Deciphering Dog Body Language

A black and brown dog standing in the grass arching its back with its tail in the air.

Your dog may not be able to tell you whether they’re feeling sad or happy or scared, but looking at how your dog’s ears are positioned, how they’re holding their tail and other body language cues can help you decode how they’re feeling. Body language is one of the ways that dogs communicate with each other, and we can use those visual clues, too — just like how we can use hand signals as commands. Let’s go over some of the canine body language cues and what they mean.

Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language

When you start to learn how to read dog body language, it’s important to look at the whole picture. While dog ears and tails on their own can give some clues about how dogs are feeling, the dog’s communication cues need to be read in context. For example, when dogs’ ears are upright, that could mean they are feeling playful, but it can also be an early sign of aggression. Looking at the rest of their body language and the situation will help determine which one it is.

In this article, we’ll go over dog ear position meanings, tail tales and general body positions to help you understand how your dog is feeling. Remember that every dog is different — these are generalizations. You know your dog way better than anyone else, so you will be the best person to interpret how they’re feeling.

Happy or Excited Dogs

A happy dog will typically have a slightly raised and big, wide wagging tail. They’ll have relaxed ears that will be in their natural position — for some dogs this will be pointed ears and for others it will be floppy ears. If your dog’s excited, their tail may be slightly raised and have a fast wag. A dog that’s ready for play will have high and perky ears with relaxed body language. You may notice that the tail of a playful dog will be wagging mostly to the right. Their eyes will be big and wide and their mouth will be open but not baring teeth (you might say they were smiling).

Nervous or Anxious Dogs

A nervous dog will have their tail hanging down and doing relaxed little wags. If they’re anxious, you may notice the tail is mostly wagging to the left. They may have their ears back and possibly flattened against their head. Their pupils may be dilated and they might be giving you “whale eye.” We’ll describe whale eyes a little later.

Curious or Alert Dogs

A curious dog may have a loose tail that is straight out (horizontal). If curiosity has moved on to alert, their tail may go straight up (vertical). Their ears will be upright, perky and facing forward. They may even move their ears like a radar to fine-tune where the curious sound is coming from. They’ll have an open mouth but not show teeth and may be looking intently but not at anything in particular — they’re busy listening to whatever they’re curious about or alert to.

Fearful or Scared Dogs

A fearful dog will typically crouch near the ground and have their tail still and tucked between their legs. Alternatively, they may display submissive behaviors such as rolling onto their back and exposing their belly. Fearful dogs will often yawn and repeatedly lick their lips. They may pant and have dilated pupils.

Aggressive or Defensive Dogs

Dogs who are showing aggressive behaviors will usually stand tall at full height, possibly leaning forward and holding their tail straight up. Their tail may be arched over their back and doing quick wags. They may raise their hackles — their hair bristles down their spine. The whites of their eyes may be more obvious, they may bare their teeth, growl, or snarl and snap at the air. Aggressive dogs pull their ears down and have them pinned flat against their head.

It’s important to note that any dog, even the most mild-mannered dog, will bite if they’re pushed to the edge. Dog bites can occur in many different scenarios — not just when the dog is showing aggressive body language. They can also bite if they’re fearful, feel threatened, are startled, are in pain or if their space is invaded, especially when eating. That’s why it’s recommended to never leave young children alone with a dog.

Dog Behavior 101

Here are some frequently asked questions related to dog body language and behavior. If you have other questions about your dog’s behavior and what it means, ask your veterinarian or a certified dog trainer. They can help you identify whether it’s a normal behavior or something to be concerned about.

What Is “Dog Whale Eye?”

Whale eye or “half-moon eye” is usually seen in dogs who are feeling stressed or anxious. The dog will turn their head away but keep looking at whomever or whatever is causing the stress or perceived threat. This makes the white of their eyes appear as a half-moon shape. You may also notice other signs of anxiety and stress like their tail between their legs and their ears flat against their head.

Why Do Dogs Sit Facing Away from You?

This position is usually a sign of trust. They feel comfortable enough with you to not have to keep a watchful eye on you. If your dog backs into you when greeting you, that’s also a friendly, submissive sign (i.e., they probably want you to sniff their nether regions). Or maybe you just give really good back scratches when they sit like this?

Can Your Dog’s Ears and Tail Really Tell You How They’re Feeling?

Yes, the position of your dog’s ears and tail can give you an indication of how they’re feeling. As we mentioned, you should use situational context along with ear and tail positions and body posture to understand how your dog is feeling. And remember you are the best person to know how your dog is feeling.

A List of Dog Commands and Hand Signals for Beginners

A dog standing next to its owner in a field while the owner uses a hand signal to command the dog to stay.

When you’re choosing how to train your dog, there are many things to consider (including their food), but most importantly may be which training method to use. Another decision to make is whether to teach your dog training hand signals. Dogs use body language to communicate with other dogs, so it makes sense that they can also use body language to communicate with us. It’s why most dogs respond well to hand signal training.

