What Strikes Fear into the Hearts of Pets?

Taste of the Wild

With Halloween around the corner, friends and neighbors will do their best to send a shiver down your spine. But have you ever wondered what frightens dogs and cats?

Pets can develop fears and the exaggerated fears known as phobias. But unlike the make-believe ghosts and goblins of Halloween, some pets’ fears are so real that they can cause anxiety and lead to behavior problems, aggression or even property destruction and self-injury.

Fears can develop in an animal for many, many reasons, from traumatic experiences to genetics. But in pets, many common fears can be traced back to the ever-important socialization period of a pet’s early life. Fears may develop because of lack of exposure to people, places and situations during that socialization period, which is the first 12 weeks of life for dogs and the first 9 weeks for cats.

Common dog and cat fears

Both dogs and cats can develop a fear of just about anything. It may be rational, such as a pet that howls in fear during car rides after previous episodes of motion sickness. Or it can be apparently irrational, like the dog who shrieks every time the silverware drawer is opened.

Some pets are afraid of strangers and may bolt out of the room when the doorbell rings. Or they may come unglued when they meet a baby, a child, or a man in a uniform. Other pets may be frightened of other animals or of a specific breed of dog.

Certain situations, like a trip to the veterinary clinic or groomer, or a walk on slippery hardwood floors, can make pets shake in their paws. Pets can even be frightened by an unfamiliar object in the house, such as a new fan.

Common phobias in dogs include noise phobia, thunderstorm phobia and separation anxiety. Pets can also suffer from more than one phobia. In fact, many pets with thunderstorm phobia also have separation anxiety.

Signs of fear and anxiety

Fearful pets often feel anxiety, or a sense of unease in anticipation of a threat, that may be mild or severe.

Anxious dogs may pace, pant, drool and tremble. They often lick their lips and yawn. Cats can hiss and arch their backs, or they may nervously overgroom, resulting in hairless patches.

Both dogs and cats may freeze in place, hide, cower or try to make themselves appear small by curling into a ball, tucking their tails close and pinning their ears against their heads. Pupils are often dilated (enlarged), the hair on their spine may stand up and they may whimper or yowl. They may lose their appetites or become aggressive. Some may empty their anal glands or eliminate inappropriately.

These are all signs of a distressed pet, and under no circumstances should the pet be punished, which usually only exacerbates the pet’s fear and anxiety.

Overcoming Fears

The best way to help a fearful pet is to make an appointment with your veterinarian or a veterinary behavior specialist as soon as possible. They can work with you to help identify what’s causing your pet’s fear. They’ll also give your pet a thorough physical to make sure there aren’t any underlying medical problems that might contribute to the behavior. Typically, your veterinarian will recommend a combination of treatments, which may include behavior modification, environmental changes or, if needed, medications.

For the pet that runs when the doorbell rings, for example, you might start by changing the doorbell chime so it’s less likely to cause anxiety in your pet. Then, gradually desensitize the pet to the doorbell cue by asking family members to ring the bell and enter, so the pet recognizes that the sound results in a positive event. As your pet becomes more comfortable, provide a treat or toy each time they remain calm after the doorbell.

Then you can place your pet on a leash and gradually have other people your pet may be familiar with enter the door. Ask these people to ignore your pet and avoid eye contact. Treats may be tossed toward the pet to invite them to approach the person. In this way, work to gradually reduce the space between the person and the pet. Once your pet is comfortable with this, try having strangers come to the door, all the while rewarding your pet for non-fearful behavior.

Helping your pet overcome fears requires time, patience and positive reinforcement for every advancement he or she makes. But helping relieve anxieties can improve their quality of life, which makes it all worth it.

The Primordial Pouch: Why Do Cats Have a Belly Pouch?

A white cat with a belly pouch walking through the grass.

Many cats have a pendulous pouch that swings back and forth from the abdominal area when the cat walks across the room. But what is it exactly? Is it the saggy remnants of a previous pregnancy in female cats? The droopy remains of a fat paunch in previously overweight cats? The feline equivalent of a muffin top? And is it normal for a cat’s abdomen to have a pouch? We’ll answer those questions and more.

What Is a Cat’s Primordial Pouch?

In cats, this excess collection of fat, loose skin and fur is called a primordial pouch. The pouch typically runs the length of the cat’s belly and is usually more noticeable near the rear legs. Most of the primordial pouch is not attached to the abdominal wall, which allows it to flip-flop and stretch during movement.

These primordial pouches are normal and don’t just appear in an overweight cat, so rest assured, your kitty does not need a tummy tuck (in fact, veterinarians generally refuse to do this kind of cosmetic surgery). Spay and neuter surgeries generally aren’t behind the development of these primordial pouches, either.

Why Do Cats Have a Primordial Pouch?

The feline primordial pouch is a mystery. While experts agree that primordial pouches are normal, no one is sure, exactly, what purpose they serve. The most common theory is that a cat’s primordial pouch provides protection — extra padding to protect the cat’s body and internal organs from sharp teeth and claws during skirmishes with prey or other cats.

Others speculate that the excess skin of a primordial pouch provides flexibility, making it easier for cats to stretch and run when they need to put an escape plan into action. It’s possible the primordial pouch also provides a food storage purpose, allowing the stomach to expand when cats eat an especially large meal, or a place to store fat for future sustenance (although this makes more sense for cats in the wild who aren’t served a bowl of delicious food every day like house cats are).

Do All Cats Have a Primordial Pouch?

While the primordial pouch may be unnoticeable in some cats, it can be pronounced in others, including older cats and certain cat breeds, such as the Bengal, the Egyptian mau or the pixiebob. Primordial pouches can even be spotted in big cats like lions, tigers and other large wild cats!

When Do Cats Develop a Primordial Pouch?

Every kitten is born with a primordial pouch, but you won’t begin to see it until they start developing into adults at around 6 to 12 months of age. But as we mentioned, depending on their genetics, in some cats the primordial pouch may still be hard to see as an adult.

Why Is My Cat’s Primordial Pouch So Big?

If your cat has a large primordial pouch, it may be due to their breed or other genetic factors. The pouch size is not typically related to their weight or health status — skinny cats can have large primordial pouches and overweight cats can have small primordial pouches. If you have a senior cat, you may notice their primordial pouch has gotten bigger as they’ve aged. When skin ages, it loses its elasticity, which can make the pouch look saggier.

Excess Skin or an Overweight Cat?

All that loose skin in your cat’s belly flap can make it difficult to evaluate if your cat is getting pudgy. In general, when viewing your cat’s shape from above, a normal, healthy cat should have a perceptible waist. You should also be able to feel your cat’s ribs without a lot of effort. If you’re having trouble feeling your cat’s ribs or seeing their waist, they’re probably overweight. If you need more help determining if obesity might be the cause of your kitty’s belly pouch, your veterinarian can help.

So if your feline friend has a primordial pouch, don’t fret — it’s perfectly normal. We may not know why your cat’s primordial pouch exists, but it’s there for a reason and doesn’t need to be removed.

Why Do Cats Need to Knead?

A close-up of two cat paws.

For some cats, kneading seems like the pinnacle of Zen contentment. They close their eyes and rhythmically press one paw, then the other, often extending and releasing their nails at the same time. In this meditative state, they may drool slightly or rev up their purring engine to the loudest setting. But what’s behind this behavior?

Instinctive nursing behavior

Shortly after birth, kittens often knead to stimulate their mother’s milk flow, a behavior dubbed “milk treading” by noted zoologist Desmond Morris. This behavior may continue into adulthood as a way to show contentment. Snuggled in your lap or in a soft bed, your cat may knead as a way to communicate how happy they are there. And the drool? Perhaps it’s a feline version of Pavlov’s dog: they salivate in anticipation of the milk they received as kittens.

Labeling “what’s mine”

Your cat has scent glands on their paw pads, so when they knead, they leave an olfactory message for other cats that says, “I was here” or “this is mine.” Contented cats may also rub their lips, cheeks or foreheads on their owners for the same reason, to leave a personal message from scent glands in those areas.

A calming influence

Cats may also knead when they’re feeling anxious, as a self-soothing behavior. For instance, cats in unfamiliar surroundings, such as a boarding facility or veterinary clinic, may knead to block out distractions and focus on a feeling of contentment.

Creating a nest

Just as dogs turn in circles before lying down, a behavior that may come from their wild ancestors who tamped down the grass to make a bed, cat kneading may be an instinctive behavior to clear a place to rest.

Kneading until it hurts

Some cats may get downright aggressive with their kneading, using all four paws, sinking claws into human skin and yowling loudly. The cats are often in a trance-like state with legs that twitch or move stiffly.

If that happens, avoid punishing the cat. Kneading is a natural behavior, and negative reinforcement will likely confuse the cat and cause additional stress. There are, however, a number of things you can do:

  • Keep your cat’s nails trimmed.
  • When your cat kneads on you, place a thicker blanket between you and your fur baby.
  • Redirect your cat’s behavior to a different area, such as a blanket or cushion.
  • Distract your cat with treats or a play session with their favorite toy.

If the kneading becomes excessive, it’s possible your cat is feeling stressed about something and resorts to kneading to soothe itself. Synthetic pheromones such as Feliway, available in sprays or plug-in diffusers, may help the cat feel calmer. Otherwise, consult your veterinarian for other strategies to help your cat.

Cats are mysterious, but knead not to be

The ways of a cat’s mind or the whys of what they choose to do might be an ever-unsolved mystery. But they don’t have to be! Our comprehensive guide to cat behavior might shed a little light on the subject of your inscrutable kitty’s thoughts and moods. We’ll help you use your cat’s tail to tell the tale of their mood, better understand what’s in a purr, examine what your cat does all day when you’re not around, and just grasp the concept of cat behavior a little better.

Read How to Interpret Your Cat’s Behavior: A Taste of the Wild Guide here!

Would You Believe Cats Get Acne, Too?

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Oh, the embarrassment of those unsightly blemishes. While often the source of teenage angst in humans, acne doesn’t have the same social repercussions for cats. In fact, feline acne has nothing to do with a cat’s teenage years or hormonal roller coasters going on inside the body. So what’s the deal with acne in cats?

Feline acne is a skin condition that affects the chin and lips, including the lower lip, the corners where the lips meet, and less commonly, the upper lip. Hair follicles in these areas become plugged with oil and dead skin, leading to redness, irritation, blackheads or worse. Cats can experience this condition episodically or it can be a persistent problem.

Signs of feline acne

Early signs of feline acne include skin inflammation, blackheads, spotty hair loss, crusts and dark flecks of debris. Secondary bacterial or fungal infections can lead to worsening of signs, and plugged hair follicles can become filled with pus and rupture.  The affected area can become swollen, itchy and painful, and hair loss may become more widespread. In chronic cases, skin scarring can occur.

What causes it?

Of course, we can’t blame these feline skin lesions on too many greasy French fries. But experts still aren’t clear what, exactly, causes the condition. Some blame poor grooming habits, stress or abnormal skin oil production. Others point to viral infections or a compromised immune system, which can lead to microscopic Demodex mites infiltrating the hair follicles. Other theories include underlying allergies to plastic food bowls, food or environmental irritants.

How to help your cat at home

Start by replacing any plastic food or water bowls with ceramic or stainless-steel bowls.

If your cat will tolerate it, gently soak the problem area with a washcloth dipped in warm water two or three times a day to help soften and remove crusts and open plugged hair follicles. Do not use any over-the-counter ointments or treatments intended for people.

When to see your veterinarian

If you don’t see any improvement, visit with your veterinarian. The doctor may suggest some diagnostic procedures. A skin scraping may be recommended to check for Demodex mites. They may also suggest a bacterial culture or fungal culture for ringworm. Sometimes, cats can develop a lesion on the lower jaw from tooth root abscesses, so a dental X-ray may be in order. Rarely, a skin biopsy may be recommended.

Treating feline acne

Gently shaving the area can make it easier to clean and enable topical medications, such as shampoos, ointments or wipes, to be applied directly to the skin. The doctor may recommend a topical treatment that helps flush the hair follicles or a medicated treatment to fight bacteria or fungal infections. In severe cases, he or she may prescribe oral medications or an injection to treat infections or help soothe inflammation.

Keeping your cat’s chin and the skin around the lips clean may help prevent outbreaks, but for many cats, the condition can flare periodically. If that happens, your veterinarian can provide guidance to help keep your cat comfortable.

RELATED POST: 12 Tips for Raising a Healthy, Happy Kitten

Fear of Fireworks: Help Your Pet Make It Through the Night

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The whistle, boom, crackle and whizz of fireworks, not to mention the pop-pop-pop-pop of firecrackers, are enough to send many pets into a frenzy. Up to half of pet dogs react with fear to fireworks, according to a recent article in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior. One study reported that more than 15 percent of those dogs take several days or longer to recover from the experience.

Fear of loud noises, also known as noise phobia or noise aversion, is more common in dogs than cats, but some cats might display their fear by burrowing into the laundry basket in the basement. Pets that are afraid of fireworks are also likely to dislike other noises such as thunder and gunshots. If you have a pet that would rather forego the fireworks, we have some tips to help soothe your pet’s fear.

Signs of noise phobia

Many dogs (and cats as well) may choose to hide during fireworks. But others may display anxiety in other ways: They pant, pace, tremble, drool, or seek attention by pawing, whining and climbing onto people. Some may have accidents in the house.

Since dogs aren’t sure where the noise is coming from, those that are indoors may try to escape by leaping through a window or bolting out a door. In fact, one in five pets goes missing after experiencing loud noises, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). That’s why it’s important for your pet to have an ID tag and/or microchip that includes your current contact information before the fireworks begin.

Easing your pet’s anxieties

Whatever you do, try not to leave your pet alone on these stressful nights. Also, don’t give them any sedatives from your medicine cabinet without first consulting your veterinarian. Dogs and cats often don’t metabolize human medications the same way people do.

Finally, avoid punishing your pet if they’re acting out, this could exacerbate their fear. Here are some positive ways to help your pet:

An interior graphic detailing seven different methods to help soothe your pet's fear of fireworks.

Long-term management

To help lower your pet’s stress level long-term, your veterinarian may also recommend a form of desensitization and counterconditioning. An example of desensitization is to expose the dog to an audio recording of fireworks at a very low volume so it doesn’t provoke fear. Over time, the dog should begin to ignore it. Gradually, over the course of several weeks, increase the volume.

At the same time, you can add counterconditioning, which involves pairing a positive stimulus, such as a treat or play, with a negative stimulus, like the sound of fireworks. Ideally, the dog will eventually replace its fearful response to loud noises with a more comfortable association.

Lymphoma in Dogs

A brown dog sitting down next to text that reads, ‘Understanding Lymphoma’.

Thanks to advances in veterinary medicine, nutrition and good daily care from owners like you, dogs are living longer than ever before. But unfortunately, pets can be diagnosed with cancer, especially as grey creeps into the fur around their faces.

One of the most common pet cancers is lymphoma in dogs. As you might know, cancer occurs when there is uncontrolled division (and proliferation) of abnormal cells. In the case of dog lymphoma, a group of cells in the immune system called lymphocytes go haywire and continue to multiply.

Lymphoma can affect dogs of any breed and any age, but it’s more frequently diagnosed in middle-aged and older dogs.

RISK FACTORS

No one is sure what, exactly, causes lymphoma in dogs.

Since certain breeds, such as golden retrievers, tend to be more affected than others, it’s possible there’s a genetic component to lymphoma in dogs.

SIGNS TO WATCH FOR

Because lymphocytes can travel anywhere in the body, dog lymphoma may be widespread, or it can be localized to particular organs, including the gastrointestinal (GI) tract, spleen, liver, bone marrow, skin, central nervous system or other organs. As a result, the signs can vary, depending on what part of the body is affected. Some pets may just show general signs that they don’t feel well, such as lethargy and loss of appetite.

For lymphoma in dogs, it’s common to have one or more firm, swollen lymph nodes that can be seen or felt in locations such as the neck and behind the knee. The lymph nodes can enlarge quickly and potentially press against other body parts, compromising function. Lymph nodes in the neck, for example, can compress the trachea, making it difficult for the dog to breathe.

LYMPHOMA DIAGNOSIS IN DOGS

The diagnosis is usually made by taking a sample of the malignant cells, either through a fine-needle aspirate or a biopsy of an affected organ. By analyzing a biopsy sample, a specialist can determine whether the cancer is low, intermediate or high grade, depending on how rapidly the cells appear to be dividing. High-grade lymphoma in dogs is typically considered more malignant, but in some cases may be more responsive to treatment.

Other tests may be recommended such as blood tests (including feline leukemia testing in cats) and a urinalysis, to assess the pet’s overall health.

Once a diagnosis is made, dog lymphoma is typically classified by the anatomic area affected, type of lymphocyte (T-cell or B-cell) and by stages, to determine the extent of the disease, potential treatments and prognosis and to monitor response to therapy. Other tests may be needed, including a bone marrow biopsy, X-rays and an ultrasound.

The stages range from I to V, with a single lymph node involvement in stage I to bone marrow or other organ involvement in stage V. Each stage also has a substage, depending on whether the animal is showing signs of illness. Dogs may progress from one stage to the next over time.

PROGNOSIS AND TREATMENT

The prognosis for pets with lymphoma depends on a number of factors including overall health, stage of the disease and type of tumor.

Your veterinarian or a veterinary oncologist (a cancer specialist) can outline treatments that can help your pet feel more comfortable and potentially put the cancer in remission, although this is usually temporary.

Because dog lymphoma is generally considered a systemic disease, some type of chemotherapy is usually recommended. Dogs typically tolerate chemotherapy fairly well, without as many side effects as humans. If the cancer is localized to a specific area, surgery or radiation therapy may be options. Your veterinarian can help you decide the right approach for you and your pet.

Can Cats Eat Catnip?

A black and tan striped cat lying on the floor staring at a ball of catnip.

If you’re wondering if your cat can have catnip, the answer is a resounding yes! Catnip is safe for cats and is a great way to add some entertainment to your cat’s (and your) life. But it’s a roll of the dice whether your cat will respond to catnip. Some cats don’t experience any effects, some cats drool and chill out, while other cats take off in a burst of energy and ricochet around the room!

Is Catnip Bad for Cats?

The good news is that catnip is nontoxic and safe for cats. In fact, it’s often used as a form of enrichment for indoor cats to help prevent boredom and stress and keep your cat happy. As well as fresh catnip, you can purchase dried catnip and catnip spray, as well as catnip balls, bubbles and chew sticks. You can also buy your kitty catnip-infused toys or toys that can be refilled with dried catnip.

About the Catnip Plant

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a perennial herb in the same mint family as peppermint and spearmint. It is native to Europe, Asia and Africa, and was thought to have been brought to North America by settlers. Catnip is now considered a pesky weed, but it also remains a favorite in the herb gardens of cat owners who like to grow fresh catnip.

The catnip plant contains several essential oils and other compounds that are stored in tiny bulbs that cover the leaves, stems and seedpods of the plant. The oils are released when a cat (or other animal) brushes up against the plant. The release of one compound in particular, nepetalactone, is why some cats react to catnip.

How Does Catnip Work?

The mood-altering effect of catnip is associated with a cat’s sense of smell. Nepetalactone, the active ingredient in catnip, rapidly changes from a liquid to a gas and binds to receptors in a cat’s nose. So the effect of nepetalactone on a cat’s brain is from the system responsible for a cat’s sense of smell — not from eating catnip.

Can Cats Overdose on Catnip?

No, cats can’t overdose on catnip, but they can get an upset tummy if they eat too much. There’s also no need to worry about your cat getting addicted to catnip. However, if cats are exposed to catnip too frequently, they can become accustomed to the effects. So it’s best to limit your cat’s access to catnip.

The Catnip Effect Isn’t Guaranteed

Only about 50 to 80 percent of cats are sensitive to nepetalactone, so not all cats will experience the catnip “buzz.” For some cats, catnip causes them to be very active and playful whereas other cats become calm and mellow. Most cats who are sensitive to nepetalactone will respond by displaying some of these behaviors:

  • Sniffing, licking and biting
  • Shaking their heads
  • Rubbing their heads, chins or cheeks against it
  • Rolling over
  • Drooling
  • Vocalizing
  • Kicking the catnip with their back paws

The euphoria that catnip brings cats doesn’t last long, typically 5–15 minutes. After that, they’ll be temporarily “immune” to the intoxicating effects of the ’nip for about two hours.

If your cat doesn’t respond to catnip, there are other plants you can try like silvervine and Tatarian honeysuckle. These plants are also nontoxic and non-addictive for cats and can also be used as a form of enrichment.

Can Kittens Have Catnip?

Kittens can experience catnip safely, but if they’re less than 3 to 6 months old, they typically won’t respond to it and may actually turn their nose up at it. Whether or not an older kitten will react to catnip depends on their parents — the reaction to catnip is hereditary. The catnip effect is caused by multiple genes, and without those genes, your cat will think catnip is just another boring plant.

How Much Catnip Is Too Much Catnip?

Eating too much catnip can cause an upset stomach. If your cat has overindulged, you may notice vomiting and diarrhea that will resolve over time. Contact your veterinarian if you’re worried about the vomiting and diarrhea, especially if you think your cat might be dehydrated. Limiting your cat’s access to catnip will help prevent future tummy problems.

Does Catnip Affect Other Animals?

Some big cats also react to catnip. Lions, jaguars, leopards and snow leopards appear to be sensitive to catnip, but tigers, not so much. Dogs can react mildly to catnip but it only has a sedative effect on them, which is why it’s sometimes used to reduce anxiety. Dogs won’t experience the burst of energy like some cats.

Catnip Benefits Go Beyond Feeling Gooood

Catnip is mostly used as enrichment for cats, but cats may have another reason for being attracted to it. Nepetalactone is an effective mosquito repellent, so it’s possible that cats rub their heads in catnip to fend off annoying and possibly harmful mosquitoes. Whatever the reason, some cats definitely go crazy for catnip!

What’s the Right Way to Remove a Tick?

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Only you know that special hollow, at the base of your dog’s neck, where you can scritch and send a hind paw banging on the floor, scratching at a phantom itch. But wait… what’s this? You part the hair. Eeewww, it’s a bloated tick.

If it’s an adult deer tick, it can latch on with a tenacity unmatched by most other ticks. First, the tick inserts its long mouthparts, which are barbed to firmly anchor it to the host. Then, the tick secretes a cement-like substance that bonds it to the skin until it’s satiated and ready to drop off.

Still, a deer tick must feed for 24 to 48 hours before it can transmit the organisms responsible for Lyme disease. Removing the tick as soon as you find it reduces your dog’s risk for Lyme or other tick-borne diseases. As part of Prevention of Lyme Disease in Dogs Month, we’re sharing the right — and not-so-right — ways to remove a tick.

Avoid these tick removal methods

There’s a lot of misinformation on the internet, including the following tick removal suggestions, which should be filed under “Bad ideas”:

  • Pinch the tick between your thumb and forefinger and pull it out — Many (but not all) ticks are infected with pathogens, or disease-causing agents. Pressing on the tick body may actually force pathogens in the tick gut into your pet.
  • Burn the tick with a lit match or lighter — Some claim applying heat to the tick body will make it back out of the skin. In reality, heat may cause the tick to regurgitate gut contents into the bite. And chances are good that you could burn your pet’s skin or hair.
  • Suffocate the tick with petroleum jelly, fingernail polish, alcohol or essential oils. Ticks generally only breathe between 1 and 15 times an hour out of spiracles, or openings on the sides of their bodies. While the tick may back out to escape the irritating solution, it will probably disgorge gut contents into the pet first.

So how to you get the darn thing off?

Tick removal the right way

If your dog is covered with hundreds of ticks, call your veterinarian. He or she can recommend a fast-acting tick-killing product for the majority of ticks, and the remaining ticks can be removed manually.

If you’ve only found a few ticks on your dog, removing them is relatively easy:

An interior graphic detailing eight tips for safely removing a tick from your pet.

Not all ticks carry disease-causing agents, but it’s a good idea to watch your dog for signs of tick-borne illnesses such as Lyme disease for a few weeks after tick removal. Signs of Lyme disease may include lethargy, loss of appetite and shifting-leg lameness. Remember, flea and tick prevention is always important. Your veterinarian can also recommend tick preventives to help kill ticks that come in contact with your dog.

Road Trip! RV Life with Pets

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Some people travel with garden gnomes, posting photos at famous landmarks. But we’re guessing snapshots of your dog or cat in front of an alien spaceship in Roswell, New Mexico, would garner a lot more attention.

Isn’t it time to indulge your pent-up wanderlust, load up the recreational vehicle with pets, then hit the road? All it takes is a little planning. Here are some suggestions to help make your wilderness adventure with your favorite four-footed friends a success.

Map your trip. Not every campsite accepts pets. Once you have a general idea of where you want to go, find pet-friendly RV parks or campsites along the way. Some campsites offer fenced-in play areas for dogs, which is a great way to wear off energy after a long drive.

Meet with your veterinarian. Your pet should be current on all vaccines. Many campsites will ask for proof of vaccination, so ask for vaccination records and other pertinent medical records. You typically won’t need a health certificate when driving with your pet, but it’s a good idea to check the U.S. Department of Agriculture for the states you’ll visit, just to be sure.

Now’s the time to stock up on medications as well as flea/tick/heartworm preventives to last the whole trip.

Help your pet feel at home. A few weeks before you travel, give your pet a chance to get accustomed to RV living. Start by letting them explore the RV interior in your driveway, so they can get used to where their food, water, beds or litter boxes are located. Provide them with positive reinforcement in the form of treats and praise.

Then, try a few short rides (now’s the best time to find out if they get carsick). If you’re towing a camper, your pet will need to ride in the car.  Make sure you have a seat-halter system or a way to secure their kennel to keep them safe. If you’re driving an RV, your pets will still need to be inside a secured kennel to help prevent injury if you make any sudden stops.

Get your pet’s identification in order. If your pet wanders away at a rest stop or campsite, a current ID tag is the best way to get them back to you. All pets should have an ID tag with your address and cell phone. If your pet has a microchip, check with the manufacturer to make sure they have your current contact information. It can’t hurt to pack a current photo of your pet in case you need to make Lost Pet posters.

Make a pet packing list. You don’t want to be stranded in the middle of the wilderness without a pet necessity. So, start making a list of everything your pet will need, such as: food, bowls, medications, beds, kennels, leashes, litter box, toys, poop bags, swimming life vest, pet sunscreen, playpen for campsite, and a pet first aid kit.

On the road. Schedule stops every few hours, so your pet gets a chance to stretch his or her legs and take care of potty business. Better yet, take a hike along the shoreline or into the woods. Always keep your dog on leash so it doesn’t bolt at an unfamiliar sound or sight.

At the campsite. Always be respectful of your neighbors, which means picking up after your dog, holding barking to a minimum and keeping your dog on a leash so it doesn’t snatch hot dogs off the neighbor’s grill, or worse, wander off.

If you leave your pet behind. You can plan short excursions without your pet, but try not to leave them in the RV for long periods of time. If the weather is hot, make sure to leave the air conditioner and fans on so your pet stays cool.

What are you waiting for? Time to start planning.

How to Help a Poisoned Pet

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Curious pets have a way of getting into things they shouldn’t. Maybe your dog nosed through the garbage can. Or your cat gnawed on a new houseplant. Or a pet pried open the bottle of human medications in your backpack.

Dogs and cats are often inadvertently poisoned by ingesting toxins, but like people, they can also be poisoned by inhaling noxious fumes or if their skin comes into contact with certain chemicals.

When exposed to toxins, a healthy pet can become ill before you know it. Of course, the severity and timing of signs varies depending on the toxin involved. Signs like lethargy or loss of appetite can be subtle or they can be severe, ranging from vomiting and diarrhea to collapse and seizures.

Would you know what to do, if you suspect your pet has been poisoned?

Practice poison prevention

Help protect your pet from poisoning with the following:

Know about potential poisons. When you’re aware that many common lilies can be toxic to cats, you can keep them out of your house.  Visit the Pet Poison Helpline to learn what plants, household and garden items may cause trouble. For cats, common toxins include acetaminophen, flea and tick medications containing pyrethrin, and human antidepressants. The list for dogs includes chocolate, the artificial sweetener xylitol and grapes.

Store toxins out of paw’s reach. Carefully place household, yard and automotive chemicals where pets can’t access them. Replace toxic house and garden plants with pet-safe versions. Secure rodenticides where mice can access them but pets can’t. All human and pet medications should be kept in a medicine cabinet or drawer. Never leave human foods in places where counter surfers can reach them.

Keep important numbers close. Program the following numbers into your phone, so they’re close at hand: your regular veterinarian (if potential poisoning happens during regular business hours), the closest 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic (for after hours) and ASPCA Poison Control (888) 426-4435 or the Pet Poison Helpline at (855) 764-7661 (there may be a fee).

Be prepared for an emergency. Keep 3 percent hydrogen peroxide in your medicine cabinet, in case your veterinarian asks you to induce vomiting in your dog. Replace the bottle when it reaches the expiration date. It may help to have a syringe on hand, for administration. Hydrogen peroxide is only for use in dogs; there is no at-home medication to induce vomiting in cats. Avoid internet suggestions for making your pet vomit, such as using vegetable oil or salt.

With any toxin exposure, act fast

If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, contact your veterinarian immediately, even if your pet is acting normal. The sooner your pet can be treated, the more likely it is for a good prognosis. Other important steps include:

Try to identify the toxin involved. If possible, bring the product packaging, plant, medication or photos of the poisoning site to the clinic. This will help the doctor better identify the toxin so the appropriate treatment can be started as soon as possible.

Bring a vomit sample to the vet in a clear, plastic bag. If you’re unsure what your pet may have gotten into, the vomit may contain materials that can help your veterinarian identify potential toxins.

Never induce vomiting or provide treatment unless directed by your veterinarian. Some toxins can cause damage to the esophagus, mouth or nose, or be aspirated into the lungs if vomiting is induced. Do not induce vomiting if your dog is unconscious, unable to stand, is having trouble breathing or is having a seizure. Giving your pet milk will not neutralize the toxin. And never give any human over-the-counter medicine as a treatment, unless you are asked to do so by your veterinarian.

Even if you’re careful, toxin exposure can happen. Knowing when your pet may be in trouble and seeking immediate veterinary help are the best ways to help keep your pet safe and healthy.