning they absorb your cat’s body heat and reflect it back to the cat.  Other heated beds may use heating elements that are warmed in the microwave or plugged in like an electric blanket. A word of caution: hot water bottles and other heated elements should never be placed next to a cat’s skin. To help avoid burns, there should always be at least a towel between the heat source and the cat. Also, electric beds can be dangerous if your cat urinates in the bed or chews on electrical cords.

Trim out those mats — Cats’ fur, especially if it’s long, can become matted if it’s not brushed regularly. While it may be tempting to leave the mat in place for warmth, the mat may actually have the opposite effect by not allowing air to circulate between the skin and coat. If your cat’s fur is severely matted, ask your groomer or veterinarian for help.

Heat your cat’s food — You enjoy a warm meal when it’s blustery outside. So why shouldn’t your cat? It’s easy to slightly warm canned food (make sure it’s not too hot). Or you can heat up low-sodium chicken broth and pour it over your cat’s dry food for a belly-warming treat.

Move the litter box — Do you keep the litter box in the cold basement? Then consider moving it to a warmer spot, away from drafts, just for the winter.

Help the neighborhood stray — If there’s a stray cat that frequents your yard, consider trapping it and bringing it to shelter to reduce the risk of hypothermia and frostbite. As an alternative, provide a “cat house” lined with straw that’s sheltered from the wind and snow. Make sure the house is raised off the cold ground. If the kitty takes to it, provide food and fresh water daily. That simple kindness will make you feel warmer, too.

The Ethics of “Saving” Sick or Aging Pets: How Do You Know When to Let Go?

Posted on August 16, 2018 - 12:33 pm by
Ethics of “saving” sick or aging pets

Sir Walter Scott was not only a prolific poet and novelist, he was also “perhaps the most devoted dog lover that ever was,” according to a New York Times article published in 1898. In paintings, he is almost always portrayed with a dog. And his deerhound, Maida, is immortalized in the monument of Scott in Edinburgh, forever curled at his side.

Scott lamented about the brief lives of his canine companions: “I have sometimes thought of the final cause of dogs having such short lives and I am quite satisfied it is in compassion to the human race; for if we suffer so much in losing a dog after an acquaintance of ten or twelve years, what would it be if they were to live double that time?”

It’s a loss that all dog and cat lovers have to face at some point. But how do you know when it’s time to let go of your companion? And when can euthanasia, in fact, be the most kind and loving choice?

The Dilemma of Sick and Old Pets

Pets are living longer than ever before, thanks to advances in nutrition and veterinary medicine — and perhaps because more now sleep in our beds, rather than outside. And many of the same life-extending procedures available for humans can also be offered for pets. From brain surgery and chemotherapy to hip replacements and kidney transplants, there’s almost nothing you can’t do for your pet (at a price, of course).

But like human medicine, most of these advanced measures rarely come with guarantees of how much life — or quality of life, considering potential drug side effects or hospitalizations — they’ll buy for our pets.

Even if the pet is simply grey around the muzzle and slowing down from a degenerative disease, a common phenomenon in older pets, at what point is medical poking and prodding helping the pet or hindering comfort and happiness?

Subtract Your Emotions from the Equation

While these questions never have black-and-white answers, what makes them even harder is the fact that your pet is a loved family member, bound inexplicably to your heart. But perhaps the kindest thing you can do is to put aside how you feel and focus instead on how your pet feels. How can you minimize your pet’s suffering and make sure their remaining time is physically and mentally rewarding? To help accomplish this, there are numerous quality-of-life surveys, like this one, that help you objectively evaluate whether your pet is enjoying life or having a hard time of it.

You can also keep a daily diary to determine if your pet is having more bad days than good. Or select three of your pet’s favorite activities, whether it’s slurping up peanut butter, chasing a laser or retrieving the squeaky toy, and note when your pet loses the interest or ability to do the things he or she loves.

The Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement also offers resources and online chats to help you grapple with the difficult decision.

It’s Always a Personal Decision

Your veterinarian can be an invaluable resource in terms of evaluating your pet’s comfort level or simply serving as a sounding board to discuss how you feel. But inevitably, only you and your family can decide what’s right for your pet.

Knowing when to let go is, without a doubt, the toughest part of being a pet parent. But it’s also one of the most loving and compassionate ways we can repay our pets for a life of devoted companionship.

Your Cat’s Tail: A Translation

Posted on July 27, 2017 - 6:14 am by
Taste of the Wild

Does it seem that your cat intentionally keeps you guessing about what’s in his or her mind? Guess what: your cat is actually giving you hints — with its tail. In fact, tail position is one way cats communicate with other animals. If you know how to decode the language, you can understand what your cat is trying to say to you, too.

Of course, every cat is unique and may have his or her own way of communicating, but in general, here’s what your cat may be saying with its tail.

An interior graphic detailing how to translate your cat's tail with nine different tail positions and what these positions may indicate.

Of course, knowing what your cat is saying with his or her tail is just the start. Your cat also uses facial expressions and other body parts to communicate. Once you become more fluent in your cat’s body language, you’ll realize that he or she actually talks to you quite a bit — without saying a word.

Stop Your Cat from Scratching and Answers to Other Weird Cat Behaviors

Posted on March 9, 2017 - 10:56 am by
Taste of the Wild

Few animals have inspired more internet videos than the cat. Why? Because cats keep us baffled with their oddball behaviors. Why does your cat scratch doors? Why must they always push things off the counter? And what makes them curl their upper lip and hold their mouth open as if in a daze? Well, we have some answers to your questions about Kitty’s baffling habits.

There’s a Cat at the Door

Have you been forced to banish your cat from your bedroom so you can get a good night’s sleep? Well, your cat wants in. And they are not shy about letting you know. But why do they want in so badly? It could be that your cat just wants to cuddle. Or more likely, they have learned that you feed them in the morning when you wake up, so the sooner they wake you, the sooner they feast. Logic!

The answer? Try giving them a cozy bed sprinkled with catnip in another room. Or initiate a play session before bed so they can chase a feather toy or laser pointer until they are exhausted enough to sleep through the night. You can also provide them with a food puzzle or timer box to distribute their food without bothering you.

Some cats scratch at doors simply because they like the texture. Scratching helps remove the outer sheath of their nails, allows them to mark the object with the scent glands in their paws, and it’s a great way to stretch. Give your cat a more acceptable alternative with a scratching post or climbing tree, and trim their nails regularly.

What’s Up on the Counter Must Come Down

Another popular kitty behavior is pushing pens, TV remotes and glass vases off of the counter (or any other high surface). What’s up with that? Typically, it’s a bored kitty trying to prod some object into motion, leading to a game of chase. Better yet, the sound of things shattering usually brings a human to the scene — so your cat gets attention — and the naughty behavior is reinforced.

There’s a two-part solution: (1) Ward off kitty boredom with scheduled playtime every day and (2) Try to keep them off the counters. Determine which feathered or furred toys they prefer and rotate them throughout the week to keep them interested. Then, make the counters less attractive as a perch by covering them with surfaces and textures cats typically don’t like, such as tin foil or cardboard.

Smelling with Their Mouths

Have you ever noticed your cat sniff at your shirt, then hold their mouth open with that faraway look in their eyes? It’s called the flehmen reaction, and it’s their way of getting a better whiff of the scent — with their mouth. Cats have a unique batch of sensory cells called the Jacobson’s organ, located on the roof of their mouths. By drawing a scent into their mouth and over the organ, your cat can better interpret the scent in question.

There’s no need for a solution to this, but now you know why it happens!

Your Cat Kneads You

Does your cat rhythmically paddle their front paws into you like they are kneading bread dough? Also known as “making biscuits,” it’s an instinctive behavior that usually starts when a newborn kitten kneads their mother’s chest to start the milk flowing. Cats often continue this behavior later in life as a way to calm themselves down, to mark you with the scent glands in their paw pads or just because they feel comfortable with you.

What about your cat’s other weird behaviors? That may just be their way of keeping you guessing.

Top 8 Litter Box Training Issues & What to Do About Them

Posted on March 24, 2016 - 9:19 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Many cats experience a litter box issue at some point in their lives. Finding the root cause is the key to helping your kitty love the litter box again. Here are a few of the most commonly found litter box training issues and what you can do to alleviate them.

Ew, I Can’t Go In There!

A cat making a silly expression while looking around.

Is your precious furball eliminating everywhere except their litter box? It could mean their litter box needs a thorough cleaning.

Avoid any issues with cleanliness by removing clumps daily and changing the litter at least twice weekly for non-clumping and monthly for clumping. Whenever you change the litter, wash the litter box with soap and water (avoid bleach and ammonia).

Notice a lingering smell? Toss it out! If you can notice a smell, you can bet your cat’s sensitive nose definitely smells it.

This Is Mine

A cat lying on a couch by itself next to text that reads, 'Sorry, couch is full'.

Territorial cats tend to mark their territory by “spraying” items around the house. Spraying is a common problem for cats that have not been spayed or neutered. Typically, spaying and neutering an intact cat will often resolve the issue.

And remember — it’s best to use the formula “cats + 1” to determine the number of litter boxes you need in the home if you have multiple kitties. (You’ll need three litter boxes for two cats, four litter boxes for three cats, and so on.)

Have feuding cats? This can also cause the problem to escalate. Separate any territorial cats and reintroduce them slowly.

It’s Not Just Right

A cat closing its eyes with a tear rolling down its cheek.

Your cat may be a feline Goldilocks — the litter box has to be juuuust right. If your cat is uncomfortable in the litter box, chances are good that they will avoid eliminating there. Take a look at the litter box and ask yourself these questions:

  • Is the litter box hard for your cat to get into? (Do they need better accessibility?)
  • Is the litter box the right size? (Too small is uncomfortable, too big is scary.)
  • Does the litter box have a hood? (If yes, your cat might feel claustrophobic. If no, your cat might feel overexposed.)
  • Does the litter have a scent or an odd texture? Is there too much or too little litter in the litter box? (Cats are sensitive to textures and smells. Try a new litter that is better suited for their senses.)

Location, Location, Location

A cat running down steps past a frightened kitten that is having trouble going down the steps.

Sometimes the root of your litter box problem can be as simple as its location. Have you recently moved your litter box? It could be that your cat is having a hard time remembering where it is… or they are unimpressed with the new location. Gently remind your cat where the litter box is and see if anything in the area is putting them off using the litter box.

Make sure your cat can easily locate and use the litter box. If a litter box is all the way in the basement, your cat may be having an issue reaching it. If that’s the case, your cat may need a litter box on each floor of your house.

That Box Is Scary!

A frightened cat raising its paw to its face.

Like humans, cats can associate things or places with a memory. If that association is something negative, it could lead to litter box avoidance. If there is a negative sentiment, help create a safe, quiet space for your kitty to eliminate in an effort to make it a positive experience.

Has someone in your house reacted to your cat eliminating outside of his or her litter box by placing his or her in it as punishment? Many pet owners think this helps teach their cat a lesson, but in reality, it causes cats to avoid the litter box.

Is There an Underlying Medical Issue?

A cat wrapped in a blanket lying face up in a sink bowl.

In some cases, inappropriate elimination is a health issue. Common illnesses that cause elimination issues include urinary tract infection (UTI), bladder stones or blockages and feline interstitial cystitis.

If you believe your cat is suffering from a medical issue, consult your veterinarian immediately. Your veterinarian will walk through the steps to identify these health issues.

I’m Not Trying to Make a Mess

A used litter box with litter scattered all over the floor.

While kicking litter out of a litter box may seem like an irrational practice to pet owners, it is a logical step for a cat. Cats make an indentation in the litter when preparing to eliminate. Afterwards, the cat covers it up with litter, and if the walls aren’t tall enough, you will have litter everywhere.

To fix this, the easiest solutions are to either buy a new litter box with taller walls or fix up the current one you own.

If you prefer to keep your current litter box, consider placing it in a large plastic storage box. Be sure to cut an opening in one of the sides for your cat to easily access the litter box. This solution may be ideal for solving the stray litter issue when dealing with a cat who has joint or mobility problems.

Litter, Litter Everywhere

A white cat stepping out of an enclosed litter box.

While living with a cat can be lovely, constantly cleaning litter off your floor is not. To decrease the amount of time you spend sweeping up spilled litter, try one of these methods.

Heavier or Bulkier Litter

Many lighter litters can get stuck in your cat’s paws, meaning they are tracking that litter well after their visit to the box. If that is the case, try a heavier or bulkier litter. Be aware — you’ll need to transition between litters for the comfort of your cat.

Use a Mat

Try placing a mat outside the litter box. A mat will help trap the majority of excess litter. Avoid any mats with textures your cat has shown an aversion to.

Trim Your Cat’s Hair

Long-haired cats, as the name implies, typically have long hair between their toes. This hair often catches litter, resulting in your cat tracking it around the house. Trim the hair between their toes to help stop spreading litter.

How to Solve Other Litter Box Problems

A cat sitting on top of a bucket on the floor.

There are many problem-specific solutions to inappropriate elimination, but if you are unable to identify the root problem or if it seems your cat enjoys eliminating in a specific place at your house, try these potential solutions:

  • If possible, try closing a door or putting up a barrier to close off that area.
  • Place food bowls and treats in those favorite areas to discourage them from eliminating in that space. Cats typically will not eliminate near their food, so this tends to be successful.
  • Put a bell on your cat and catch them in the act. If you catch your cat, try to startle them to create a new association with that spot. Do not scare your cat — this will only worsen the problem.
  • Change the texture of the area. Place newspaper, plastic or sandpaper on those favorite areas.

It can be difficult to break inappropriate elimination habits. But early detection and dedicating your time to solving any underlying issues are key to controlling these problems. With time and patience, your cat will be happily using their litter box!

How to Train a Cat to Stay Off Counters & Tables

Posted on October 15, 2015 - 1:17 pm by
A cat lying on its side on a kitchen countertop.

Nothing is safe when cats jump on the countertops: cups spilled, picture frames tossed off the ledge and snacks eaten. No matter what you do, you can’t seem to make Fluffy stay off those alluring counters. So if you’re wondering how to correct common cat behaviors and stop your cat from jumping on the counter, read on!

Despite stereotypes of crying kittens stuck in trees, cats are agile and competent climbers. In the wild, they used this skill to hide from prey, rest in warm places away from predators and survey their territory. In your home, cats are still attempting to do these things, and it’s your breakables that pay the price.

What NOT to Do When Keeping Cats Off Tables or Kitchen Counters

  • Don’t scold or physically apply punishment when the cat jumps. Your cat might get off the counter that one time, but they won’t learn to stay down — they will only learn to be frightened of you.
  • After your cat jumps up, don’t shove them off of a ledge. They might fall and get hurt. Instead, keep a spray bottle handy. A light spritz of water every time your cat hops on the counter or table will discourage some cats in a hurry. Others might not care!
  • Don’t use loud or painful environmental punishers (like motion detectors that make loud noises). Your cat may become skittish and frightened of the entire room or house, not just that area.
  • Don’t leave food scraps on the table or kitchen counters. They’re like treats to cats!

​​Instead, consider these steps to discourage your cats from being kings of the countertops.

Step 1: Figure out why your cat is so drawn to those areas.

When wondering how to keep a cat off the table or how to stop a cat from jumping on counter tops, it helps to consider why they’re so interested in the first place. What are their reasons? Are they perching on the windowsill to watch birds? Snoozing on the warm fridge? Or just prowling around, looking for stuff to do and being destructive? All of these symptoms are your cat trying to talk to you about their environment. Maybe they just want a little of your attention, and that’s where you are.

Step 2: Provide substitutes to kitchen counters or tables.

Before you can successfully dissuade your cat from hanging out on the counters and tables, you will need to fulfill their needs in other ways. Perhaps a cat tree or climbing shelves, access to other windows, or a pet bed in a warm place would be a welcome substitute. Cat trees are readily available in every pet store. Just ask for cat trees or the cat tower aisle.

If your cat is knocking items off of shelves and tables, you may need to increase the mental stimulation of your home by providing new or different toys and games. Your cat’s behavior might be less than desirable because they have too much mental or physical energy.

Step 3: Make the countertops less alluring.

If your feline friend is drawn to the warmth and view of the window, close the blinds. If they like to snack, make sure the counters are clean and there are no dishes in the sink. If your cat likes to prowl the countertops, provide a cat counter deterrent! Temporarily cover them with aluminum foil to provide an unpleasant but harmless texture. When cats jump, they don’t like surprises, and the feel of unexpected aluminum foil will make them think twice next time. Double- sided tape can work the same way but isn’t great for some surfaces. Cats hate both textures!

Step 4: Provide playtime, every day.

Your cat needs to exercise for at least 10 minutes twice per day. Playing together will increase your bond and provide stimulation so Kitty won’t be so tempted by the interesting countertops. Try some tried-and-true kitty classics, like chasing a string or spraying toys with liquid catnip.

Step 5: Choose your battles.

Many cat owners choose to allow some kitchen counter climbing. Cats are natural climbers, and many cats like to be around their human families, drawn to high places in the room where their humans are hanging out. If your kitty simply can’t break their countertop habit, you may need to accept it as the price of admission for that cat’s love and companionship. Just frequently clean the kitchen counter so you’re not interacting with litter box residue!

Keep Your Cat Happy and Out of Trouble? Easy!

Wondering how to keep your cat off of counters and tables sometimes seems like a full-time job. But with a little investigation, some alternative climbing perches, positive reinforcement, and maybe even some clicker training methods, keeping your cat off the counter might be easier than you think.

What does the guaranteed analysis tell me?

Posted on May 20, 2015 - 8:15 pm by
Taste of the Wild

The beauty of the guaranteed analysis is that it gives you a lot of information about what is inside a bag of pet food. Once you understand how to read it, you will be better equipped to compare different varieties of pet food.

By AAFCO regulations, the guaranteed analysis is only required to list four nutrients: crude protein, crude fat, crude fiber and moisture. However, many pet food companies list additional guarantees not only to provide you with more information about the food but also as a mark of quality. The more things that are guaranteed, the more things that regulatory agencies can test for and fault a company for if they do not meet the level on the label. Because of variances between different types of laboratory equipment, sometimes foods can be faulted even if they truly are not deficient in one of their guarantees. Added guarantees mean that the company is working hard to manufacture a precise formulation each and every time, and you can be assured that bag to bag, that product is likely to be more consistent than a product that only guarantees the four required nutrients.

The first nutrient listed is crude protein. This is a measurement of the guaranteed minimum level of protein in the food. If the food guarantees a minimum of 21 percent protein, it is not going to contain 32 percent protein. By AAFCO regulations, a diet that states a guarantee of 21 percent protein may have no less than 20.4 percent protein. There is not a specified maximum, but the protein is typically within 2 percent of the target. So a 21 percent protein formula would range from 21 percent to 23 percent, but would most often be right at 21 percent or slightly higher. Your dog will benefit from a food that has protein from animal protein sources. After you check the level of protein, look at the ingredient listing to see where that protein is coming from.

The next listing is crude fat. This is also a minimum guarantee, with a 10 percent allowed variance. So, if the guaranteed minimum fat content is 15 percent, the minimum allowed by AAFCO would be 13.5 percent. Most foods very closely target the fat level, so expect very little variance in this nutrient.

Next comes crude fiber. This is typically pretty low, 2–3 percent, and is a maximum level. In hairball formulas for cats and weight loss formulas, you will usually see a higher level of fiber, usually 6–8 percent. Higher fiber formulas will result in larger stools than low fiber formulas, but this is to be expected.

Finally, you will see the moisture guarantee. In dry formulas, this is typically 8–12 percent maximum, and in canned formulas it is typically 75–85 percent.

Protein and fat will show the widest variance among different types of pet foods. Cat foods have higher protein content than most dog foods. Formulas specifically designed for athletes, puppies, and low carbohydrate formulas for dogs will have high protein content and often high fat content as well.