What Happens at Your Cat’s Checkup?

Taste of the Wild

Wellness exams for your cat are necessary appointments to make — just like an annual physical is needed for our own preventative care. But what can you expect during your cat’s checkup? Your cat may have some questions about what to expect during a checkup exam, too.

Typically, this vet visit won’t last more than 30 minutes, yet within that small window of time your veterinarian will be checking your furry companion from whiskers to tail.

How Many Checkups?

Kittens need to visit the vet every month until they receive their last round of shots at four months old. Then the kitten(s) can begin their yearly visits. Cats older than one year of age should visit the vet at least once a year for their wellness exam and senior cats are recommended to visit the vet every six months.

If your furry feline has underlying health conditions, your local veterinarian will develop a plan specifically for Mittens and the health condition they are tackling.

Gathering Info for the Veterinarian

Once you’re in the exam room, the veterinarian technician or assistant will ask key questions about your feline’s gender, diet, appetite, litter box activity, and whether there have been any potential concerns or changes in behavior. They’ll place your answers in Mitten’s file for the veterinarian and for future visits.

Next, it’s time to get your feline’s weight, body temperature, heart rate and respiratory rate. Your cat’s temperature will be taken with a rectal thermometer, so if your pet is really anxious this step may be skipped for now. They may loop back to it later after Mittens has calmed down or attempt a different method.

The Doctor Will See You Now

After all pertinent information has been collected, the veterinarian will evaluate your pet’s chart and then examine the cat’s overall appearance.

Your veterinarian will review the following:

  • Body condition: Is Mittens at an ideal weight for their breed and age? Does your feline have any hair loss or inflammation? How does their coat look overall?
  • Heart and lungs: When the vet listens to your cat’s heart and lungs, how do they sound?
  • Abdominal palpation: Does your cat have any tenderness in the abdomen? Are there any abdominal masses?
  • Alertness: Does your cat appear responsive and aware of their surroundings? Your veterinarian will look at your feline’s eyes and body language to measure.
  • Walk: Is Mittens walking with a limp? Are they steady on their paws? Does their body seem stiff at all?
  • Mouth: How are those pearly whites looking? Is periodontal disease present?
  • Ears: Is there any wax buildup? What about ear mites or yeast infections? And do they seem to be hearing everything going on currently?
  • Nose: How is their nasal cavity looking? Can they breathe well?
  • Eyes: Coming back to their eyes, is there any sign of infection or irritation? Do they seem to follow movement well with both eyes?

Using this info, the veterinarian can make a well-rounded assessment on your cat’s overall health. They’ll discuss any concerns, if tests are a necessary next step in evaluating your pet’s health, vaccination suggestions/reminders and if any dietary changes are needed.

This is the perfect time for you to ask any questions you have as well. Your veterinarian is there to help provide answers and clarifications along the way.

The Cost of Good Health

A point of anxiety for pet owners can be the financial costs associated with a vet visit. It’s understandable, as the costs for most goods and services continue to rise.

However, your veterinarian’s team wants the best for Mittens, just as you do, so they’re more than happy to walk you through the financial aspect. The team can provide you with a breakdown of how much the exam is with potential tests or vaccinations BEFORE agreeing to all the recommendations from today’s visit.

When discussing the costs, they can also help you understand what needs to be done that day versus waiting (if possible) until the next visit.

Additionally, wellness exams can deter later costs. For example, detecting plaque buildup on your cat’s teeth today can assist you in better managing the situation and prevent costs associated with periodontal disease, oral cancer or other health concerns that could develop from not caring for the issue present day.

So, what are you waiting for? Let’s get Mittens that wellness exam booked. A checkup today can equal a happier, healthier cat tomorrow.

RELATED POST: Take the Stress Out of Vet Visits for Your Cat

Are Pets’ Mouths REALLY Cleaner Than Humans’?

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Whether your dog is leaning in for a big slobbery kiss or your cat is insisting on drinking out of your water cup, it’s not uncommon to think, “Oh, it’s fine! Pets’ mouths are cleaner than our own.”

Is this somewhat prevalent belief true, though?

The short answer is “Maybe.” If you clean Fido’s mouth more than your own, then yes, they might have a cleaner mouth than you. However, if you’re not brushing your pet’s teeth multiple times a day, then it’s safe to say your pet does not have a cleaner mouth than you (assuming you do brush your own teeth regularly!). Unbrushed teeth are prone to bacteria buildup, and there could even be parasites hiding in your pet’s mouth.

Lower Bacteria Count, Higher Health Outcomes

We’re told that flossing and brushing our teeth twice a day will reduce the bacteria in our mouths, leading to healthier gums and teeth as well as fresher smelling breath. The same holds true for pets. Veterinarians agree that regularly brushing your pet’s teeth can reduce the overall number of bacteria in their mouths, helping to prevent periodontal disease and bad breath. Also, like with humans, not brushing your pet’s teeth could lead to heart, liver or kidney issues.

You can reduce bacteria by brushing your pet’s teeth at least once a day. Dog and cat toothbrushes as well as toothpaste can be found at your local pet store. Never reach for the human toothpaste when brushing your pet’s teeth. What may be safe for us is harmful to our pets.

Infectious Saliva and Open Wounds

Researchers have found that both humans and dogs have roughly 600 different types of bacteria in their mouths. Cats, on the other hand, have about 200 different types of bacteria in their mouths — and no, that does not mean cats have the cleanest of all mouths. Bacteria are still bacteria.

The types of bacteria in your pet’s mouth are dependent on the animal’s genetics, diet, lifestyle and hygiene habits. It’s important to remember that not all bacteria are bad — some are actually helpful. But too much bacteria, or bacteria that gets where it shouldn’t be, like in the bloodstream through scratches, licks or bites, isn’t good for anyone.

If you have any sort of open wound — a scratch, a small puncture from kitty teeth or anything like it — your first reaction should be to care for the wound before your pet can lick the spot in question. While hugs and kisses from your pet can bring comfort, their saliva can pass along diseases or cause an infection when they lick the punctured skin.

Capnocytophaga canimorsus is a common bacteria found in the mouths of both cats and dogs and serves as a good example of why you should heed this advice. If this bacteria strand is transmitted into an individual’s open wound AND they have a weakened immune system, the injury could become infected leading to sepsis or death if proper medical care is not sought. This is a rare occurrence – especially for people who have healthy immune systems – but nonetheless something to be aware of moving forward.

In the case of pets who live or play outside, you have the added possibility they could transfer parasites they picked up from putting dirt, feces or small animals in their mouth. You don’t want to introduce bacteria or parasites to that wound, so keep it clean and covered.

Just remember: If you have a wound and a pet licks it, immediately clean it out as best as you can — no matter your age or health. Then keep an eye on those wounds for any abnormalities so you can call your doctor and receive the care you might need.

Lastly, we should mention when a pet licks a wound that is already healing, their rough-textured tongue can damage your skin and reopen the sore. Take the right precautions and keep that healing wound away from your pet’s tongue.

Are Pet Kisses Dangerous, Then?

No, not necessarily! This article is not meant to make you nervous if Fido gives you a big kiss across the cheek. However, it does serve as a great reminder to brush your pet’s teeth and have caution in situations where their saliva can enter your bloodstream.

In addition to keeping your pet’s tongue away from open wounds, scientists and veterinarians say you shouldn’t encourage your pet to lick your mouth, nose and eyes. Those three spots on your face could be entry points for pathogens like E. coli into your bloodstream. So, it’s better to play it safe.

RELATED POST: Are Small Dogs More Prone to Dental Disease?

Can My Dog Eat That? CHEESE

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Welcome to “Can My Dog Eat That?,” our series that answers some obvious (and not-so-obvious) questions about what your dog can and can’t safely eat. Read on!

Cheese. Similar to avocado, it’s a snack that is easy to munch without too much guilt, right? After all, cheese is a dairy product and it’s high in calcium and protein! It’s way better than french fries or a candy bar, right? Well, perception isn’t always reality, especially when it comes to snacks that we might share with our dogs. Can dogs eat cheese? Yes, they can. Should they eat a lot of it? For all the reasons that humans might want to check their cheese intake, no.

When it comes to snacks, there are certainly worse things you can feed your dog. Most dogs can, in moderation, eat cheese without any serious repercussions outside of possibly a stinky room a few hours later. Cheese, in general, can be healthy, and dogs seem to love it. It’s a nutrient-rich treat, just like eggs are. The high amounts of calcium are good for strong teeth and bones. Vitamins A, D and B are usually prominent. Like fish, cheese is an excellent source of protein. Where’s the bad, here?

When we say that your dog can eat cheese in moderation, the term “in moderation” does a lot of heavy lifting. Cheese can be great to use as a training tool and it seems custom made for coaxing your pooch into happily scarfing pills. But cheese is almost always high in fat, and too much can cause pancreatitis. Too much for too long can cause obesity and all the issues that come with that.

Lacking Tolerance for Lactose

Dogs are much more frequently lactose intolerant than humans. As dogs age out of puppyhood, they produce less of the enzyme lactase, which helps their puppy systems digest their mother’s milk. Without (or with less of) the enzyme, adult dogs can have a very hard time digesting milk products. This doesn’t mean your dog can’t digest dairy, but it does mean that lactose can stay in their systems long enough to ferment, which can cause gas, cramps and diarrhea. There are varying degrees of lactose intolerance in dogs, and the only way to know for sure how well your dog’s system can handle it is to talk to your veterinarian — although your nose might give you a clue.

Not All Cheese Is Created Equal

To put it simply, there are a lot of cheeses out there, and they aren’t all created the same way. Some are highly processed and filled with sodium. Some are much higher in fat than others, like cheddar, Swiss and goat cheese. Cheddar and American cheese are high in cholesterol. If you want to treat your dog with healthy cheese, stick with mozzarella, ricotta and cottage cheese. There are hundreds of cheeses out there, but these are the more common varieties on both ends of the spectrum.

Of course, you can also find fat-free versions of most popular cheese varieties. Your dog’s mileage may vary!

Oh Cheese, Just Give Them Some, Already!

Yes, with a few considerations, your dog can have the occasional cheesy treat. As with every food or treat not formulated specifically for your dog, make sure to read the label very carefully. If you have any questions, consult your veterinarian.

True: dogs can eat cheese.

RELATED POST: Can My Dog Eat That: A Guide by Taste of the Wild

Behind the Breed: Shiba Inu

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The shiba inu is an ancient Japanese breed that was originally bred to hunt both small and large game, but they have become one of the country’s most popular companion animals. Brought to America from Japan only 60 years ago, shibas are good-natured and compact dogs that are often described as more like a cat than a dog.

Shibas are classified as a “basal” breed, which means they predate modern breeds that originated mostly in the 19th century. In fact, researchers have traced the breed’s origins to 7,000 B.C. Archaeologists have even found remains of shiba-like dogs in ancient sites associated with the Jomon people who lived in the Japanese archipelago from 14,000 B.C.

Before World War II, there were three common types of shiba inu: Minos, Sanins and Shunshus. But the breed almost went extinct due to the war, when many died in bombing raids or from distemper, which became incredibly common in the following years. Now, two types of shibas, the Mino and Sanin, are very rare. All surviving shibas, however, were bred from one of the three distinct bloodlines.

Firewood Dogs

“Shiba” means brushwood, while “inu” means dog, so their name literally translates to “firewood dog,” likely due to the fact that many are the color of fire kindling. Compact and muscular, male shibas measure 14 to 16 inches at the withers, while females measure 13 to 15 inches. Shibas are double coated and the outer coat, which is stiff and straight, covers a very thick and soft undercoat that is prone to shedding. They can come in black and tan, cream, red or red sesame colors and usually have white markings.

Shiba Inus Aren’t for Beginners

Their foxlike features give them a quizzical and approachable look, but they are known for their aloofness — even with their owners! It’s important for owners to set boundaries with shibas as they can have dominant personalities. This is why they are not recommended for first-time dog owners.

Overall, shibas are a healthy breed and will give their experienced owners many years of companionship.

Shiba inu quick facts.

RELATED POST: Behind the Breed: Dachshund

Cat Breeds Made For Winter Weather

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“Winter Wonderland” might be a song humans are humming this January, but not all cats enjoy the dropping temperatures. However, some cat breeds have developed the physical traits to not just survive but even enjoy colder climates. If you live where the winters are harsh (or, let’s be honest, even if you don’t), these might be the cats for you.

Siberian Cat

Siberian cat in the snow.

The title for most cold-resistant feline goes to Siberian cats. While this fluffy feline was officially recognized as a breed in the late 1980s, they were actually introduced in Siberia as early as the 17th century as a way to control the rat population.

Since Siberia is known for some of the coldest temperatures in the world, these cats went on to grow dense heavy coats to survive. Their fur became resistant to moisture and their ears are also well-insulated. This additional fluff has helped them survive temperatures as cold as 5– 14 °F until they could find shelter to hunker down.

When adapting to harsher climates, this breed developed a keen ability to think and plan ahead – making them excellent hunters and survivalists. As a house pet, you’ll notice their high level of intelligence shine through when they play or strategize their next move.

Norwegian Forest Cat

Norwegian forest cat in the snow.

Norwegian forest cats are dense-coated felines with a mysterious origin. Legend has it that this breed was the real-life inspiration for the myth of Norwegian skogkatts — large cats who lived in the mountains and had a magical ability to climb extremely rocky terrain with ease.

Norwegian forest cats are also known for their ability to run down a tree headfirst. How? This breed has sturdier claws than most cats — likely developed to survive that rocky terrain.

A cousin to the Maine coon, the Norwegian forest cat is known for its big body, bushy tail and double-layered coat used to repel moisture. As they’ve adapted to surviving snowy climates in Scandinavia, this breed has also developed tufted ears and toes to serve as natural ear warmers and booties. They’re friendly to children and usually adaptable to other pets, making them perfect family cats.

Maine Coon

Maine coon cat in the snow.

Though they originate on different continents, the Maine coon is often mistaken for the Norwegian forest cat. One way to tell the breeds apart is by looking at their faces. Maine coons have a wedge-shaped head and Norwegian forest cats have a triangle-shaped face. The Maine coon is husky breed developed naturally in the state of Maine where they experience average winter temperatures of 15 to 25 °F.

The exact age and origin story of the Main coon is still a mystery to researchers, but one thing we know for sure is that many members of this breed love spending time outside in the winter.

Maine coons have adapted to colder elements by growing a thick, luscious, semi-water-resistant coat — perfect for repelling snow and staying warm. Another unique feature this large-bodied feline possesses is winter-ready paws. Their large, wide paws act like snowshoes in the winter, preventing them from sinking into the snow as they walk. It’s a great feature to develop in a state that sees an average of 50 to 70 inches of snow along the coast and 60 to 110 inches of the winter precipitation inland.

Maine coons can be great family pets because they’re super friendly and affectionate. And they draw attention due their size: The average male Maine coon weighs more than 15 pounds, while females regularly top 10 pounds. The largest of the breed can approach a whopping 25 pounds!

Turkish Van Cat

Turkish van cat in the snow.

Turkish vans are a large, rugged and rare breed that dates back to ancient times. This active breed originated in the Lake Van area of Turkey. The vast geographical origins have caused the breed to develop a unique ability that lets their coats adapt to a wide range of climates.

When temperatures begin to drop, the Turkish van’s coat becomes longer and thicker, and tufts of hair emerge between their toes. They have a water-resistant, single-layer coat for enduring winter elements or staying dry after going for a swim in warmer months. Yes, we said swim! Another unique characteristic of Turkish vans is their love for water. A Turkish van is a strong, capable swimmer.

If you ever own a Turkish van, you’ll frequently find them in the elevated locations in your dwelling. When adapting to the environment in Europe and Asia, this breed developed strong hind legs and a fondness of jumping and climbing to see their surroundings — likely needed for survival.

Even though these cats have a history of surviving winter weather, it doesn’t mean these bundles of fur should be left out in freezing temperatures for very long. They can stand to be out in colder temperatures compared to most cats, but they do need a warm shelter when temperatures fall below 30 °F. Hardy felines can still suffer from frostbite and hypothermia!

Note: Most cats cannot tolerate anything below 45 °F for too long. Bring your pets inside or provide them with a warm refuge to prevent frostbite on their ears, tails and paws.

RELATED POST: Winter Safety Tips for Pets

Socialize Your Puppy Now for a Friendlier Tomorrow

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Socializing your puppy between 7 and 16 weeks of age can have a lasting impact on their life, although the process never really ends. Acclimating your young puppy to various sights, sounds, smells and people allows them to grow into a relaxed, confident and well-mannered adult dog. It could even save their life one day, as socialized dogs are less likely to use aggression, bite people or flee in moments of fear.

How to Begin Socializing Your Puppy

You can start nearly the moment you bring your pup home, getting them used to new sights and sounds. While supervising your puppy, let them explore their new home. Over the course of a week, gradually introduce them to unusual sounds like the vacuum cleaner, washing machine or dishwasher. Encourage them to walk on different surfaces throughout the house and yard to feel a variety of textures on their paws. And provide them with their own safe space to retreat when they need to take a break from investigating.

Seven days after your puppy has received their first round of vaccines, you can begin venturing out to places that have a low risk of infectious disease (i.e. not the dog park). This waiting period helps decrease the risk of picking up contagious diseases when greeting other dogs and humans.

Venturing Farther Away

During your puppy’s first neighborhood adventure, let them set the pace. But you need to set the mood: positive, easygoing and upbeat. They may pause to sniff a fire hydrant. They may play in a puddle of water. And they may get excited to say hello to a neighbor they have not met yet. Just roll with it! If your puppy gets scared of anything along the way, treat their fears with care. Don’t push them to interact with someone or something.

Instead, revisit the area later and bend down to your puppy’s level. Calmly talk to them while close to the object or person in question. Show them you’re not being harmed and there’s nothing to fear. Once they’ve overcome that bout of nervousness, reward your puppy with a treat and praise.

Check out our blog, “How to Train Your Puppy to Walk on a Leash” for more info about getting ready to stroll around the neighborhood.

After a few neighborhood adventures, it’s time add a few more tools to your socialization toolbox. There’s so much more to be done during this pivotal time frame!

Interacting with Other Dogs

Start small by scheduling a 30-minute playdate with a friend who has a puppy or well-behaved adult canine that is also current on their vaccinations. Pick a neutral, quieter location like someone’s house or backyard in an effort to not overstimulate your puppy. Let the doggos lead the pace of interacting with one another but make note that pet parents are not off duty. Keep your eyes on your puppy as they’re navigating this new situation and step in if your pup gets overwhelmed.

Ideally, throughout the playdate you’ll see the dogs wagging their tails, acting playful, chasing each other and wrestling.

Work up to a small group of puppy friends, exposing them to a variety of sizes and breeds along the way.

Next, consider enrolling your pooch in puppy classes or scheduling a few doggy daycare stays. Both provide your puppy an outlet to mingle, play and get used to being around a larger vaccinated group of furry faces.

Traveling to New Locations

Check to see if any places around town or a short distance away allow dogs.

In the beginning, limit travel to a 20-minute radius to help your puppy get used to car rides. Think about all the sights, smells and textures your pupper could encounter walking along an uncrowded hiking trail. Let them take it all in and use positive reinforcement when they behave in public.

As your puppy becomes more comfortable traveling to new places, seek out additional experiences for Fido. Examples could include:

  • Building a snowman with friends at a local park.
  • Visiting a botanical garden and seeing all the colorful flowers in the springtime.
  • Picking up a to-go coffee and pup cup at a noisy pet-friendly coffee shop.

Meeting All the Hoomans

Introduce Fido to family, friends and community members of all ages, genders and backgrounds. Set a goal of having your puppy meet a minimum of 100 different people before they turn 12 weeks old.

That might sound like a lofty amount, but each outing adds up quickly. Think about all the individuals you’ll encounter when you walk past a local elementary as classes get out, eat out on the patio of a restaurant, or invite your best friend and their kiddo to the dog park.

Encourage everyone to let your puppy make the first move when saying hello. Don’t be afraid of letting others know your puppy is working on their people skills. Ask the new person to hold out their hand, say hi and be patient. Over time, your puppy will likely warm up to them — and if they don’t, that’s fine. Your puppy may be all peopled out at that point. Try again tomorrow. With patience and repetition, your puppy will get the hang of peopling.

Whew! You’ve made it to week 16 with lots of adorable puppy stories to share. Now, as you take your bundle of fur to new places during week 17, 18, 19, etc., your future self and future Fido will say, “Socialization was 110% worth it!” Trust us. A relaxed, calm and well-behaved doggo is developing throughout the process.

RELATED POST: Ease the Stress on Puppies During the Adoption Process

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Can My Dog Eat That? Snow

Can my dog eat snow? Yes!

Welcome to Can My Dog Eat That?,” our series that answers some obvious (and not-so-obvious) questions about what your dog can and can’t safely eat. Read on!

It’s a romantic notion to head out into a winter wonderland and catch snowflakes on your tongue, isn’t it? Most people have probably done it at least once or twice in their lives. Dogs, too, seem to enjoy snow on their tongues. The difference is that while people rarely chow down on snow, some dogs…do.

So, can eating snow hurt your dog?

No. Not in small amounts, anyway. Snow is just frozen water; for dogs it’s like a cool treat. A slushy, if you will. However, eating too much snow does contain dangers, although they don’t necessarily come from the snow itself.

S’no Business Like Moderation

Dogs explore the world with their nose and mouths, so it’s only natural for them to test that frozen fluffy fun on their tongues, especially during the first snowfall of the season. Tasting is A-OK, especially if it’s a fresh new layer. The issues arise if your dog is one of those who plows through mouthfuls of the stuff. The deeper you go, the more chances that there’s something nefarious in the snow. Rocks, sticks, leaves or other ground debris can make their way into the lower layers, and you obviously don’t want your dog eating rocks and sticks.

Colored Snow? A No-No-No!

We’ve all heard jokes about yellow snow, but many dogs will make a beeline right for it. Yellow snow is a smelly signifier that friends (or enemies!) have been hanging around, so it’s necessary to investigate. Light investigation with noses or tongues is pretty harmless, but you don’t want your dog eating big mouthfuls of yellow. You’re not sure who it came from, after all.

However, yellow isn’t the worst color in snow that your dog can ingest. Brown, black, pink, blue or pretty much any other color in snow is probably bad news. If the snow in question is covering pavement, there’s a good chance that cars have been there, and cars can leak all sorts of bad (yet colorful) liquids. Motor oil, wiper fluid and especially engine coolant can be deadly in even small amounts. Engine coolant (antifeeeze) can be deadly in tiny doses, so be extremely wary of green, blue or orange spots of snow.

Salt used for de-icing walkways is often tinted blue but might not have any coloration at all. If mixed with the snow your dog is eating, it can cause indigestion in small amounts or be deadly in bulk.

Brown, grey or black spots in snow might be dirt picked up from the ground, but it’s never a good idea for dirt and gravel to make its way into your pondering pup’s belly.

Low Body Temps

If your dog insists on eating large amounts of snow, their body temperature can drop to dangerously low levels, causing heart irregularities or even death. This would take a LOT of snow, but it’s definitely a concern.

However, if your dog is eating that much snow or regularly eating a lot of snow, it could be a sign of something more serious, like kidney failure or Cushing’s disease, an abnormality of the adrenal gland. If you think that your dog is regularly eating too much snow, contact your veterinarian.

Snow’s No Problem…Until It Is

In short, a little bit of fresh snow won’t hurt your dog. But eating too much, digging to deep or eating colored snow can be cause for concern. If you suspect that your dog has ingested something they shouldn’t have, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately, or consult your veterinarian.

An interior graphic with text that reads ‘Can my dog eat snow? Yes! (in small amounts)’.

RELATED POST: Can My Dog Eat That: A Guide by Taste of the Wild

Behind the Breed: Cocker Spaniel

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Though they originated in England, cocker spaniels may have been counted among the first guests at the American Thanksgiving table. Records and ships’ manifests indicate that there were two dogs aboard the Mayflower when it landed in New England in 1620 — a mastiff and a cocker spaniel. Now, cocker spaniels are counted among the most beloved, merry and frolicsome of all breeds.

Originally bred to hunt, the breed gets its name from the term “cocker,” referring to their use in flushing out Eurasian woodcock, a type of wading bird. These “gun dogs” are bred to use their keen sense of smell to stay low to the ground and flush out birds for hunters. Not ones to rest on their laurels, these well-rounded sporting dogs then use their sharp eyes to locate the downed birds, and then they retrieve the fowl.

An American Original

Refinements to the English version of cocker spaniels led to the more Americanized breed, which was officially recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1878. Purposefully bred smaller in the States because American woodcocks are also smaller, the breed’s appearance changed slightly as American breeders preferred a more stylized look. American cockers are smaller with shorter backs, have a more domed head and shorter muzzle, and are generally shorter. American cockers are between 14.5 and 15.5 inches at the withers for males (a little shorter for females) and their typical weight is between 20 and 24 pounds. American cockers are broken into categories for judging in the sporting group based on their coats: black, black with tan points, parti-color, and ASCOB (any solid color other than black).

Grooming is Key

They require a bit of dedicated grooming to keep their coats long and luxurious. Ear issues can arise if you don’t keep their ear canals clean, and keeping them groomed is important in warding off any skin problems.

Easy to train, cocker spaniels are rock stars in a whole host of companion events including agility, rally/obedience and nose work, and their personalities help them excel as therapy dogs. They are considered loving, affectionate and great additions to the family.

To learn more about similar spaniel dogs, like the Boykin spaniel or the Cavalier King Charles spaniel, explore our other articles!

An interior graphic listing five quick facts about cocker spaniels.

RELATED POST: Behind the Breed: Dachshund

How to Keep Your Dog Safe and Calm on Christmas Eve

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Christmas Eve is the happiest day of the year for many people. For dogs, it can be quite upsetting! Weird footsteps on the roof. Strange horned animals flying around. Treats left out that they’re not allowed to have. The horror!

How do you keep your dog calm and safe when stranger danger, upset tummies and other mistletoe mysteries are very real possibilities this night? To keep everyone in the house jolly and ho-ho-healthy, read on!

Santa Paws Eats Cookies

You’ve got the plate of sugar cookies all perfectly laid out for Santa’s arrival. A cup of milk is even sitting next to your famous Christmas cookie plate. After you’ve drifted off to sleep, your furry friend sneaks over to the plate with eyes all aglow. It’s snack time for Santa Paws!

While the ingredients for sugar cookies may not be toxic to Fido, these delectables can cause them an upset stomach, vomiting, diarrhea and gas. No one wants to be under the weather for the big morning, so save your pup from themselves.

Before heading off to bed for visions of sugar plums, set out a decoy plate of dog cookies and place Santa Claus’s treats out of Fido’s reach. Most pet stores carry dog biscuits and cookies perfect for curbing your furry friend’s craving. You could even try a treat from your dog advent calendar!

Reindeer Takeover

Your dog looks out the window to see some funny looking dogs have invaded the front lawn this Christmas season. They’re not moving. They’ve not made a sound. They must be in stealth mode, Fido ponders. Your dog begins to alert the whole house and attempts to warn the whole neighborhood as their bark gets louder and louder. If their barks could translate into English, it’d probably resemble something like, “Must save the family from a North Pole invasion!”

You know the funny-looking dogs are actually plastic reindeer you bought on sale three Christmases ago, but your dog is oblivious to this fact. It gives you a good chuckle at first, but after a few minutes you really want to let Fido know all is well.

Let’s hit the rewind button and go back to before you put up the life-sized decorations. First, we recommend getting a dog pheromone diffuser for the house. These diffusers release dog-appeasing pheromones to help calm Fido in their time of distress.

Second, we recommend using positive reinforcement to help your dog get closer to the reindeer so they can see the decorations are not really plotting a takeover. Give your dog a treat anytime they approach the reindeer and praise them for their bravery. This can help show Fido they have nothing to be afraid of.

If you notice these methods do not work, that’s okay. Some dogs just have a very strong fear of certain objects. Close the curtains so your dog can’t see the reindeer, and enjoy the yard decorations by yourself from the front porch.

Stranger Danger

Your dog is rustled from their sleep as they hear something stirring in the house. Fido isn’t sure if it’s an intruder or a friendly face ready to provide pats. As they round the corner, they see an unfamiliar person in a red suit reaching into a very large bag! It’s not registering that this is Santa Claus from the Christmas stories you all read earlier that evening. Fido opens his mouth to bark, “Stranger danger!” before leaping through the air to attack and save their family.

This may sound like a funny scene from a movie, but as you or a loved one is icing their bum in a Santa Claus suit, you begin to wonder what you could have done to help your dog realize that “Santa” is no threat.

Let’s back up the calendar. Calm your dog’s nerves by introducing them to the suit a few days prior. Let them sniff everything, then try the suit on in front of them so they can see the transformation from owner to Santa. Be sure to talk to them throughout the process so they can hear your voice and associate it with jolly Saint Nick standing in front of them. Give them a treat and positive reinforcement before removing the costume. Repeat these steps one or two more times before Christmas Eve to help prevent an unwanted Santa attack on the night itself.

WHEW! The holidays are taxing for everyone. You deserve a nap and a comforting cup of ’nog after the holiday festivities are complete because you’ve followed these tips and helped Fido thwart a reindeer takeover. Their tummy is at ease having eaten Christmas cookies made for dogs. And last but not least, Santa and your doggo are now best friends. All in a holiday’s work.

RELATED POST: Stop Unwanted Barking Before the Holidays

What to Do if Your Puppy Eats More Than Food

Taste of the Wild

“What do you have in your mouth??!?”

It’s a question every puppy owner asks. Sometimes, very often.

Chewing is a natural instinct for a growing puppy. But puppies need to be taught what’s okay to chew and what’s not. They’re still learning how to navigate life, after all. Pet owners have seen anything from sticks to couch cushion pieces wedged between those chompers.

We recommend diverting their attention away from potentially hazardous items with the help of chew toys or the use of pet gates to keep the chewers confined to safe locations when they cannot be constantly supervised.

However, while we can recommend these tactics to divert a crisis, it’s also extremely realistic to expect accidents to happen. Puppies can be quick on their toe beans and chewing on an item one moment can turn into accidentally swallowing it the next. Puppy owners need to be prepared to act fast in these instances.

Hazardous Items Puppies Commonly Eat

Puppies eat items they shouldn’t out of boredom, hunger, scavenging instincts, underlying health conditions or because they’re teething. Watch out for these household items puppies commonly try to chew, rip up and/or swallow.

An interior graphic detailing common items that puppies like to chew.

Call Your Local Veterinarian ASAP

If you see your puppy eat something they shouldn’t, your first step is to call your local veterinarian’s office or the nearest emergency animal clinic. Let them know what your pup ate and how much they consumed.

The doctor will be able to tell you if the object is small enough to pass (which happens within a matter of days), if there are any toxicity concerns, or if it’s best to come in for an exam.

Veterinarians may induce vomiting, utilize endoscopy, or perform surgery to safely retrieve the object before serious issues set in. They can also look for tears in the mouth, esophagus or stomach if the item in question has sharp edges, like sticks, rocks or pencils.

Note: Do not try to take matters into your own hands and make your dog throw up without talking to your vet first. It is best to have professional supervision in case anything goes awry.

What if I Only Suspect Something Was Ingested

Little Fido has just finished up playing outside and is ready for a rest on the living room floor. Over the next hour or so, your pupper seems to be a little off. You didn’t see them ingest anything they shouldn’t, but now you begin to question if they got into something.

What signs should you look for to know if they ate a hazardous item without your knowledge?

  • Vomiting or dry heaving
  • Not eating
  • Lethargic
  • Stretching a lot like they’re trying to relieve pressure built up in their stomach
  • Grunting or moaning like they’re in pain

Call your veterinarian to discuss your situation as soon as you notice these symptoms. It’s better to go in for a visit and an X-ray to know what you’re dealing with — especially if you start to suspect they may have ingested something without you knowing.

My Puppy Repeatedly Eats Non-Food Items

If your puppy goes from chewing on items to repeatedly eating non-food items, they may have a medical issue called pica. The need to constantly eat non-food items can indicate nutritional deficiencies or behavioral issues such as anxiety or a compulsive disorder.

Your veterinarian can work with you and your puppy to find the root of the issue and ways to manage it. These management techniques can be as simple as proper anxiety treatments or adding in more exercise opportunities throughout the week. Your veterinarian will know best.

We hope your furry companion does not need to have an item removed from his or her stomach, but in the event they do, you’ll now properly be prepared to act fast. Keep your veterinarian’s phone number in an easily accessible location not only for you, but for any puppy sitters to have on hand as well.

RELATED POST: Common Household Items That Are Pet Poisons

A new puppy text graphic showing a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.