How to Get Your Dog Involved with Search & Rescue

Posted on November 2, 2015 - 8:16 am by
Taste of the Wild

From natural disasters to missing persons, search and rescue (SAR) dogs are irreplaceable and potentially life-saving partners for law enforcement agencies and first responders of all kinds. To become a SAR dog, both animal and handler must go through rigorous training that puts their intelligence, agility, stamina and determination to the test.

WHAT IS SAR?

SAR missions involve locating and providing immediate aid to people — or even other animals — who are in distress or imminent danger. These missions can occur in any location — large bodies of water, rugged terrain, urban and suburban locations, deserts, forests and, well, anywhere someone finds themselves in need of help. People and dogs involved in SAR missions must be ready to get the job done in any environment.

IN WHAT TYPE OF MISSION DOES A SAR DOG ASSIST?

SAR dogs are classified by the methods used to locate and follow scents.

The three types of dogs are:

  • Air-scenting (locating humans in general, tracking)
  • Following ground disturbances
  • Trailing (following the scent of a specific person)

Using their well-developed sense of smell, dogs use their noses to locate people in a variety of SAR missions, including:

  • Assisting law enforcement with crime scenes
  • Weather-related disasters
  • Earthquakes
  • Avalanches
  • Collapsed buildings
  • Drowning

WHICH BREEDS EXCEL AT SAR?

Becoming a SAR dog requires an immense amount of skill, and not every dog is up to this task. Breeds that traditionally are chosen as SAR dogs include German shepherds, Labrador retrievers, Dobermans, Rottweilers, giant Schnauzers and golden retrievers. Additionally, dogs should be fully grown (at least 18 months old) before beginning certification.

WHAT ARE THE TRAINING REQUIREMENTS?

Dogs can be trained for any situation — live person search, wilderness or urban tracking, disaster and cadaver searches — but to begin laying the groundwork for SAR training, many handlers will begin training their dogs as puppies by playing games such as hide and seek with the addition of simple commands.

SAR dogs must also prove their endurance, friendliness, trainability and agility to obtain their certification. The official SAR training can take anywhere from six months to two years, depending on the hours both the handlers and dogs are willing to put into it.

WHAT CERTIFICATIONS DO MY DOG AND I NEED TO BECOME SAR CERTIFIED?

In order to participate in SAR missions, groups require each dog and handler to pass the national certification and be recertified every few years.

Individual teams may have varying requirements for handlers, but most teams require handlers to have crime scene preservation, first aid, CPR, canine first aid, lost person behavior, map reading, compass use, and radio communication certifications along with courses in the Incident Command System. Handlers are also required to complete SAR-specific certifications.

In addition to nationally recognized obedience training, dogs must also complete their own SAR certifications. More information on this training is listed below.

WHERE CAN I OBTAIN MY/MY DOG’S SAR CERTIFICATIONS?

Nationally recognized SAR certifications are offered by a variety of organizations. Visit the following organizations’ websites to learn more about their training programs and certifications.

How to Train a Cat to Stay Off Counters & Tables

Posted on October 15, 2015 - 1:17 pm by
A cat lying on its side on a kitchen countertop.

Nothing is safe when cats jump on the countertops: cups spilled, picture frames tossed off the ledge and snacks eaten. No matter what you do, you can’t seem to make Fluffy stay off those alluring counters. So if you’re wondering how to correct common cat behaviors and stop your cat from jumping on the counter, read on!

Despite stereotypes of crying kittens stuck in trees, cats are agile and competent climbers. In the wild, they used this skill to hide from prey, rest in warm places away from predators and survey their territory. In your home, cats are still attempting to do these things, and it’s your breakables that pay the price.

What NOT to Do When Keeping Cats Off Tables or Kitchen Counters

  • Don’t scold or physically apply punishment when the cat jumps. Your cat might get off the counter that one time, but they won’t learn to stay down — they will only learn to be frightened of you.
  • After your cat jumps up, don’t shove them off of a ledge. They might fall and get hurt. Instead, keep a spray bottle handy. A light spritz of water every time your cat hops on the counter or table will discourage some cats in a hurry. Others might not care!
  • Don’t use loud or painful environmental punishers (like motion detectors that make loud noises). Your cat may become skittish and frightened of the entire room or house, not just that area.
  • Don’t leave food scraps on the table or kitchen counters. They’re like treats to cats!

​​Instead, consider these steps to discourage your cats from being kings of the countertops.

Step 1: Figure out why your cat is so drawn to those areas.

When wondering how to keep a cat off the table or how to stop a cat from jumping on counter tops, it helps to consider why they’re so interested in the first place. What are their reasons? Are they perching on the windowsill to watch birds? Snoozing on the warm fridge? Or just prowling around, looking for stuff to do and being destructive? All of these symptoms are your cat trying to talk to you about their environment. Maybe they just want a little of your attention, and that’s where you are.

Step 2: Provide substitutes to kitchen counters or tables.

Before you can successfully dissuade your cat from hanging out on the counters and tables, you will need to fulfill their needs in other ways. Perhaps a cat tree or climbing shelves, access to other windows, or a pet bed in a warm place would be a welcome substitute. Cat trees are readily available in every pet store. Just ask for cat trees or the cat tower aisle.

If your cat is knocking items off of shelves and tables, you may need to increase the mental stimulation of your home by providing new or different toys and games. Your cat’s behavior might be less than desirable because they have too much mental or physical energy.

Step 3: Make the countertops less alluring.

If your feline friend is drawn to the warmth and view of the window, close the blinds. If they like to snack, make sure the counters are clean and there are no dishes in the sink. If your cat likes to prowl the countertops, provide a cat counter deterrent! Temporarily cover them with aluminum foil to provide an unpleasant but harmless texture. When cats jump, they don’t like surprises, and the feel of unexpected aluminum foil will make them think twice next time. Double- sided tape can work the same way but isn’t great for some surfaces. Cats hate both textures!

Step 4: Provide playtime, every day.

Your cat needs to exercise for at least 10 minutes twice per day. Playing together will increase your bond and provide stimulation so Kitty won’t be so tempted by the interesting countertops. Try some tried-and-true kitty classics, like chasing a string or spraying toys with liquid catnip.

Step 5: Choose your battles.

Many cat owners choose to allow some kitchen counter climbing. Cats are natural climbers, and many cats like to be around their human families, drawn to high places in the room where their humans are hanging out. If your kitty simply can’t break their countertop habit, you may need to accept it as the price of admission for that cat’s love and companionship. Just frequently clean the kitchen counter so you’re not interacting with litter box residue!

Keep Your Cat Happy and Out of Trouble? Easy!

Wondering how to keep your cat off of counters and tables sometimes seems like a full-time job. But with a little investigation, some alternative climbing perches, positive reinforcement, and maybe even some clicker training methods, keeping your cat off the counter might be easier than you think.

Which Sport is Right for My Dog?

Posted on August 10, 2015 - 2:56 pm by
Taste of the Wild

So you’re thinking about getting your dog into sports.

Maybe you’d like to help improve your dog’s athletic abilities.

Puppy Falling Over As He Is Trying to Catch Toy | Taste of the Wild

Or maybe you’ve gotten the impression that your dog is hiding some amazing athletic talent.

Impressive Dog Balancing with Back Legs on a Chain | Taste of the Wild

Or maybe they have been exhibiting some worrisome behavior you’d like to correct. Whatever the reason, getting your pet involved in a sport is a great way to spend some time together and get some exercise while you’re at it.

Which sport is right for my dog?

When it comes to which activity is best for your dog, it probably comes as no surprise that certain breeds are better suited for certain activities. (We doubt you’d consider entering your English bulldog into a lure coursing event.) But for many breeds and beloved mutts, choosing a sport isn’t as cut-and-dry as playing fetch with your retriever.

The breed is the boss…well, mostly.

What may seem like a fun activity for you could satisfy an ingrained duty for your dog. Your dog’s ancestors spent their lives hunting, protecting, searching, socializing and solving problems. Skills like these are still ingrained in our canine friends. Often, these traits are manifested in the characteristics of our pets: a love for water, an addiction to fetch, unshakable loyalty, barking at squirrels and even (what we consider) behavior issues, such as separation anxiety or incessant digging.

Take note of your dog’s breed and natural tendencies. These are the best indicators for choosing a sport that is enjoyable and beneficial for you both.

Popular sports and events for dogs.

Agility Training

BEST FOR: Most breeds, mixes. Puppies and seniors (with modified obstacles). Smart and clever dogs. Escape artists. Loyal family dogs. Toy fiends.

AVOID FOR: Giant breeds susceptible to bone or joint issues.

Almost any dog can participate in agility sports, purebred or mixed breed. Yes, even your bulldog. Agility training consists of leading your dog through a series of obstacles in a race against the clock. This sport requires training, focus and conditioning. But it’s great bonding for you and your pet, and will give you a bit of a workout as well.

Typical obstacles on an agility course include weave poles, dog walk, jumps, pause table, tunnel, tire jump and teeter board. Though there are organized clubs for competitive agility training, this sport can be done in your own backyard and modified to fit almost any age, athletic ability and size of dog.

Equipment can be as advanced or as rudimentary as you like. If you have some extra poles and tires lying around, you can easily build your own agility course without too much of an investment. Otherwise, there are tons of sources that offer more than you’ll ever need to build a doggie’s dream course.

Flying disc

BEST FOR: Highly involved owners. Dogs with a knack for fetch. Jumpers.

AVOID FOR: Lazy dogs or those who tire/lose interest quickly. Most toy breeds.

Flying disc is basically Frisbee on another level. This sport is just as challenging and rewarding for the handler as it is for the dog. Competitions require the dog to fetch a disc thrown by their owner. In organized competitions, there are several different events that test accuracy, distance, time, zoning and even freestyle. Some of these events can get very entertaining and challenging, in which dog and owner interact for different catches. But with a little research and practice, you can easily turn your yard or local dog park into a flying disk dreamland that requires nothing more than — you guessed it — a flying disk.

Running/jogging

BEST FOR: High-energy adult dogs. Jumpers and those with short attention spans. Medium to large breeds. Overweight dogs.

AVOID FOR: Puppies and aging seniors. Aggressive or unsocialized dogs.

If you have a dog with excessive energy who knocks anyone and anything out of their path the minute they hear the jingle of a leash, you already know you’ve got a runner. But jogging can be good for many other dogs (and owners) as well. Small and medium dogs make for great running partners, particularly for owners who don’t exactly label themselves as “long distance.” Short-legged dogs have to take more steps per each one of yours. So a slower pace and shorter distances are ideal for them. As with any sport, gradual is key. If neither you nor your dog are avid runners, but you’re not one to spend a lot of time and money on training and equipment, start with a jog. Just keep safety in mind, and remember, a slow start can lead to great distances.

Off-leash dog parks

BEST FOR: All breeds, mixes. