Behind the Breed: Yorkshire Terrier

Taste of the Wild

Beneath the silken, lustrous coat of the Yorkshire terrier, or “Yorkie,” lies the heart of a feisty companion equally as eager to work as to snuggle.

Hailing from Yorkshire, England, the Yorkie was bred in the 19th century by cotton and wool workers from Scotland who had immigrated in search of work. These workers needed a ratting terrier that was scrappy and could keep the mills and workspaces free of rodents and disease-carrying mice, so they bred black-and-tan terriers with what was then known as a Clydesdale terrier. And so the Yorkie was born.

Because of their small size and scrappy demeanor, Yorkies were the agile, lively and responsive ratter the workers needed, often catching vermin with ease. As their popularity spread and their work wasn’t needed as much, Yorkies became the favorite lapdogs of Victorians everywhere.

The “Tomboy Toy”

Much like the French bulldog, Yorkies have become incredibly popular family pets. Their tenacious personalities and dogged determination have earned them the nickname “the tomboy toy,” and their confidence helps them excel today at all dog sports including agility and “Fast CAT,” a timed 100-yard dash. Because of their innate ratting abilities, Yorkies also often accompany hunters to flush out prey in the field.

The Yorkshire terrier is among the most popular toy breeds in America, and because of their size (between 5 and 7 pounds), they are often named the most popular dog breed in many American cities. City-dwelling Yorkies can often be seen sporting their long, luxurious coats, which are tan on the head and a steely gray on the body. Frequently compared to human hair, the coat of a Yorkie, when long, rarely sheds but does need constant grooming. Most owners prefer a “puppy coat” that’s clipped and scruffy for easier care.

The American Kennel Club recognized Yorkies as a breed in 1872, and as members of the Toy Group are described as alert, compact and spirited. Health issues can include bronchitis and a delicate digestive system, but given the right environment and attention, a Yorkie can be a companion who delights and entertains for years.

Yorkie quick facts.

RELATED POST: Behind the Breed: Cocker Spaniel

At-Home Dental Care for Your Dog

Taste of the Wild

Does this sound familiar? You’re sitting on the couch, your dog climbs up for some snuggles and “Uck, what is that smell?!” Doggy breath. Every dog parent has probably experienced it at some point. But the good news is that by performing at-home dental care, you can help prevent doggy breath and keep your dog’s teeth and gums healthier — which keeps your dog healthier. And it’s not as hard as it sounds — with some training and plenty of patience.

Gum Disease Can Go Unnoticed

Your dog’s teeth may look pretty clean, but there could be inflammation lurking beneath the surface. The buildup of plaque and tartar can allow bacteria to invade under the gum line, causing painful inflammation called periodontal or gum disease. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, gum disease is the most common oral problem veterinarians seen in dogs, with most dogs having some degree of periodontal disease by the time they’re three years old.

The early stages of gum disease often go unnoticed, which is why it’s important to brush your dog’s teeth regularly, even if they look fairly clean. You don’t want gum disease to progress, as it can allow bacteria to enter the bloodstream and damage other organs.

Brush, Brush, Brush Those Teeth

The best way to fight plaque and gum disease is by brushing your dog’s teeth — preferably daily. You can use a finger brush, a pet toothbrush, a child’s toothbrush or gauze wrapped around your finger. Make sure you use dog-friendly toothpaste as human toothpaste can cause an upset tummy. Dogs will like the taste of the pet toothpaste better anyway, since it comes in flavors like poultry and peanut.

Start by letting your dog lick a small amount of their toothpaste from your finger. Then introduce their toothbrush by letting them lick the toothpaste from it. Gently rub the toothbrush under your dog’s chin and gradually work up to touching their lips and rubbing along their gums. Once they’re used to the brush, place the toothbrush in their mouth and focus on brushing the outside surfaces. Keep in mind that it may take a few months of training before you can brush your dog’s teeth successfully.

Chewing Things Can Be a Good Thing

Most dogs like to chew on all sorts of objects — including some things that we wish they wouldn’t. But the right object to chew on can be helpful in keeping your dog’s teeth clean and reducing tartar buildup. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) has a list of VOHC-approved foods and chew treats, as well as toothbrushes, toothpastes, dental wipes and water additives that have been proven to help reduce plaque and tartar on dogs’ teeth.

Hard treats or toys (e.g., bones, antlers, hard nylon toys) are not recommended as they can break your dog’s teeth or possibly shatter and be swallowed, leading to gastrointestinal tract blockage or damage. Toys or treats that have some give in them are better choices for your dog to chew on and get those teeth cleaner. The American Animal Hospital Association has a graphic showing common products that may cause problems for your dog.

If Brushing Is a No, Try an Antiseptic Rinse

If you’ve tried and tried and your dog just doesn’t like having their teeth brushed, you could try an anti-plaque antiseptic rinse like chlorhexidine. Available as a gel or liquid, chlorhexidine is safe for pets with few negative side effects, although it may taste icky to your dog.

Professional Cleanings Are Important, Too

To help keep our teeth and gums healthy, it’s recommended that people brush their teeth twice a day and visit the dentist regularly for a professional cleaning. The same recommendation applies to dogs, too. Daily brushing can help remove plaque, but a professional cleaning performed by your veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary dentist is necessary to remove the tartar that’s above and below the gum line. Your veterinarian will likely perform these cleanings under anesthesia so they can conduct a thorough cleaning that’s also comfortable for your dog.

At-home dental care is probably not going to be high on your dog’s list of fun things to do — particularly when you first start out. But hopefully over time and with lots of praise and rewards they will become used to it and dental care can become just another (but important) part of your daily routine.

RELATED POST: Are Small Dogs More Prone to Dental Disease?

What Happens at Your Dog’s Annual Checkup?

Taste of the Wild

Your veterinarian has probably recommended that your dog visit the clinic at least once a year for a checkup. But if your dog appears healthy, should you still go? And what exactly is your veterinarian looking for during the exam? Here’s what to expect at your dog’s checkup.

A Healthy Dog Still Needs an Annual Checkup

If your dog doesn’t feel good, they will often try to hide their sickness or pain from you — a behavior their ancestors likely used so they wouldn’t appear weak to predators. By visiting the veterinary clinic for an annual checkup, your veterinarian can look for any health issues your dog may have that aren’t obvious to you. It also establishes a baseline for future visits and allows you and your veterinarian to keep track of your dog’s health status over time.

Most dogs that are healthy probably only need to have a checkup once a year. But your dog may need more frequent checkups, depending on their age (e.g., puppies and senior dogs), health status (e.g., dogs with a chronic disease) and breed (e.g., some breeds are more prone to certain diseases). Your veterinarian will recommend how often to bring your dog to the clinic.

During the visit, your veterinarian will ask questions to learn more about your dog’s history, perform a physical examination and possibly perform routine laboratory or screening tests. This information can help your veterinarian determine if your dog has a disease in an early stage that isn’t showing obvious symptoms yet (e.g., diabetes, chronic kidney disease) or if they have an infectious disease (e.g., Lyme disease, heartworm disease, or canine parvovirus).

Tell Me About Your Dog

To help your veterinarian get a complete picture of your dog’s health, they will ask you some questions about your dog’s behavior, bathroom habits, nutrition, general health and exercise routines (among others). It may be useful to think about the answers to these questions ahead of time so you are ready to answer them at the clinic.

This is also a great time for you to ask any questions you have about your dog. Is there a behavior you would like to curb but need some help on how to do it? Do you have questions about which food your dog should be eating or how much they should be eating? Writing them down before your dog’s appointment can help you remember what to ask while you’re there.

Let’s Get Physical

Part of the examination will include palpating (feeling around) your dog’s body to check for any issues with their skin, coat, mouth (teeth and gums), eyes, ears, abdomen, muscles (and how they walk) and their general condition. While they’re looking your dog over, they will also check for external parasites (e.g., ticks, fleas or mites). Your veterinarian will listen to your dog’s heart and lungs to make sure they’re healthy, take their temperature and also check that your dog’s weight and body condition score are in a healthy range for their age and breed.

What’s Going on Inside Your Dog?

A physical examination can help your veterinarian check for external problems, but laboratory tests may be recommended to check for issues that your veterinarian can’t see. They may recommend collecting blood, urine, fecal or other samples from your dog to get a more complete picture of your dog’s health. They may also ask you to bring a fecal sample to the appointment so they can check for intestinal parasites (e.g., hookworm, roundworm, tapeworm).

If your dog has a medical condition, they can use the results of these laboratory tests and also the physical examination to check how the condition is progressing and if any adjustments to the treatment plan are needed.

It’s Booster Time

There are two vaccine types that your dog can receive — core and non-core vaccines. Core vaccines are considered essential for all dogs due to the exposure risk of the disease it protects against, the disease severity and its ability to be transmitted to humans. Non-core vaccines are not essential for all dogs and will be recommended by your veterinarian depending on your dog’s age, geographic location, risk of exposure and lifestyle.

Boosters are typically required for core vaccines 12 months after the last vaccination, so your dog’s annual checkup is the perfect time for these boosters. Some vaccines may have different schedules; for example, there is a rabies vaccine that can be given every three years instead of every year. Your veterinarian will determine which vaccines your dog needs and how often they are needed.

Help Make the Clinic Visit a Happy One

Dogs can become stressed about visiting the veterinary clinic, but there are things you can do to help them remain calm — including staying calm yourself. Your dog could pick up on any anxiety you’re feeling and feel less secure themselves, so try to keep a positive, relaxed demeanor before, during and after the visit. It may also help to stop by the veterinary clinic for a social visit occasionally so that your dog doesn’t associate the clinic only with examinations, laboratory tests or other procedures. If they’re lucky, they may get a treat for visiting, too!

Hopefully your dog’s annual checkup will end with a “You’re all good. See you next year!” But if your veterinarian does have some concerns, they may recommend further testing, a change of diet, a lifestyle change or starting/changing prescription medication — all with the goal of keeping your dog healthy and ready for more adventures with you.

RELATED POST: Are Pet Wellness Plans Worth It?

Fueling Your Puppy’s Growth with the Right Food

Taste of the Wild

If there’s one thing puppies like to do (other than chew), it’s eat. Food is what fuels their rapid growth and development, which is why it’s important that the food they eat helps them grow and develop properly.

Once you bring your puppy home (and name them), it’s important to understand that puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs, and puppies of different breeds and sizes have different nutritional requirements. For example, a dachshund will reach their mature size and weight a lot quicker than a large breed pup like a Great Dane, so they will have different nutritional requirements. Keep reading to learn about how puppy growth rates affect nutrient requirements and the food options that are available for your puppy.

Puppies Reach Adult Size at Different Ages

Dog breeds are typically categorized as small (including toy and teacup), medium and large (including giant). As adults, small breeds are usually less than 20 pounds, medium breeds range between 25 and 55 pounds and large breeds are more than 50 pounds — although the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) uses 70 pounds or more for their large breed definition.

All puppies grow rapidly during the first 3 to 6 months of life. Small breed dogs will end their rapid growth period earlier (around 3 months of age) compared to giant breed puppies, who will continue growing rapidly for a couple more months. The graph below shows the growth rates of puppies from a range of breeds of different sizes.

Body-weight changes during growth in puppies of different breeds.
Adapted from Hawthorne AJ, Booles D, Nugent PA, Gettinby G, Wilkinson J. Body-weight changes during growth in puppies of different breeds. J Nutr. 2004;134(8 Suppl):2027S-2030S.

When your puppy celebrates their first birthday, they are officially considered an adult dog. But that doesn’t necessarily mean they have reached their adult size, as not all puppies reach adult size by 12 months. Toy, small and some medium-sized dogs reach adult size at around 8 to 10 months of age, while other medium dogs take until 9 to 12 months. Large and giant breeds don’t typically reach mature size until around 11 to 15 months, with some giant breeds reaching adult size at around 18 to 24 months old.

Every dog is different, so some puppies may grow faster or slower than their breed average. Even after they reach their mature size, dogs still continue developing for several more months — for example, after their bones have fully developed they will continue to add fat and muscle. To support all of this growth and development, they need to receive a complete and balanced diet that contains the right nutrients in the correct amounts.

Puppies Are Full of Energy — and So Is Their Food

Compared to adult dogs, puppies have a greater requirement for energy (calories), amino acids, and minerals such as calcium and phosphorus (for strong bones) and copper and zinc (for healthy immune systems). Puppies can also benefit from increased levels of the omega-3 fatty acid DHA (docosahexaenoic acid), which is important for brain and vision development.

Energy is the most important factor affecting puppy growth rates. Early in life, about half of a puppy’s caloric intake goes toward growth, but as they get older and their growth rate slows, so do their energy needs. Puppies obtain most of their energy from the fats and carbohydrates in their food, which is why you’ll find higher fat levels in puppy foods.

Calcium is important for puppy growth and development, but too much calcium in the diet can also be a bad thing. During the rapid growth period, puppies can have trouble regulating calcium absorption in their body as that mechanism isn’t fully mature. Large breed puppies tend to be more sensitive to excessive dietary calcium than small and medium breeds, and it can negatively affect their skeletal formation and growth. Once the calcium absorption process in their small intestine is fully mature, they can protect themselves better from absorbing too much calcium from their diet.

Choosing the Right Food for Your Pup

Puppies can eat food formulated for puppies or they can eat an all-life-stages food. Some formulas labeled for puppies, like High Prairie Puppy Recipe with Roasted Bison & Roasted Venison and Pacific Stream Puppy Recipe with Smoke-Flavored Salmon provide the nutrients puppies need in an easy-to-enjoy small kibble size. Both of these formulas have guaranteed levels of DHA and perfectly balanced nutrition, which means they can be fed to pregnant or nursing mothers or other adult dogs, too.

If you have a large breed puppy, make sure you check for a specific AAFCO statement on the label. AAFCO uses life stages, not weight, to distinguish between their nutrient profile categories — with one exception. If a growth or all-life-stages dog food has been formulated to meet the nutritional requirements specified in the AAFCO dog food nutrient profiles, the statement must specifically state if the food meets the growth of large size dogs. Two example AAFCO statements are below.

In this example, the second recipe is formulated for small breeds and doesn’t meet the AAFCO requirements for the growth of large size dogs.

How Much Should Your Puppy Eat?

Some puppies will guzzle down as much food as you give them. But while puppy rolls are cute, it’s important for your puppy’s long-term health that they eat an amount appropriate for their age and size. Veterinarians recommend feeding a measured amount of food at each meal to avoid obesity issues later in life. The feeding guide on the dog food package can be used as a starting point on how much to feed, but this may need to be adjusted to keep your puppy within their ideal body condition range.

How often you feed your puppy depends on their age. Nutritionists recommend feeding puppies at least two meals and possibly three or four meals daily until your puppy reaches 4 to 6 months of age (the rapid growth period). After 6 months, two meals a day is the recommended amount, but some large and giant breeds may benefit from three feedings.

Nutrition is an important part of ensuring your puppy grows up to become a healthy adult dog. If you have questions about which food or how much food to feed your puppy, ask your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist for advice.

RELATED POST: A Taste of the Wild Guide to Choosing the Right Pet Food

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

What Happens at Your Cat’s Checkup?

Taste of the Wild

Wellness exams for your cat are necessary appointments to make — just like an annual physical is needed for our own preventative care. But what can you expect during your cat’s checkup? Your cat may have some questions about what to expect during a checkup exam, too.

Typically, this vet visit won’t last more than 30 minutes, yet within that small window of time your veterinarian will be checking your furry companion from whiskers to tail.

How Many Checkups?

Kittens need to visit the vet every month until they receive their last round of shots at four months old. Then the kitten(s) can begin their yearly visits. Cats older than one year of age should visit the vet at least once a year for their wellness exam and senior cats are recommended to visit the vet every six months.

If your furry feline has underlying health conditions, your local veterinarian will develop a plan specifically for Mittens and the health condition they are tackling.

Gathering Info for the Veterinarian

Once you’re in the exam room, the veterinarian technician or assistant will ask key questions about your feline’s gender, diet, appetite, litter box activity, and whether there have been any potential concerns or changes in behavior. They’ll place your answers in Mitten’s file for the veterinarian and for future visits.

Next, it’s time to get your feline’s weight, body temperature, heart rate and respiratory rate. Your cat’s temperature will be taken with a rectal thermometer, so if your pet is really anxious this step may be skipped for now. They may loop back to it later after Mittens has calmed down or attempt a different method.

The Doctor Will See You Now

After all pertinent information has been collected, the veterinarian will evaluate your pet’s chart and then examine the cat’s overall appearance.

Your veterinarian will review the following:

  • Body condition: Is Mittens at an ideal weight for their breed and age? Does your feline have any hair loss or inflammation? How does their coat look overall?
  • Heart and lungs: When the vet listens to your cat’s heart and lungs, how do they sound?
  • Abdominal palpation: Does your cat have any tenderness in the abdomen? Are there any abdominal masses?
  • Alertness: Does your cat appear responsive and aware of their surroundings? Your veterinarian will look at your feline’s eyes and body language to measure.
  • Walk: Is Mittens walking with a limp? Are they steady on their paws? Does their body seem stiff at all?
  • Mouth: How are those pearly whites looking? Is periodontal disease present?
  • Ears: Is there any wax buildup? What about ear mites or yeast infections? And do they seem to be hearing everything going on currently?
  • Nose: How is their nasal cavity looking? Can they breathe well?
  • Eyes: Coming back to their eyes, is there any sign of infection or irritation? Do they seem to follow movement well with both eyes?

Using this info, the veterinarian can make a well-rounded assessment on your cat’s overall health. They’ll discuss any concerns, if tests are a necessary next step in evaluating your pet’s health, vaccination suggestions/reminders and if any dietary changes are needed.

This is the perfect time for you to ask any questions you have as well. Your veterinarian is there to help provide answers and clarifications along the way.

The Cost of Good Health

A point of anxiety for pet owners can be the financial costs associated with a vet visit. It’s understandable, as the costs for most goods and services continue to rise.

However, your veterinarian’s team wants the best for Mittens, just as you do, so they’re more than happy to walk you through the financial aspect. The team can provide you with a breakdown of how much the exam is with potential tests or vaccinations BEFORE agreeing to all the recommendations from today’s visit.

When discussing the costs, they can also help you understand what needs to be done that day versus waiting (if possible) until the next visit.

Additionally, wellness exams can deter later costs. For example, detecting plaque buildup on your cat’s teeth today can assist you in better managing the situation and prevent costs associated with periodontal disease, oral cancer or other health concerns that could develop from not caring for the issue present day.

So, what are you waiting for? Let’s get Mittens that wellness exam booked. A checkup today can equal a happier, healthier cat tomorrow.

RELATED POST: Take the Stress Out of Vet Visits for Your Cat

Are Pets’ Mouths REALLY Cleaner Than Humans’?

Taste of the Wild

Whether your dog is leaning in for a big slobbery kiss or your cat is insisting on drinking out of your water cup, it’s not uncommon to think, “Oh, it’s fine! Pets’ mouths are cleaner than our own.”

Is this somewhat prevalent belief true, though?

The short answer is “Maybe.” If you clean Fido’s mouth more than your own, then yes, they might have a cleaner mouth than you. However, if you’re not brushing your pet’s teeth multiple times a day, then it’s safe to say your pet does not have a cleaner mouth than you (assuming you do brush your own teeth regularly!). Unbrushed teeth are prone to bacteria buildup, and there could even be parasites hiding in your pet’s mouth.

Lower Bacteria Count, Higher Health Outcomes

We’re told that flossing and brushing our teeth twice a day will reduce the bacteria in our mouths, leading to healthier gums and teeth as well as fresher smelling breath. The same holds true for pets. Veterinarians agree that regularly brushing your pet’s teeth can reduce the overall number of bacteria in their mouths, helping to prevent periodontal disease and bad breath. Also, like with humans, not brushing your pet’s teeth could lead to heart, liver or kidney issues.

You can reduce bacteria by brushing your pet’s teeth at least once a day. Dog and cat toothbrushes as well as toothpaste can be found at your local pet store. Never reach for the human toothpaste when brushing your pet’s teeth. What may be safe for us is harmful to our pets.

Infectious Saliva and Open Wounds

Researchers have found that both humans and dogs have roughly 600 different types of bacteria in their mouths. Cats, on the other hand, have about 200 different types of bacteria in their mouths — and no, that does not mean cats have the cleanest of all mouths. Bacteria are still bacteria.

The types of bacteria in your pet’s mouth are dependent on the animal’s genetics, diet, lifestyle and hygiene habits. It’s important to remember that not all bacteria are bad — some are actually helpful. But too much bacteria, or bacteria that gets where it shouldn’t be, like in the bloodstream through scratches, licks or bites, isn’t good for anyone.

If you have any sort of open wound — a scratch, a small puncture from kitty teeth or anything like it — your first reaction should be to care for the wound before your pet can lick the spot in question. While hugs and kisses from your pet can bring comfort, their saliva can pass along diseases or cause an infection when they lick the punctured skin.

Capnocytophaga canimorsus is a common bacteria found in the mouths of both cats and dogs and serves as a good example of why you should heed this advice. If this bacteria strand is transmitted into an individual’s open wound AND they have a weakened immune system, the injury could become infected leading to sepsis or death if proper medical care is not sought. This is a rare occurrence – especially for people who have healthy immune systems – but nonetheless something to be aware of moving forward.

In the case of pets who live or play outside, you have the added possibility they could transfer parasites they picked up from putting dirt, feces or small animals in their mouth. You don’t want to introduce bacteria or parasites to that wound, so keep it clean and covered.

Just remember: If you have a wound and a pet licks it, immediately clean it out as best as you can — no matter your age or health. Then keep an eye on those wounds for any abnormalities so you can call your doctor and receive the care you might need.

Lastly, we should mention when a pet licks a wound that is already healing, their rough-textured tongue can damage your skin and reopen the sore. Take the right precautions and keep that healing wound away from your pet’s tongue.

Are Pet Kisses Dangerous, Then?

No, not necessarily! This article is not meant to make you nervous if Fido gives you a big kiss across the cheek. However, it does serve as a great reminder to brush your pet’s teeth and have caution in situations where their saliva can enter your bloodstream.

In addition to keeping your pet’s tongue away from open wounds, scientists and veterinarians say you shouldn’t encourage your pet to lick your mouth, nose and eyes. Those three spots on your face could be entry points for pathogens like E. coli into your bloodstream. So, it’s better to play it safe.

RELATED POST: Are Small Dogs More Prone to Dental Disease?

Can My Dog Eat That? CHEESE

Taste of the Wild

Welcome to “Can My Dog Eat That?,” our series that answers some obvious (and not-so-obvious) questions about what your dog can and can’t safely eat. Read on!

Cheese. Similar to avocado, it’s a snack that is easy to munch without too much guilt, right? After all, cheese is a dairy product and it’s high in calcium and protein! It’s way better than french fries or a candy bar, right? Well, perception isn’t always reality, especially when it comes to snacks that we might share with our dogs. Can dogs eat cheese? Yes, they can. Should they eat a lot of it? For all the reasons that humans might want to check their cheese intake, no.

When it comes to snacks, there are certainly worse things you can feed your dog. Most dogs can, in moderation, eat cheese without any serious repercussions outside of possibly a stinky room a few hours later. Cheese, in general, can be healthy, and dogs seem to love it. It’s a nutrient-rich treat, just like eggs are. The high amounts of calcium are good for strong teeth and bones. Vitamins A, D and B are usually prominent. Like fish, cheese is an excellent source of protein. Where’s the bad, here?

When we say that your dog can eat cheese in moderation, the term “in moderation” does a lot of heavy lifting. Cheese can be great to use as a training tool and it seems custom made for coaxing your pooch into happily scarfing pills. But cheese is almost always high in fat, and too much can cause pancreatitis. Too much for too long can cause obesity and all the issues that come with that.

Lacking Tolerance for Lactose

Dogs are much more frequently lactose intolerant than humans. As dogs age out of puppyhood, they produce less of the enzyme lactase, which helps their puppy systems digest their mother’s milk. Without (or with less of) the enzyme, adult dogs can have a very hard time digesting milk products. This doesn’t mean your dog can’t digest dairy, but it does mean that lactose can stay in their systems long enough to ferment, which can cause gas, cramps and diarrhea. There are varying degrees of lactose intolerance in dogs, and the only way to know for sure how well your dog’s system can handle it is to talk to your veterinarian — although your nose might give you a clue.

Not All Cheese Is Created Equal

To put it simply, there are a lot of cheeses out there, and they aren’t all created the same way. Some are highly processed and filled with sodium. Some are much higher in fat than others, like cheddar, Swiss and goat cheese. Cheddar and American cheese are high in cholesterol. If you want to treat your dog with healthy cheese, stick with mozzarella, ricotta and cottage cheese. There are hundreds of cheeses out there, but these are the more common varieties on both ends of the spectrum.

Of course, you can also find fat-free versions of most popular cheese varieties. Your dog’s mileage may vary!

Oh Cheese, Just Give Them Some, Already!

Yes, with a few considerations, your dog can have the occasional cheesy treat. As with every food or treat not formulated specifically for your dog, make sure to read the label very carefully. If you have any questions, consult your veterinarian.

True: dogs can eat cheese.

RELATED POST: Can My Dog Eat That: A Guide by Taste of the Wild

Behind the Breed: Shiba Inu

Taste of the Wild

The shiba inu is an ancient Japanese breed that was originally bred to hunt both small and large game, but they have become one of the country’s most popular companion animals. Brought to America from Japan only 60 years ago, shibas are good-natured and compact dogs that are often described as more like a cat than a dog.

Shibas are classified as a “basal” breed, which means they predate modern breeds that originated mostly in the 19th century. In fact, researchers have traced the breed’s origins to 7,000 B.C. Archaeologists have even found remains of shiba-like dogs in ancient sites associated with the Jomon people who lived in the Japanese archipelago from 14,000 B.C.

Before World War II, there were three common types of shiba inu: Minos, Sanins and Shunshus. But the breed almost went extinct due to the war, when many died in bombing raids or from distemper, which became incredibly common in the following years. Now, two types of shibas, the Mino and Sanin, are very rare. All surviving shibas, however, were bred from one of the three distinct bloodlines.

Firewood Dogs

“Shiba” means brushwood, while “inu” means dog, so their name literally translates to “firewood dog,” likely due to the fact that many are the color of fire kindling. Compact and muscular, male shibas measure 14 to 16 inches at the withers, while females measure 13 to 15 inches. Shibas are double coated and the outer coat, which is stiff and straight, covers a very thick and soft undercoat that is prone to shedding. They can come in black and tan, cream, red or red sesame colors and usually have white markings.

Shiba Inus Aren’t for Beginners

Their foxlike features give them a quizzical and approachable look, but they are known for their aloofness — even with their owners! It’s important for owners to set boundaries with shibas as they can have dominant personalities. This is why they are not recommended for first-time dog owners.

Overall, shibas are a healthy breed and will give their experienced owners many years of companionship.

Shiba inu quick facts.

RELATED POST: Behind the Breed: Dachshund

Cat Breeds Made For Winter Weather

Taste of the Wild

“Winter Wonderland” might be a song humans are humming this January, but not all cats enjoy the dropping temperatures. However, some cat breeds have developed the physical traits to not just survive but even enjoy colder climates. If you live where the winters are harsh (or, let’s be honest, even if you don’t), these might be the cats for you.

Siberian Cat

Siberian cat in the snow.

The title for most cold-resistant feline goes to Siberian cats. While this fluffy feline was officially recognized as a breed in the late 1980s, they were actually introduced in Siberia as early as the 17th century as a way to control the rat population.

Since Siberia is known for some of the coldest temperatures in the world, these cats went on to grow dense heavy coats to survive. Their fur became resistant to moisture and their ears are also well-insulated. This additional fluff has helped them survive temperatures as cold as 5– 14 °F until they could find shelter to hunker down.

When adapting to harsher climates, this breed developed a keen ability to think and plan ahead – making them excellent hunters and survivalists. As a house pet, you’ll notice their high level of intelligence shine through when they play or strategize their next move.

Norwegian Forest Cat

Norwegian forest cat in the snow.

Norwegian forest cats are dense-coated felines with a mysterious origin. Legend has it that this breed was the real-life inspiration for the myth of Norwegian skogkatts — large cats who lived in the mountains and had a magical ability to climb extremely rocky terrain with ease.

Norwegian forest cats are also known for their ability to run down a tree headfirst. How? This breed has sturdier claws than most cats — likely developed to survive that rocky terrain.

A cousin to the Maine coon, the Norwegian forest cat is known for its big body, bushy tail and double-layered coat used to repel moisture. As they’ve adapted to surviving snowy climates in Scandinavia, this breed has also developed tufted ears and toes to serve as natural ear warmers and booties. They’re friendly to children and usually adaptable to other pets, making them perfect family cats.

Maine Coon

Maine coon cat in the snow.

Though they originate on different continents, the Maine coon is often mistaken for the Norwegian forest cat. One way to tell the breeds apart is by looking at their faces. Maine coons have a wedge-shaped head and Norwegian forest cats have a triangle-shaped face. The Maine coon is husky breed developed naturally in the state of Maine where they experience average winter temperatures of 15 to 25 °F.

The exact age and origin story of the Main coon is still a mystery to researchers, but one thing we know for sure is that many members of this breed love spending time outside in the winter.

Maine coons have adapted to colder elements by growing a thick, luscious, semi-water-resistant coat — perfect for repelling snow and staying warm. Another unique feature this large-bodied feline possesses is winter-ready paws. Their large, wide paws act like snowshoes in the winter, preventing them from sinking into the snow as they walk. It’s a great feature to develop in a state that sees an average of 50 to 70 inches of snow along the coast and 60 to 110 inches of the winter precipitation inland.

Maine coons can be great family pets because they’re super friendly and affectionate. And they draw attention due their size: The average male Maine coon weighs more than 15 pounds, while females regularly top 10 pounds. The largest of the breed can approach a whopping 25 pounds!

Turkish Van Cat

Turkish van cat in the snow.

Turkish vans are a large, rugged and rare breed that dates back to ancient times. This active breed originated in the Lake Van area of Turkey. The vast geographical origins have caused the breed to develop a unique ability that lets their coats adapt to a wide range of climates.

When temperatures begin to drop, the Turkish van’s coat becomes longer and thicker, and tufts of hair emerge between their toes. They have a water-resistant, single-layer coat for enduring winter elements or staying dry after going for a swim in warmer months. Yes, we said swim! Another unique characteristic of Turkish vans is their love for water. A Turkish van is a strong, capable swimmer.

If you ever own a Turkish van, you’ll frequently find them in the elevated locations in your dwelling. When adapting to the environment in Europe and Asia, this breed developed strong hind legs and a fondness of jumping and climbing to see their surroundings — likely needed for survival.

Even though these cats have a history of surviving winter weather, it doesn’t mean these bundles of fur should be left out in freezing temperatures for very long. They can stand to be out in colder temperatures compared to most cats, but they do need a warm shelter when temperatures fall below 30 °F. Hardy felines can still suffer from frostbite and hypothermia!

Note: Most cats cannot tolerate anything below 45 °F for too long. Bring your pets inside or provide them with a warm refuge to prevent frostbite on their ears, tails and paws.

RELATED POST: Winter Safety Tips for Pets

Socialize Your Puppy Now for a Friendlier Tomorrow

Taste of the Wild

Socializing your puppy between 7 and 16 weeks of age can have a lasting impact on their life, although the process never really ends. Acclimating your young puppy to various sights, sounds, smells and people allows them to grow into a relaxed, confident and well-mannered adult dog. It could even save their life one day, as socialized dogs are less likely to use aggression, bite people or flee in moments of fear.

How to Begin Socializing Your Puppy

You can start nearly the moment you bring your pup home, getting them used to new sights and sounds. While supervising your puppy, let them explore their new home. Over the course of a week, gradually introduce them to unusual sounds like the vacuum cleaner, washing machine or dishwasher. Encourage them to walk on different surfaces throughout the house and yard to feel a variety of textures on their paws. And provide them with their own safe space to retreat when they need to take a break from investigating.

Seven days after your puppy has received their first round of vaccines, you can begin venturing out to places that have a low risk of infectious disease (i.e. not the dog park). This waiting period helps decrease the risk of picking up contagious diseases when greeting other dogs and humans.

Venturing Farther Away

During your puppy’s first neighborhood adventure, let them set the pace. But you need to set the mood: positive, easygoing and upbeat. They may pause to sniff a fire hydrant. They may play in a puddle of water. And they may get excited to say hello to a neighbor they have not met yet. Just roll with it! If your puppy gets scared of anything along the way, treat their fears with care. Don’t push them to interact with someone or something.

Instead, revisit the area later and bend down to your puppy’s level. Calmly talk to them while close to the object or person in question. Show them you’re not being harmed and there’s nothing to fear. Once they’ve overcome that bout of nervousness, reward your puppy with a treat and praise.

Check out our blog, “How to Train Your Puppy to Walk on a Leash” for more info about getting ready to stroll around the neighborhood.

After a few neighborhood adventures, it’s time add a few more tools to your socialization toolbox. There’s so much more to be done during this pivotal time frame!

Interacting with Other Dogs

Start small by scheduling a 30-minute playdate with a friend who has a puppy or well-behaved adult canine that is also current on their vaccinations. Pick a neutral, quieter location like someone’s house or backyard in an effort to not overstimulate your puppy. Let the doggos lead the pace of interacting with one another but make note that pet parents are not off duty. Keep your eyes on your puppy as they’re navigating this new situation and step in if your pup gets overwhelmed.

Ideally, throughout the playdate you’ll see the dogs wagging their tails, acting playful, chasing each other and wrestling.

Work up to a small group of puppy friends, exposing them to a variety of sizes and breeds along the way.

Next, consider enrolling your pooch in puppy classes or scheduling a few doggy daycare stays. Both provide your puppy an outlet to mingle, play and get used to being around a larger vaccinated group of furry faces.

Traveling to New Locations

Check to see if any places around town or a short distance away allow dogs.

In the beginning, limit travel to a 20-minute radius to help your puppy get used to car rides. Think about all the sights, smells and textures your pupper could encounter walking along an uncrowded hiking trail. Let them take it all in and use positive reinforcement when they behave in public.

As your puppy becomes more comfortable traveling to new places, seek out additional experiences for Fido. Examples could include:

  • Building a snowman with friends at a local park.
  • Visiting a botanical garden and seeing all the colorful flowers in the springtime.
  • Picking up a to-go coffee and pup cup at a noisy pet-friendly coffee shop.

Meeting All the Hoomans

Introduce Fido to family, friends and community members of all ages, genders and backgrounds. Set a goal of having your puppy meet a minimum of 100 different people before they turn 12 weeks old.

That might sound like a lofty amount, but each outing adds up quickly. Think about all the individuals you’ll encounter when you walk past a local elementary as classes get out, eat out on the patio of a restaurant, or invite your best friend and their kiddo to the dog park.

Encourage everyone to let your puppy make the first move when saying hello. Don’t be afraid of letting others know your puppy is working on their people skills. Ask the new person to hold out their hand, say hi and be patient. Over time, your puppy will likely warm up to them — and if they don’t, that’s fine. Your puppy may be all peopled out at that point. Try again tomorrow. With patience and repetition, your puppy will get the hang of peopling.

Whew! You’ve made it to week 16 with lots of adorable puppy stories to share. Now, as you take your bundle of fur to new places during week 17, 18, 19, etc., your future self and future Fido will say, “Socialization was 110% worth it!” Trust us. A relaxed, calm and well-behaved doggo is developing throughout the process.

RELATED POST: Ease the Stress on Puppies During the Adoption Process

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.