Why Should You Teach Your Dog Hand Signals?

There are many situations where a hand signal can come in handy. If you’re in a noisy environment where your dog can’t easily hear you (e.g., at the dog park with what seems like every dog in town), a hand signal allows your dog to see what you’re asking them to do. That way you’re not shouting or running after them until they hear you. Dog training hand signals are also useful for competing in dog sports like agility where your dog needs to pay attention to you in a very distracting environment where verbal communication is difficult.

Many dogs develop hearing loss as they age. By teaching them visual signals when they’re younger, you will still be able to communicate with them if they do become hard of hearing or deaf in their senior years. If your dog was born deaf or becomes deaf, they can learn to obey commands that are given by hand signals. The hardest part of training deaf dogs is getting their attention. Some of the methods we list in our article about caring for a deaf dog include broadly waving, stomping your foot or gently touching them in the same spot each time.

Can I Teach My Dog Hand Signals If They Know Verbal Cues?

Yes, if you have trained your dog to respond to verbal commands, you can still use hand signals for dog training. The first step is getting their attention — we have more on how to do that below. Once they’re looking at you, show them the hand signal, say the verbal command and, of course, give them lots of praise when they complete the task. Eventually you should be able to drop the verbal command and just show your dog the hand signal.

How to Teach Hand Commands for Dogs

Obviously knowing hand signals is pointless if your dog doesn’t look at you. So that’s the first task you need to teach your dog — “look at me.” To do this, get their attention by calling their name or stomping or broadly waving at them if they’re deaf. When they look at you, say “look” or another cue, and immediately reward them with treats, a toy or another reward (skip the verbal cue if they’re deaf). Keep repeating this and eliminate the reward when they’re looking at you consistently. The goal is that eventually your dog will regularly look at you to “check in” and, once trained with hand signals, will see if you’re using visual cues.

Praise is an important part of verbal cue training and it’s critical for hand signal training, too. It’s important to have a command that tells your dog that they have completed the command or desired behavior correctly, particularly if they are deaf or hearing impaired and they can’t hear you say “Good job.” This hand signal could be as simple as a thumbs up (closed fist with your thumb pointing upward).

If your puppy or dog is just beginning the training process and doesn’t know voice commands yet, lure-and-reward training can be useful to teach hand signals. This is where you use a lure (e.g., a treat or favorite toy) to help your dog learn what you’re asking them to do. For example, holding a treat in the palm of your hand and passing your hand over your dog’s nose toward the back of their head can encourage them to “sit.”

Just like any other training session, teaching hand signals should be done in a quiet area where your dog won’t be distracted. You should also keep your dog’s training sessions short so that your dog’s attention doesn’t wander.

Which Dog Training Hand Signals Should You Use?

You can use almost any hand signal for dog training, as long as you are consistent with the hand signals you use, they are easy to understand and your dog can see the signals at a distance. There aren’t really any standard dog training hand signals. Just make sure that whichever signals you choose, everyone in your household is using the same hand signal for each command and you stick with it. Don’t change the hand signal once you’ve started the training process.

Basic Hand Signals for Dogs to Learn

Below are seven basic commands that your dog should know, whether that’s verbal commands, hand signals or both. We have suggested some dog hand signals, but you can also use your own.

1. Sit

Hold your arm straight out. When you’re starting to teach “sit,” your hand will go above and over your dog’s nose, encouraging them to sit.

2. Come

Hold your arm straight out then bring it to your opposite shoulder. You could also use both arms and bring them to your chest.

3. Stay

Hold your arm out with your hand up like you’re telling someone to stop. Hold your arm at an angle to the ground so it’s directed toward your dog’s head.

4. Heel

Tap your leg on the side you want them to heel on.

5. Drop or Leave It

Make a fist with your hand and hold it toward the ground. You could also open your hand.

6. Down

Hold your arm out straight and move your arm to the floor. You could also point to the floor with your index finger while you’re moving your arm down.

7. Good Job

Make a fist with your thumb pointing upward (like you’re giving someone a thumb’s up).

Any type of dog training takes patience, practice and praise, but the end result is well worth it. You can even use hand signals to teach your dog fun tricks! Try teaching your dog to spin by moving your hand in a circular motion. Ask your dog to do this at a party without uttering a word, and your guests are sure to be impressed!

Puppy Training 101: How to Stop a Puppy from Biting

Puppy Nipping Kitten on Nose Graphic

Your puppy is all snuggles, at least until they’re not. Why do the cuddles from young pups so often lead to bites and nips on your fingers, hands or other body parts? If you’re worried your new puppy is biting you out of aggression, fret not. Your pup is probably not biting or nipping to be mean or malicious. In fact, puppy bites are typically a sign that they’re going through a developmental phase. Rarely is biting and nibbling a display of aggression.

Why Does My Dog Nibble On Me?

Puppies are naturally wired to attack moving objects — they’re predators, after all. Therefore, one of the primary reasons for puppy biting is because they’re wanting to release playful energy. Other reasons include teething, saying, “No!” to something or adjusting to the new world around them.

When young puppies are in groups, you’ll commonly see them wrestling, growling and biting as part of their normal playful behavior. If you’re a single-pet household, you may notice your puppy turn to you as their playmate. Puppy bite inhibition stops them from hurting their playmates most of the time. But when the play biting gets too rough for the other puppies, their playmates will let out a yelp or distance themselves from the offender. This social cue is sometimes missed when a puppy is playing with their human.

When Do Puppies Stop Chewing?

Chewing is a common sign of teething in puppies, along with drooling, red or swollen gums, missing teeth and a loss of appetite. The height of teething time is around 3 to 4 months of age when deciduous teeth start falling out and permanent teeth replace them. Chewing due to teething should stop by the time their permanent teeth come in around 6 to 7 months of age.

If your puppy is teething, it’s a good idea to offer puppy-safe chew toys and treats, to help distract them from chewing on inappropriate or dangerous objects (e.g., your shoes, furniture, electrical cords). You should supervise your puppy while they’re chewing on toys, and check the toys regularly for damage.

When Do Puppies Lose Their Baby Teeth?

Puppies have 28 deciduous teeth, and adult dogs have 42 permanent teeth. Puppies typically have their full set of permanent teeth by 6 or 7 months of age. The incisors come in first at around 3 to 5 months, then the canines at 5 to 6 months and then the premolars and molars between 4 and 7 months.

How to Stop Puppy Bites

One way to stop puppy biting is to redirect their attention to a toy and reward their good behavior with treats, praise or other types of positive reinforcement. You can also walk away and ignore them for 30 to 60 seconds after your puppy grabs you to send a message that they are getting too rowdy.

If your puppy is really wound up, put them in a safe space to calm down. Place them in a playpen or a designated space in the house or yard for 5 to 10 minutes. After they’ve calmed down, greet them with love and affection to reinforce good behavior and to not confuse them after they’re being good.

Avoid physical punishment for your puppy’s behavior ­— e.g., muzzling your pup, holding their mouth shut or pinning them on their backs. Physical punishment can lead to fear and aggression, neither of which you want for your puppy.

Dog owners should also avoid rough play such as wrestling or roughhousing, because it encourages biting behavior. While playing with your pup, keep this in mind to avoid teaching them bad habits.

Help! My Puppy Won’t Stop Biting Me — I’ve Tried Everything!

Most puppies bite; but consider visiting with your veterinarian for advice if your pup:

  • Shows signs of aggression
  • Consistently breaks your skin when they bite
  • Exhibits signs that they’re in pain
  • Stiffens up and stares at you before biting
  • Gets aggressive around new people (in a non-playful manner)

Your vet can help determine if the biting is an underlying health issue or a behavioral challenge.

When Do Puppies Stop Biting?

Puppies explore and learn new things each day, especially during their developmental phase. Stay consistent with your training, try puppy classes or socialization classes and always reinforce good behavior. Puppies typically phase out of the biting stage between eight and ten months of age.

Note that just by researching how to stop puppy biting, you’ve already shown you have what it takes to be a great pet parent.

A new puppy text graphic showing a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

Translating Your Dog’s Tail

Taste of the Wild

Did you know that a dog’s tail wagging to the right means something different from wagging to the left? While you can’t speak “dog,” you can use their body language to get an insight into what a dog is feeling, and to know whether you should approach or give them some space. A tail is a really useful communication device for dogs, and you can learn what your dog is trying to tell you by their tail position.

Keep in mind, though, that every dog is different, and these are general descriptions of what each tail position means. Your dog may have a different meaning for their tail tales.

An interior graphic depicting nine different tail positions and what they may indicate about a dog's mood.

Dogs use many forms of body language to communicate with us and other animals, not just their tails. Their eyes, face and ears can express different feelings, and so can their body position and even their hair. So it’s worth paying attention to your dog’s body language — you might just see what they’re trying to tell you.

RELATED POST: When the Wagger Doesn’t Work: Tail Injuries in Dogs

Stop Unwanted Barking Before the Holidays

Taste of the Wild

Sometimes, we like it when our dogs bark. It lets potential intruders know there’s a canine guarding the house. It alerts us to someone at the door. Or it tells us our dogs are ready to come in from outside.

But some dogs can go overboard on barking, keeping a constant high-pitched commentary going on about everything outside or inside the house. Your neighbors might not appreciate it, and there may be city ordinances against a barking dog.

If you’re worried your dog may be more vocal, especially during the holidays, here are some things you can do to curb the behavior, in addition to teaching them basic obedience training commands.

Why your dog barks

Knowing what sparks your dog’s impulse to yap can go a long way to helping resolve the issue. Try to notice if there’s a time or location that inspires the barking. Are there certain people, animals, sounds or objects that seem to rile up your dog?

Territorial barkers take their job as guard dogs seriously. They’ll often perch at your front window and bark at every person, dog or squirrel that comes within eyesight.

Others are social barkers. Their ears perk up at the sound of another dog barking in the neighborhood, and they join in the chorus.

Many dogs bark because they’re bored or they’re seeking attention from you, another person, or a dog. Of course, any response from you, even to holler “stop barking,” gives them what they want: your attention. So the barking is likely to continue.

Dogs who create a ruckus when left at home alone may have underlying separation anxiety. These dogs are often truly distressed and may require the help of your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist to treat the underlying problem before the barking can be addressed.

The same goes for dogs who bark out of fear or anxiety. They may bark because they can’t escape from the person or thing that’s triggering them to be upset, whether it’s a stranger, another dog, or a vacuum cleaner. This kind of bark may be a warning to back off before the dog becomes aggressive. In this case, professional help may be necessary.

What you shouldn’t do

Don’t punish or yell at your dog for barking. Punishment may add to the dog’s fear and make barking worse. If your dog is seeking attention, any attention you provide — even negative — rewards the behavior and encourages it to continue.

Don’t be inconsistent. Don’t reward your dog for barking at some things, like people who come to the door, but not other things, like squirrels.

Don’t use shock collars. Some dogs will temporarily stop barking with shock collars and citronella collars, which emit a citrous scent with barking — but they eventually figure out a way around them. Positive reinforcement of quiet behavior is always better.

Don’t get your dog excited about arrivals at your door. Saying “who’s here” in an excited tone may motivate aroused barking when you really want your dog to stay calm.

Don’t leave a muzzle on your dog. Immobilizing your dog’s jaw for any amount of time can impair drinking and proper breathing and will most likely increase your pet’s anxiety.

What you should do

Start by working with your veterinarian or certified trainer to determine what is causing your dog to bark. Pinpointing the cause will help determine the most effective behavior modification techniques to help your dog.

Avoid barking triggers. If your dog barks at everything outside the window, apply a window film or close the curtains. For pups who are overexcited on walks, go for a stroll during low-traffic times when you’re less likely to run into others.

Distract your dog from surroundings. For dogs who bark when on leash, reward them for walking by your side and looking in your eyes for guidance. When a dog nears, train your dog to sit and touch its nose to your hand. With positive reinforcement such as treats, you can make yourself more interesting than the dogs that walk by.

Teach the “quiet” command. Start by asking your dog to speak. Then, say “quiet” and give your dog a reward for not barking. Gradually lengthen the amount of time your dog needs to stay quiet until they receive the reward.

Increase the exercise. If your dog is barking out of sheer boredom, make a commitment to a long walk each day. A tired dog is often a quiet dog.

Teach your dog an alternative behavior. Dogs that bark when the doorbell rings can be trained to go to their mat and be quiet. You will need to start this training weeks before the holidays to give your dog time to master the behavior. Also, instruct visitors to make their entry low-key and to ignore the dog until they’re quiet.

Replace fear with good things. If your dog is afraid of strangers who come to the door, distract your pooch with treats and keep doing so until they are relaxed when the stranger is in the house.

Don’t leave your dog in the yard alone. Supervise your dog while they’re in the yard, or better yet, keep them occupied with games of fetch or playing with toys.

If you run into any roadblocks, consult your veterinarian or certified trainer. With a little effort, you’ll never even know that Santa came down the chimney until Christmas morning!

Should I Get a Second Dog?

Two dogs sniffing each other at a park.

Do you ever worry that your dog might be lonely for some canine companionship? Maybe you can’t spend as much time at home as you did before. Or perhaps you’ve recently lost an older dog. But how do you know if your first dog would really love or really hate a second dog in the house?

Does My Dog Need a Friend?

First, dogs are social animals, so most dogs like the company of others. But finding the right match for your dog is a little like setting up a friend on a blind date. For some dogs, it’s love at first sight, others take a while to click, and some dogs will always just feel “meh” about other dogs. There’s no guarantee that two dogs will be best friends. If you’re looking to add multiple dogs to your family, here are some considerations to help you make the right choice.

Evaluate Your Current Dog

What’s your first dog’s temperament like? Do they play well with other dogs, or do they tend to be either submissive or aggressive in social situations? Do they have food aggression? An aggressive dog may not take well to sharing its space, food, toys or humans with another family member and may prefer to be alone. Likewise, a dog that was submissive to your previous pet may come out of their shell when allowed to be the only dog in the home.

Does your current dog have any medical or behavioral issues? You might think a second dog would be the answer for a dog with separation anxiety, but this isn’t always the case. And if your first dog is a digger or barker, consider getting those problems under control so they don’t teach your second dog the same behaviors.

“What I Wish I Knew Before Getting a Second Dog”

While it might help to take your dog to a shelter to meet other dogs, this can be a stressful and unfamiliar environment. Even if the dogs appear to interact nicely there, that doesn’t mean the same will be true when you get home. It’s better to work at finding a second dog that’s a good match for your first dog and make introductions later.

Some breeds, such as golden retrievers and labradors, tend to be more dog-friendly than other breeds and may blend in with other family members more easily.

When it comes to activity levels, opposites don’t always attract. If your current dog is a bulldog that prefers couch surfing, introducing a high-energy border collie as your second dog may not be the best companion dog for them. Although there can be dog-to-dog variations, selecting a second dog who’s the same breed as your first dog may help ensure similar energy levels — if not immediately in the case of an adult dog and a puppy, then eventually.

Also consider your current dog’s age. Don’t assume a new pup will revitalize an older dog. It could happen if your gray-muzzled old dog is in good health, but if they suffer from arthritis or other medical problems, adding a rambunctious new puppy may be frustrating for older dogs.

The sex of the new dog also matters. Fights are more likely to break out between two female dogs. It’s better to have two of the opposite sex (neutered and spayed, of course) or two neutered male dogs.

Current Dog Meet New Dog

Before any doggy introductions, make sure to take the second dog to your veterinarian for a thorough physical exam. Your vet will make sure the new dog is fully vaccinated and free of diseases and parasites.

Introductions are best done in a neutral space, such as in a public park. With the two dogs on leashes, allow them to sniff and explore each other. Praise them for calm interactions and provide treats. Watch their body language and intervene if there’s any sign of aggression. If possible, take them on a walk together, liberally doling out praise and goodies.

Before you bring the second dog home, make sure that each dog has its own bed as well as water and food bowls. Remove any toys, especially your current dog’s favorites, so there won’t be any competition for resources. Allow your current dog to enter the house first. You may want to leave the leashes on them initially or put the second dog in a crate so the current dog can feel free to sniff and become more familiar.

How to Introduce Dogs to Each Other

All interactions between the two dogs should be supervised. If you need to leave the house, put them in separate rooms or crates to make sure nothing happens while you’re gone.

Start by always giving the first dog their food or treats first. You may need to feed them in separate rooms initially. Once mealtime is over, remove any remaining kibble to eliminate food rivalry. Eventually, the two dogs will work out a hierarchy of their own. If your dogs still have trouble getting along, consult a trainer or veterinary behaviorist.

Is it Better to Have Two Dogs?

We’ve talked a lot about getting a second dog and what that means from the dogs’ point of view but there are few things to consider for you, too. Do you have the resources for double the food, double the vet bills and double the care? Are you ready for the extra responsibilities of owning a second pet? There are certainly a lot of shelter dogs who need a good home and can provide wellness benefits for their pet parents. Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide whether you feel comfortable with bringing home a new dog and how you think your current dog will react to a new pet in the home.

Can Nutrition Influence Your Dog’s Behavior?

A brown dog lying on the floor licking its lips over a bowl of food.

If, as they say, “you are what you eat,” dietary ingredients could impact a dog’s health. Since our health affects how we feel, it seems logical that it could also affect how we act. But is there any evidence of a connection between dog food and behavior in dogs?

Dog Food Nutrition Needs to Be Balanced

Certainly, a poor diet can alter a dog’s normal behavior. Diets that are deficient in essential nutrients can lead to serious health issues, including anemia and brittle bones. If a dog isn’t feeling well because they’re weak or feeling pain, that can certainly impact their behavior.

That’s why one of the most important parts of any dog food label is the nutritional adequacy statement that indicates the pet food is “nutritionally complete and balanced” for your dog’s particular life stage. Commercial foods that list the nutritional adequacy statement have met the guidelines established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). 

Because the nutrient requirements (protein, essential amino acids, fat, vitamins and minerals) of dogs change over their lifetime, there are three nutritional adequacy statements that can be found on a dog food label depending on the diet: growth and reproduction, adult maintenance and all life stages. Diets that are designed for all life stages meet the nutritional requirements for both the growth and reproduction stage as well as adult maintenance stage. So make sure you consider your dog’s life stage when choosing their diet. A healthy dog is generally a happy dog! 

Yet even a healthy diet can become unbalanced if treats or table scraps make up more than 10 percent of the dog’s daily calories. Similarly, if you’re not following the feeding directions on the label, imbalances can occur. And unless homemade diets are prepared under the guidance of a veterinary nutritionist, it can be easy for dietary deficiencies to occur.

Does Raw Meat Make Dogs Aggressive?

It has been suggested that higher dietary protein may be associated with canine aggression. That’s why some recommend a low-protein diet for an adult dog with aggression problems. However, studies testing this concept have been flawed and results were conflicting, so more research is needed.

The theory behind the low-protein diet revolves around tryptophan, an amino acid involved in the production of serotonin, the neurochemical purported to create a calming effect. Tryptophan competes with other amino acids (which are components of protein) to cross the barrier into the brain. With less protein in the diet, it’s surmised there will be a greater chance for tryptophan, and eventually serotonin, to enter the brain, thereby promoting calm while reducing aggression.

Regardless, healthy adult dogs need at least 4.5 grams of protein per 100 calories of food, so there needs to be a minimum amount of protein provided.

Pet Food Nutrition and the Aging Canine Brain

Current research does support the positive effects of nutrition on brain aging.

Older dogs can experience cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS), which has been likened to human Alzheimer’s disease. Affected dogs may appear disoriented, interact less with family, lose house training and show changes in sleep/wake cycles, such as wandering around the house at night.

Several factors are thought to contribute to brain aging and cognitive decline in dogs, including chronic oxidative stress, reduced brain glucose metabolism and low-grade inflammation.

Some evidence has been found recently that certain ingredients, typically added to the diet or given in supplement form, may help improve clinical signs and slow cognitive decline in older dogs.

For example, antioxidants such as vitamins E and C in your dog’s diet may help neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals on cells, thereby protecting the brain from oxidative stress. These ingredients may have anti-inflammatory effects, as well.

To counter the effects of reduced cerebral glucose metabolism, medium-chain triglycerides in the diet can be converted to ketone bodies, providing the brain with an alternative energy source to glucose. In one study, dogs that were fed diets supplemented with medium-chain triglycerides performed better on cognitive tests than dogs fed the control diet.

How to Make Your Dog Happy

While good nutrition may have positive effects on canine behavior, many problems need a combination of therapies, including behavioral modification or training, environmental management and possibly medications. If you have questions about canine behavior and nutrition and how they may affect your dog’s life, your veterinary clinic is the best place to start.

Tips to Stop Your Dog’s Begging

Dog Begging for Food

Big holiday dinners have enough stress without your dog staging theatrics under the table. You know the schtick: the forlorn, puppy-dog eyes. The whimper. The fidgety tap-dance with the front paws. A pool of drool on the floor for good measure. The barking. And when all else fails, the futile attempt to paw a bowl of stuffing off the table.

Of course, other dinner guests may not appreciate how dang cute your dog’s antics are. But there are other reasons why you’d want to discourage dog begging. Feeding dogs table scraps can lead to upset tummies. Many human foods can be toxic to dogs. Those extra calories can pack on extra pounds. And it simply encourages an annoying behavior.

But there is a way to curb dog begging, so everyone enjoys Thanksgiving dinner, including your dog. Just follow these suggestions if you’ve ever asked how to stop a dog from begging.

Consistency Will Stop Your Dog From Begging

If your dog is sometimes rewarded with a bite of dinner roll, and other times isn’t, this is not only confusing for your dog but it can create an “addictive” expectation, not unlike people playing slot machines. Your dog will keep trying, knowing that at some point, they’ll hit the jackpot with a bite of turkey.

Once you decide to stop rewarding begging, everyone in the family should stop, too. Being consistent with your dog helps them understand that much sooner that begging won’t get them anywhere.

To Stop Dog Begging, Start Training Early

If your dog has been begging for years, he or she won’t transform into the perfect well-behaved pup overnight. If you have time, it helps to start training sessions a few weeks before the big night.

Train Your Dog to a Mat to Stop Dog Begging

If there’s time, you can train your dog to “down, stay” on a mat in the dining room so they can be with the family without being a bother. Start with a non-skid mat, a clicker and some treats. Any time your dog shows interest in the mat, even if he or she just looks at it, press the clicker and give a treat. Each move closer to the mat is rewarded the same way. When your dog steps on the mat, click and treat.

Toss a treat away from the mat, and when your dog returns and steps on the mat, click and treat. Next, start saying “mat” right before your dog steps on it, so he or she starts associating the word with the mat. In this way, gradually reward your dog for lying down on the mat. Extend the amount of time between the time your dog lies down and when you click and treat. With patience, you can eventually get your dog to stay on the mat during dinner, and you can reward good behavior by tossing treats to the mat.

Providing a Distraction to Dog Begging

During dinner, give your dog something even better than table scraps, like a frozen, stuffed Kong. Or consider a food puzzle, which provides entertainment and keeps your pet busy as they work for every kibble.

Ignore Your Dog’s Begging

It’s an attention-seeking behavior. That’s why it’s not enough to simply stop feeding your dog at the table. You also need to stop rewarding your dog with attention. Even negative attention, such as a stern look or gently admonishing your dog by saying, “Stop begging,” actually encourages the behavior. Instead, avoid looking at your dog and act like he or she isn’t in the room.

Initially, the begging may actually get worse, because your dog may think it just needs to try harder to get your attention. But if you stick to your guns and keep ignoring your dog, the behavior will eventually go away.

Help Your Dog Avoid Temptation

If possible, take your dog for a long walk so they can work off all that extra energy and spend some quality time with you. Then put them in a separate room with their favorite toy or a stuffed Kong so they’re not even tempted to beg during dinner. Then they can join everyone again after the food is safely put away.

Why Do Dogs Bite?

A close-up of a dog sniffing a human hand.

If you’re a dog parent, you’ve probably felt the imprint of canine teeth on your skin — whether it’s the sharp pinch of puppy teeth or an inadvertent nip during a game of fetch. But it’s the more dangerous bites, the ones that cause serious injury, bacterial infections or transmit diseases, that are of most concern.

According to the CDC, 1 out of 5 people bitten by dogs need medical attention. Sadly, many of these bites didn’t have to happen. So we’re sharing tips on how to know when a dog might bite, how to avoid being bitten and how to curb biting behavior in puppies.

Why Do Dogs Bite?

First, it’s important to know that any dog can bite — no matter what breed, age, size or usual temperament. Biting is a normal dog behavior. Even the most mild-mannered dog, if pushed to the edge, will bite. Most bites typically occur in the home with the family dog. Many dogs, especially those who aren’t well socialized, may bite if they feel fearful or threatened. Sneaking up on a sleeping dog and startling them may elicit a bite. And many dogs will bite if they’re in pain or simply don’t feel well.

Some dogs, understandably, are uncomfortable when a small child (or anyone) grabs their ears, tug on their paws or yank at their hair or tails. People who invade the dog’s personal space, especially when the dog is eating, can also be at risk of a bite. Dogs can become protective of their food, toys or other things they find valuable.

Why Is My Dog Nibbling Me?

From play-biting to grooming you, there are a variety of reasons why your dog nibbles on you. If you have a young puppy, they may be teething; and gently gnawing on you helps relieve their discomfort. Puppies also use their mouths to explore their world, which includes you. Adult dog nipping can happen when they’re excited to play with you or they’re trying to get your attention. They may also be showing you some love by grooming you: “Just checking you don’t have fleas.”

How to Train Your Puppy Not to Bite

Little puppy bites or letting your pup mouth your hand may not bother you, but when you think about them doing the same thing as an adult dog, that’s a good reason to curb this puppy behavior now. The first step is socialization. Letting your puppy experience many different situations, environments and people as a pup will help reduce the chances of them becoming fearful or feeling threatened as an adult.

Puppy bite inhibition is a natural behavior that lets pups play with other dogs without causing injuries (most of the time). If they bite hard, the other puppies will yelp and play will stop for a moment. Puppies learn that if they want play to continue, they need to mouth and bite their playmates gently. You want to make sure they learn bite inhibition behavior for people, too.

One technique you can try to stop puppy biting is mimicking what puppies do. If your puppy bites or mouths you, yelp and stop playing. Wait a few moments, then continue playing again. If that doesn’t work, you can also try directing their attention away from you with a chew toy or tug toy. If they’re nipping because they’re overly excited, try putting them in a safe space to calm down and then initiate play again when they’re calm.

Why Does My Dog Bite Me Playfully?

This is a behavior that dogs learn as puppies. Pups that have learned bite inhibition know that they can playfully bite their littermates without causing them injury (most of the time). Generally, you can tell if a dog is play-biting by looking at their body language. Dogs playing will have a relaxed or playful stance, whereas an aggressive dog will have tensed muscles and may be exposing their teeth.

How to Get Your Dog to Stop Biting

Teaching your adult dog that biting — even play biting — is not acceptable uses techniques similar to those used for puppies. Stop playing and ignore them for a short period of time so they understand that biting behavior ends playtime. If your dog bites when they’re excited, have a toy ready so you can redirect their playful energy toward the toy. You should avoid roughhousing or using your hands around their head to initiate play as this can encourage biting behavior. Don’t use physical punishment for biting, as this can lead to fear and aggression, which can result in more than just a nip.

Avoid Aggressive Bites by Understanding Canine Body Language

Most dogs will try to communicate that they are uncomfortable with a situation before resorting to biting. While a growl often serves as a warning that a dog may be on the verge of biting, knowing canine body language can be helpful, too. Fearful dogs will often crouch near the ground, tuck their tails between their legs or roll on their backs, exposing their bellies to show they’re submissive. These dogs will often yawn and lick their lips repeatedly.

Aggressive bites, on the other hand, typically come from a dog who is standing tall and firm with their tail held high, and possibly the hair bristling down their spine. Aggressive dogs may show more of the whites of the eyes, bare their teeth and snap at the air.

If you notice your dog displaying these behaviors, remove them from the situation and give them plenty of space. Don’t punish them for showing those behaviors — that’s your cue that something is wrong. Punishing your dog may result in them going straight to biting next time.

Follow Proper Dog Etiquette to Avoid Bites

Many dog bites in children can be avoided simply by never leaving young children unsupervised with a dog — even the family dog. Beyond that, it’s important to teach children basic respect for all dogs. That means leaving dogs alone if they’re eating, playing with a toy or sleeping.

People of all ages should always ask the owner for permission before petting a strange dog, then let the dog approach and sniff them first. Other common rules for avoiding dog bites include:

  • Don’t roughhouse with dogs or tease them with your hands.
  • Never run from a dog or scream while running.
  • If a loose dog approaches, stand very still, stay calm and firmly command them to “sit” or “stay.”
  • When faced with a potentially aggressive dog, put an object, like a bicycle or garbage can, between you and the dog.
  • Avoid staring directly into a dog’s eyes, which they may interpret as threatening.
  • If you fall down near a dog, curl up into a ball and lock your fingers over your ears and the back of your neck.
  • Do not kick or hit an approaching dog.
  • Do not approach dogs that are behind a fence or in a yard on a chain.
  • Never try to break up a dog fight with your hands or other body parts — make loud noises or spray water from a hose.

By giving strange dogs space and treating family dogs with respect, hopefully, you and your family members can avoid dog bites. If you’re concerned about your dog’s biting behavior, ask for professional help from either your veterinarian, a certified applied animal behaviorist or a certified professional dog trainer.

Train Your Dog to Herd Backyard Chickens

Taste of the Wild

Backyard chicken herding can be a relief for the hobby farmer for two reasons: first, it allows your chickens to range freely in the yard without hassle from predators; and second, it provides stimulating exercise for your pooch.

However, while your dog may have natural herding instincts, in order to successfully herd chickens, he or she will need training to learn to be gentle around the fowl and successfully herd them back into their coop.

Is my dog right for herding?

Herding dogs possess natural instincts and high intelligence, making them ideal for household and farming tasks.

The most common chicken-herding dogs are:

  • Australian shepherd
  • Border collie
  • Shetland sheepdog
  • Great Pyrenees
  • Collie
  • Welsh corgi

Other dogs can certainly learn to herd chickens — it’s just a bit easier to start with a breed that naturally enjoys the task.

Training your dog

Teaching your dog new skills

According to dog behaviorist and expert trainer Carolyn Georgariou, the key to your dog becoming a herding master is learning how to leave it. While your dog should know all the basics, such as comeheellie downsit, and stay, knowing how to leave it is essential for your dog to remain well-behaved around your chickens. If your dog struggles with these commands, well . . . chicken herding might be a bit of a reach.

Once your dog has these basic instructions mastered, move on to more complex commands. The goal, as you introduce your dog to your chickens, is to be able to implement your basic directions while training for more complex, herding-specific commands.

Gauging your dog’s behavior

Natural herding instincts will be displayed early on for many herding dogs. To spot these signs, watch how he or she interacts with you or other animals. If he or she likes to circle around you in an attempt to influence you in a specific direction, it is a good sign that he or she will easily and effectively learn how to herd your chickens.

Some dogs may even naturally start herding after watching you interact with the chickens.

“I used my Australian shepherd to herd chickens,” said Kim Pezza, author of the Backyard Farming series. “She watched me put the birds in for a short time, then one day she looked at me as if to say, ‘I want to help.’ Every night for the rest of her life, she brought the chickens in from the woods… however I never really trained her.”

Play some catch

Not only is playing catch an excellent form of exercise, it also teaches your dog basic obedience skills and will help him or her develop his or her chasing instincts. To make this more applicable to herding chickens (and to prevent thinning your flock unintentionally), teach your dog to catch only on command.

Introducing your herder to the herd

Start the introduction process slowly to avoid aggression from your dog. If your dog seems anxious, take a break and reintroduce the chickens after he or she has calmed down. Repeating this process will lessen the chance of your dog becoming overexcited around your backyard fowl in the future.

Don’t let the herder hurt the herd

After you’ve introduced your dog to your chickens and have started training him or her to herd real animals, watch your dog’s body language. It will be clear if your dog is capable of and ready for this task.

A good herder should approach the chickens with his or her tail down and run circles around them. If your dog does this while remaining attentive to your commands, you can be confident in him or her. If not, you may need to continue training — or even scrap the idea entirely.

Remember, if your dog is not interested in herding chickens, he or she will not respond to any chicken-related training that you introduce to him or her.

All in a day’s work

It takes time and commitment to train a dog to herd animals, but once this process is completed, your herding dog can be a very helpful resource for you and your backyard farm. By honing his or her herding skills, you’ll soon find that your dog will be ready to help you raise your chickens.