Can an Outdoor Cat Ever Become an Indoor Cat?

Taste of the Wild

Is a stray cat trying to adopt you? Does it appear at your doorstep day after day? Does it press against your ankles and gaze at you adoringly? If so, it’s possible that it could be happy living the rest of its life inside your home. Especially if the cat has been socialized, perhaps by a previous owner, and it’s comfortable around people.

Feral cats, on the other hand, have always lived in the wild, have never been socialized and may never be comfortable living in close proximity to humans. If this particular cat appears to be more friendly than scared, it may be possible for them to trade in the outdoor life for an indoor one.

The outdoor life comes with risks

Why keep cats indoors? The average lifespan for an indoor cat is 10 to 12 years longer than that of an outdoor cat, according to the American Humane Society. That’s because roaming cats can be hit by cars, attacked by predators, or exposed to deadly diseases or other potentially life-threatening dangers.

The first step: a veterinary exam

If you can tempt the cat into a carrier with some tasty tuna, the next stop is the local veterinary clinic. Your veterinarian can scan for a microchip to make sure the cat is, in fact, a stray and not a neighbor’s cat freeloading food and affection.

If there’s no microchip, it’s important for everyone’s safety to have the cat examined before introducing it to any family members, including your furry ones. The doctor can check for diseases, such as feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus, which could be spread to current household cats.

At the same time, the veterinarian will evaluate the cat’s health and treat any internal and external parasites, so you’re not welcoming ear mites, fleas or roundworms into your home, too. Spaying or neutering the cat can help reduce roaming and decrease the incidence of marking within your home. Now’s the time to administer vaccines and implant a microchip, just in case the cat inadvertently slips out the door.

Catproof the house

If you haven’t already done so for other housecats, make sure your house is safe for your new cat. Remove any plants that may be toxic, put away string, thread and other small objects that may be swallowed, cover electrical cords that could be chewed and make sure windows and screens are secure.

Create a cat haven

Help your new cat become gradually acclimated to its new surroundings by limiting it to a bedroom for a week or two. This can help the cat become adjusted to using a litter box. Start with unscented, clumpable litter, and scoop the box daily. For now, avoid boxes with covers and self-cleaning mechanisms. Food and water bowls should be placed as far away from the litter box as possible.

To help create a cat haven, provide with creature comforts including a soft bed and a kennel or box to hide in. Pheromone sprays or diffusers can help ease anxiety and promote calm.

You’ll also want to provide opportunities for hunting and adventure, similar to what they had in the outdoors. A cat tree, placed near a window, can satisfy the cat’s need to climb, stretch and get a bird’s-eye view of, well, the birds outside. Treats that are hidden around the room can simulate the hunting experience. And a scratching post, sprinkled with a little catnip, can provide a better alternative for sharpening nails than your furniture.

Spend plenty of one-on-one time with your new cat, so he or she can get used to your company and to being touched or handled. Encourage play and exercise with feather dancers and other toys.

Introduce other pets gradually

After your new cat adjusts to being inside, allow the cat and other pets to sniff each other under the door. You can also rub a towel on one pet and place it in the room with the new cat (and vice versa) so they can learn each other’s scents.

After a week or so, open the bedroom door and allow the new cat to explore the rest of the house when other pets aren’t around. Gradually introduce the pets during supervised sessions, and allow the new cat to retreat to its own room when needed.

With a little patience, you can help a stray cat transition to indoor living so it can feel the kindness and love that comes with being part of your family.

12 Tips for Raising a Healthy, Happy Kitten

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Do we detect the pitter-patter of tiny kitten paws in your house? If you’re adding a new feline family member, here are some important kitten care tips to help you make a successful start.

Age matters. The kitten socialization period, when they learn to interact with other animals and humans, ends at around 7 weeks of age. To encourage healthy social interactions and bonds, make sure kittens aren’t separated from the litter before this time.

Catproof the house. Remove toxic houseplants; put away string, yarn, buttons and other small objects that can be swallowed; and cover electrical cords that can be chewed.

Start a veterinary health program. Your veterinarian can recommend the right vaccines, parasite prevention and nutrition to help put your kitten on the road to good health.

Tag your kitten. It’s easy for small kittens to inadvertently slip out the door. Increase the chance they’ll be returned to you with an ID tag on a breakaway collar. This kind of collar snaps off if caught on a fence or branch to prevent choking, in which case a microchip can serve as a permanent form of identification.

Make gradual introductions. If you have other household pets, keep the kitten in a separate room, allowing pets to sniff each other under the door, then through a baby gate, and then gradually introduce supervised meetings over the course of a week.

Scratching is a normal behavior. Provide kittens with scratching posts so they can give in to their natural instincts. Start nail trims early so kittens are comfortable with having their paws handled.

Count the litter boxes. You need one box for every cat in the household, plus one more, in different locations. Large, uncovered boxes with low sides in easily accessible but private locations are best. Most cats prefer unscented, clumping litter that’s scooped every day.

Stay positive. Never punish a kitten because this can lead to fear, anxiety and aggression. Instead, reinforce good behavior with praise and a treat.

Make time for play. Purchase or make cat-safe toys, such as feather dancers and balls that can’t be chewed or swallowed. They don’t have to be expensive — kittens like hiding in cardboard boxes and paper grocery bags or batting around wads of crumpled paper.

Invest in good nutrition. Your veterinarian can recommend a diet that’s specially formulated to provide the energy and nutrients to help your kitten grow strong and healthy. Avoid the bottomless food bowl, which can lead to overeating and obesity.

Start brushing. Use a finger brush and pet toothpaste to get your kitten accustomed to dental care from an early age. Same goes for grooming: Brush medium- and long-haired cats to help prevent the development of painful mats.

Train your kitten. Most kittens are able to learn certain commands such as “come” and “sit.” Keep training sessions short, and reward the right behavior with treats and praise.

Cancer Signs: What to Watch for in Pets

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If you’re lucky, you’ll never be faced with a diagnosis of cancer for a pet. But about 1 in 10 dogs and 1 in 5 cats will be diagnosed with cancer in the U.S. this year, according to the Animal Cancer Foundation. We’re sharing pet cancer signs to help you recognize when something may be amiss. After all, early diagnosis and treatment give your pet the best hope for a remission or, in some cases, even a cure.

Of course, the signs of cancer vary depending on the organs or body parts affected, such as the skin, blood or bones. These signs can also signal other conditions, so don’t panic. Just see your veterinarian if you find any of the following:

Unexplained weight loss: If your pet starts looking thinner than usual, and you haven’t started a new diet or exercise routine, it’s time for a checkup.

Enlarged lymph nodes: The lymph nodes that are the easiest to find are just under the jaw, right below the ear and behind the knees. Normally, the lymph nodes feel like a small, pliable blip between your fingers. But if you feel anything firmer or bigger than usual, talk to your veterinarian.

Skin lumps and bumps: You should run your fingers over your pet’s skin at least once a month so you can identify any lumps that are growing or changing. Female pets that have not been spayed are at greater risk for mammary cancer, so be sure to check for any unusual growths on their chests and bellies.

Chronic coughing or difficulty breathing: Tumors that occur in or around the lungs can cause respiratory problems.

Lameness or limb swelling: If you run your hands along both of your pet’s front or rear legs at the same time, it’s easy to compare and spot areas with unusual swellings along the bones. If your pet starts favoring a limb, or is hesitant to bear weight on it, talk to your veterinarian.

Stinky breath or difficulty chewing: These can certainly be signs of periodontal disease, but pets can get tumors in their mouths, as well. If your pet will allow it, take a peek at the gums and under the tongue, checking for unusual growths.

Chronic vomiting or diarrhea: Not surprisingly, cancers of the digestive tract can lead to loose stools, upset stomachs and in some cases, trouble defecating. If the problem persists, or your pet starts losing weight, make an appointment.

Circling or seizures: A pet with a potential brain tumor may experience a sudden onset of seizures, especially in the older years, or may pace in circles over and over again.

Abdominal distension: Pets might have swollen bellies from overindulging in the treat jar, but it can also be a sign of an enlarged organ, such as the liver.

Lethargy:  Any time your pet seems less active than usual, lags behind on walks or just doesn’t want to interact with the family as much, there’s a good chance something’s not right.

When in doubt, see your veterinarian. It may be nothing. But if it’s something more serious, you’ll be glad you caught it early.

Benefits to Spending More Time at Home with Your Pets

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If you’re spending more time than usual at home with your cat or dog, you may be searching for new ways to keep your pet mentally stimulated. But did you know that pets can also help your mental and physical health?

There are quite a few practical benefits to spending more time with your pets. Dogs and cats are scientifically proven to help our physical and emotional conditions. So it’s good to know that while your pet seems to make you feel good, he or she really is making you feel good.

Pets relieve stress

In 2012, the data made it official: even thinking about your pet could make you feel more positive in the moment. Multiple studies separated subjects into three groups: one was placed near a pet, the second was asked to think about pets, and the third wasn’t exposed to pets in any way. The first two groups were more positive about imagined goals and, when asked to perform difficult tasks, did so with lower blood pressure than the group that was sans pets. Just having your dog or cat on your mind puts you in a better frame of mind. Think about that the next time you’re Zooming with the office.

Pets force you to be healthier

Being stuck at home is a great excuse to park it on the couch and dig in for long sessions in front of the television. When you combine this tendency with fewer grocery visits and less discriminating diet choices as a result, it’s easy to see how your physical health could take a turn for the worse. But you know who isn’t interested in chilling with Netflix? Your pets. They see your increased presence at home as an opportunity for more walks, more fetch, more activity in general.

And the science backs up the thought. According to the New York Times, dog owners spend close to 300 minutes each week walking with their dogs, which is about 200 more minutes of walking than people without dogs. That’s 5 hours of physical activity; or almost 3½ hours more than non–pet owners. We can reasonably expect that gap to increase now that we’re spending more time at home with our pets. What are you going to do, let them stare at you with the leash in their mouths all day?

You literally feel better around your pet

In addition to less mental stress and better physical health, pets make you experience healthier emotions thanks to chemistry. Science Magazine reported that pets increase oxytocin levels in the brain. Oxytocin is a hormone most notably released when a mother gazes into a newborn baby’s eyes and vice versa. It creates a sense of trust and bonding between the two parties. The study reported in Science showed that when an owner and a pet gazed into one another’s eyes, oxytocin levels rose 130 percent in the dog and 300 percent in the person. The test results suggest that the bond between an owner and pet is similar to that between a mother and child.

Separate studies have shown that simply petting a pet releases the “feel good” hormones serotonin and dopamine in similar ways that snuggling children do to mom and dad. Gives new meaning to the term “pet parent.”

Pets are great co-workers

If you’re working from home for extended periods, pets offer additional benefits. They’re always happy to see you. They’re not likely to try to microwave fish for lunch, although they would if they could. If you do a lot of video conferencing, no one ever seems to get tired of surprise appearances by cats and dogs. They’re not going to rat you out for taking frequent breaks to go outside for fresh air. They encourage naps on the job. And as we’ve already established, just thinking about your pet can help you work through complex problems. Imagine what you can do when he or she is curled up on your lap.

Pet Diet Mistakes: 8 No-Nos When Feeding Your Pet

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For pets and their owners, the universal language of love is often spoken with food. A scrambled egg on top of kibble. A bite of your turkey sandwich. These are all ways we tell our pets we love them. And our pets dance on the kitchen floor to show us their love in return.

Harmless fun, right? Well, not always. See if you’re making any of these pet feeding mistakes.

The bottomless bowl. Most pets aren’t known for having self-control. If you leave food out all day, every day, it can lead to overweight pets, although cats are better at self-regulating than dogs. Pets will often eat out of boredom, even if they’re not really hungry. And it’s not just a matter of growing too fat for their collars — obesity can lead to diabetes, joint damage, heart disease and other health problems in pets.

The homemade diet. It sounds so wholesome, doesn’t it? But unless it’s been formulated by a board-certified veterinary nutritionist, a home-cooked diet can lack the right balance of protein, energy, vitamins and minerals for your pet. And pets with special nutritional needs, such as pregnant or nursing animals, puppies or kittens can develop serious health problems if they’re not fed a nutritionally balanced diet for their life stage.

The vegetarian diet. Cats are obligate carnivores, which means they need dietary meat to live. Dogs are able to produce certain amino acids such as taurine and arginine, some of the building blocks of protein, and therefore can be healthy with a meat-free diet. Cats, however, lack the enzymes to do so and need a meat source in their diets to obtain these required nutrients. That said, cats shouldn’t be fed a diet of meat alone. They also need carbohydrates and other nutritional ingredients for a balanced diet.

The dairy fallacy. Everyone knows cats love nothing better than to lick a bowl of cream, right? Not exactly. Most cats are lactose intolerant and dairy products can actually lead to vomiting and diarrhea.

The “I can’t resist those brown eyes” diet. Who can blame you? But feeding your pet table scraps and treats throughout the day can lead to digestive problems, weight gain and begging, which started the cycle in the first place. Remember: what’s on your plate isn’t always safe for your pet. Foods like grapes, raisins, chocolate and onions can be toxic for pets. If you really want to give human food as treats, opt for safe, low-calorie options such as raw apples or carrots. Treats should also account for no more than 10 percent of pet’s total daily calorie intake so you can make sure they get the full nutrition from their regular food.

The real-bone treat. Real bones from the butcher can harbor bacteria such as Salmonella that can sicken pets and people. Bones are also often harder than your dog’s teeth, and chewing on them can result in tooth fractures. Splintered bones, if swallowed, can cause damage to the digestive system that requires emergency surgery.

The follow-the-label diet. Just like people, adult pets have different activity and metabolism levels. That’s why the feeding recommendations on food packages could be too much, or too little, for some pets. It’s best to consult your veterinarian about the right food and amount for your pet. You can also check out the Pet Nutrition Alliance calorie calculator to determine exact calorie counts for your pets. Then, watch for changes in your pet’s body condition score so you can tell if your dog or cat needs to back away from the food bowl.

The single bowl approach. Having multiple pets share one food bowl is asking for trouble. Some pets may be food aggressive, resulting in that pet hogging all the food while the other one is forced into a hunger strike. Plus, changes in appetite can be a sign of a health problem, so it’s important for you to know just how much each of your pets is eating.

If you have any questions about your pet’s diet, always ask your veterinarian. They can help determine the right food — and the right amount — to keep your pet healthy and happy.

Pet Poison Safety Tips: Is Your Home Really Poison-Proof?

A small white dog sitting behind grapes, chocolate and other common foods that may be poisonous to your pet.

Pets have a way of getting into things they shouldn’t. The chocolate bar that fell between the sofa cushions. The bottle of aspirin you left on the kitchen table. Or that slug bait on the garage floor. Since next week is Poison Prevention Week, we thought everyone could use a few safety tips on how to poison-proof your house.

Here are some of the top toxins that pets can typically find around the house:

  • Houseplants — While households with cats should avoid many types of lilies, other plants, such as sago palms and dieffenbachia, can be problematic for pets, too. But don’t worry if you’re really into houseplants. There are plenty that are generally safe for pets. These include spider plants, Boston ferns, African violets, Christmas cacti, Swedish ivy, lipstick plants, moth orchids and some succulents such as Haworthia, Peperomia and burro’s tail.
  • Human over-the-counter medications — Drug toxicity is a top claim at Nationwide Pet Insurance because people intentionally give their pets medications intended for humans. Just because some over-the-counter drugs like pain relievers, cold medications and herbal supplements don’t need a prescription doesn’t mean they’re OK for pets. Play it safe: Never give your dog or cat a human medication unless you have been directed to do so by your veterinarian.
  • Human and pet prescription medications — Think you have trouble getting into those child-proof bottles? Some pets can make quick work of them, getting into potentially dangerous drugs like ADHD medications, antidepressants, and heart medications. Some prescription medications for pets often contain meat flavoring, which may entice pets to down a month’s worth of doses at once.
  • People food — You’re probably well aware that some foods, such as grapes, chocolate and onions, can be dangerous for pets. But never forget that a determined pet can knock over the garbage and swallow chicken bones, coffee grounds, wrappers, moldy food and items that may be toxic, lead to pancreatitis, or require emergency surgery to remove them.
  • All things that require batteries — Most dog owners have probably had to replace a TV remote or two. But leaving any battery-operated devices, such as toys and smartphones, lying around can lead to a trip to the emergency clinic with your pet. And power cords, while not toxic, can lead to electric shock or worse if your pet chews on them. Keep all these items out of your pet’s reach.
  • Medical or recreational marijuana — Today’s marijuana often contains significantly more THC than in years past. Dogs and cats can become poisoned by exposure to marijuana smoke as well as eating pot plants or cookies, brownies or candies made with this ingredient.

That’s just a short list of what your dog or cat might find in your house.  Want more details? Here’s a room-by-room checklist of possible pet toxins.

Of course, if you suspect that your pet may have gotten into a toxin, call your veterinarian or the Pet Poison Helpline at (855) 764-7661 immediately.

National Pet Diabetes Month Is a Good Time to Consider Why Your Tabby Is Tubby

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If your cat is a bit rounder than they used to be, that’s not so unusual. A new study, which collected weight data on 19 million North American cats, found that once cats outgrow the kitten stage, they often keep growing, packing on pounds until about eight years of age.

The researchers, based at the Ontario Veterinary College, also found male cats tended to top out at higher weights than females. And cats that underwent spay or neuter surgeries were generally heftier than intact cats.

Maybe that’s why, 60 percent of the cats in the U.S. in 2018 were considered overweight or obese, according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention.

At risk for diabetes and more

Overweight cats can be at greater risk for diseases such as diabetes. Signs of diabetes include increased thirst and urination and weight loss despite increased hunger. If left untreated, diabetes can be fatal. Because November is National Pet Diabetes Month, talk to your veterinarian if you think your cat may be at risk.

Other conditions that plague overweight cats include high blood pressure, osteoarthritis, kidney disease, respiratory difficulties and even some types of cancer. Chubby cats can also have more trouble jumping, playing and climbing.

Are we feeding cats the wrong way?

Is it possible that we could be at fault for this trend towards the pudgy? Consider this: For centuries, cats were hunters, and that instinct stays with them to this day. That’s why cats prefer to eat several small meals throughout the day, according to specialists in feline medicine. And if cats could hunt for their food, all the better.

Instead, cats are often fed in one location once or twice a day. In many cases, the food is mounded in the bowl all day long. The trouble is, this kind of feeding can lead to overeating and inactivity. For bored cats, eating becomes a form of entertainment. And if there are multiple cats eating from the same bowl, and one cat is a bully that guards the bowl, other cats may feel stressed and gobble up food when they finally get an opportunity to eat.

How much food should your cat eat each day?

When it comes to pet weight, it’s always best to start with your veterinarian. He or she can show you how to accurately evaluate your cat’s weight. At the same time, the doctor can calculate how much food your cat should eat on a daily basis. Then you can divide the total amount of daily food into several small meals that can be fed throughout the day. Additionally, it’s always a good idea to refer to the feeding guidelines offered by the manufacturer.

Make your cat work for its food

You can try to mimic your cat’s natural eating behaviors by using food puzzles, which release small amounts of kibble when your cat manipulates them in the right way. Start with simple puzzles to help your cat get the idea, then increase the puzzle complexity over time. You can also leave kibble in different places around the house so your cat has to “hunt” for food. Both of these techniques provide your cat with physical and mental stimulation, which makes for a happier and more active cat.

Another option is to use an automated feeder, which releases small amounts of food throughout the day. While this does portion food out throughout the day, it doesn’t satisfy your cat’s hunting needs, so a little laser pointer chase game may be in order. For multiple-cat households, consider programmable feed bowls, which use microchips to only allow certain cats access to the food.

Finally, it’s a good idea to monitor your cat’s weight from month to month, using a scale at home, if possible. Unexpected changes in your cat’s weight can indicate a potential health problem, so be sure to contact your veterinarian if the scale reading changes.

Dogs at Work: A Day in the Life of Veterinary Technicians

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Whether you bring your pet to the veterinary clinic for blood tests, surgery or a dental cleaning, chances are, a veterinary technician will care for your dog or cat while they’re there. To help celebrate National Veterinary Technicians Week, we’ll tell you everything you need to know about the dedicated people who love up your pets at the veterinary clinic or hospital.

What, exactly, does a vet tech do?

In many ways, a technician is the veterinary equivalent of a human nurse. So much so that it has been proposed that changing the title to “veterinary nurse” might be more appropriate to promote greater understanding and respect for the important work technicians do.

In addition to nursing care, vet techs draw blood, place intravenous catheters, run lab tests (such as blood work and urinalyses), manage anesthesia and assist during surgeries, take X-rays, perform dental cleanings, trim toenails, care for hospitalized pets and help with pet owner education. Have a question about insulin injections or fleas and ticks? A vet tech can help.

In fact, technicians do just about everything around the clinic except those tasks reserved exclusively for veterinarians: making a diagnosis, prescribing medications and performing surgery.

Challenging education and clinical training programs

To become a technician, it’s not enough to love working with animals. Vet techs need specific training to learn the proper skills for the veterinary clinic. That includes studying clinical techniques by working with live animals and laboratory skills by training on diagnostic equipment, not to mention spending hours peering into a microscope.

While veterinary technicians have generally earned an associate’s degree (two years) from a school accredited by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), veterinary technologists typically earn a bachelor’s degree (four years) from an AVMA-accredited school.

Even after all that, candidates still need to pass a national board exam before they can be considered licensed, certified or registered veterinary technicians (LVT, CVT or RVT, depending on state regulations).

Then what does a veterinary assistant do?

With so many people at the clinic in scrubs, it’s easy to get them mixed up. Veterinary assistants may have some high school or certificate education in veterinary science, but generally, they’re trained by the veterinarian or vet tech to assist around the clinic, such as cleaning the surgery room or kennels, as opposed to being part of more advanced clinical tasks and procedures that vet techs take on.

Like veterinarians, vet techs can specialize, too

Veterinarians can become specialists in areas such as surgery, ophthalmology and behavior by taking advanced training in these areas. The same goes for vet techs. There are several specialty areas available, including emergency and critical care, dentistry, internal medicine, anesthesia and analgesia (pain management), dermatology, laboratory animal care, behavior, clinical practice, pathology, equine medicine, and physical rehabilitation.

To specialize, the vet tech must complete all the training outlined above, plus devote about 75 percent of their time working in that area and pass a certification exam. The next time you’re at your veterinary clinic, make sure to thank the vet techs for all they do to help your pet.

How to Build a Pet First Aid Kit

A person putting a blue bandage on the paw of an injured dog.

Accidents happen. Maybe your pet snoops in your purse and chews open a bottle of ibuprofen. Or your dog gets nipped by another at the dog park. Whether your pet’s just not acting like themselves or it’s a medical emergency, you should always call your veterinarian before treating the problem yourself. However, it’s a good idea to have a pet-specific first aid kit on hand. Just in case.

First aid kits come in handy for cases when your veterinarian doesn’t encourage you to come in right away, when the doctor instructs you on how to treat the condition at home, or when an accident needs immediate attention.

When compiling your kit, consider the following:

Important numbers and other information

Phone number for your current veterinarian: Program it into your cell phone.

Phone number for the closest emergency clinic: Especially for evenings and weekends when your regular veterinary clinic may be closed.

Phone number of the 24-hour Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 764-7661, if your pet accidentally ingests a potential toxin.

A list of current medications your pet is taking and vaccine records: Helpful information for a veterinarian who is not familiar with your pet.

Supplies for transporting an injured pet

A soft muzzle: Pets who are distressed, fearful or in pain may bite, so a muzzle may be needed so you can help them; however, you should never muzzle an animal that is vomiting or having difficulty breathing.

A large towel, blanket or stretcher: For carrying an injured pet. A pillowcase may work as a makeshift stretcher for cats.

A kennel or pet carrier: For confining an injured pet in the car.

For checking vital signs

A rectal thermometer and petroleum jelly for lubrication: Normal temperature for dogs and cats is 100 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.

A list of normal values for pets: In adult dogs, the normal respiratory rate is 10 to 35 breaths per minute and pulse is 60 to 140 beats per minute. For cats, a normal respiratory rate is 20 to 30 breaths per minute and heart rate is 140 to 220 beats per minute.

For possible toxin exposure

Hydrogen peroxide 3 percent (watch expiration date): To induce vomiting in dogs. Always call your veterinarian first to determine if vomiting should or should not be induced (some toxins are caustic and can cause additional damage if vomiting is induced). Your veterinarian can advise you on the proper dose. Do not give to cats, brachycephalic (flat-nosed dogs such as bulldogs and pugs) or unconscious animals.

A teaspoon or tablespoon: To measure the hydrogen peroxide.

An oral dosing syringe, bulb syringe or turkey baster: For administering hydrogen peroxide.

For cuts and bleeding

If there’s uncontrollable bleeding, do not treat cuts at home — go to the nearest veterinary clinic.

Disposable gloves: To help keep your hands and the wound clean.

A clipper: For trimming hair around a wound.

Tweezers: For removing thorns and other foreign objects.

A small bottle of gentle dishwashing liquid: For cleaning dirt and debris out of a wound.

Sterile gauze pads and rolls, non-stick gauze pads: For bandaging the wound.

Scissors: For cutting bandages.

A roll of self-cling bandaging or tape: For keeping the bandage in place. Self-cling bandaging is available in most pet stores; be careful not to wrap the area too tightly.

Styptic powder: To stop bleeding if nails are trimmed too short or if nails are torn.

Other helpful items

Diphenhydramine (Benadryl®) tablets or liquid with no other ingredients included: For possible allergic reactions. Your veterinarian can tell you the proper dose.

Small bottle of corn syrup: For diabetic pets, in case of low blood sugar.

Artificial tears or sterile eye solution: For flushing eyes.

Instant ice pack: To help reduce swelling; do not place directly against skin — wrap it in a towel if possible.

Penlight: For looking in the mouth or checking pupil response.

Needle-nosed pliers: For removing fish hooks (cut the barbed end off first). In the case of porcupine quills, do not try to remove yourself — bring your pet to the veterinarian where it can be properly sedated for the procedure.

With any luck, your pet will never have an accident that needs your attention at home. But if he or she does, you’ll be grateful that you’re prepared and ready to help. And PLEASE REMEMBER:
ALWAYS CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN BEFORE TREATING A PROBLEM AT HOME.

Inter-Cat Aggression: When Cats in a Multi-Cat Home Don’t Get Along

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Maybe you adopted a new cat to give your current cat a playmate. Or you brought home a kitten to encourage your two older cats to exercise more. But now they won’t have anything to do with each other. In other cases, cats in your multi-cat home may break into “cliques,” essentially ostracizing — or even fighting with — other cats.

What’s a peace-seeking owner to do?

Not All Cats Are Naturally Social

When you adopt siblings that have been raised together since birth, there’s a pretty good chance they’ll get along later in life. Same goes for kittens that were introduced at a young age. But mixing adult cats in one household can be more problematic for a number of reasons.

Introducing a new cat abruptly, rather than gradually, can upset the current household cats. And any cat that was poorly socialized as a kitten may not have the skills to interact properly, which can put other cats on the offense.

Not having enough resources —  litterboxes, food and water bowls or cat trees — or limiting the access to those things can make some cats territorial about these items. For litterboxes, the general rule of thumb is one box per cat, plus one. So, if you have four cats, you need at least five litterboxes in different locations.

Cats of different ages may have different energy levels. An older cat may lose patience with a younger cat that’s constantly interrupting naptime or pouncing on painful, arthritic joints.

Fighting Words

Aggression between cats may be overt, with threatening body language including hissing, arching the back, raising the hair along the spine and tail, presenting the side of the body, or turning ears back. The situation can also escalate into an all-out brawl. An indoor cat watching a neighborhood cat “trespass” in the yard may displace its frustration by attacking the unsuspecting cat sitting next to him or her.

There can also be more subtle forms of feline aggression. The “bully” may stare at another cat in an intimidating manner. He or she may block access to the litterbox, scratching posts or cat trees. The aggressor may push the other cat off the couch or away from your attentions.

Unresolved inter-cat aggression can lead to chronic stress and other problems such as house soiling, marking and over-grooming.

Restoring the Peace

What can you do to help make things happier on the home front?

1. Make introductions gradual. When adding a new cat to the house, place the newcomer in a separate room with its own litterbox and food/water dishes. Over the course of several days, allow the cats to smell each other’s scent under the door. Gradually allow interaction under supervision

2. Eliminate the “vet” scent. When one cat visits the veterinarian, rub a towel on that cat, then on your other cats, then back to that cat again, before letting that cat back in the household. That way, you can eliminate the strange scent that may put other cats on edge.

3. Don’t skimp on the resources. Make sure there are plenty of litterboxes, scratching posts and toys to go around. Provide places to hide and cat trees with high resting spaces. It may be best to avoid covered litter boxes because cats may feel vulnerable with only one entrance and exit.

4. Neuter male cats. While this can help reduce aggression, it may not completely eliminate it.

5. Provide places to hide. For cats that get bullied by other housemates, provide a room where it can get away from others. You could even set up microchip-operated cat flaps inside the home that only let certain cats in or out of an area.

6. Consult your veterinarian. In some cases, medications, pheromones or a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist might be necessary to help lower stress in the house.

Your cats may never be best pals. But you can help them call a ceasefire.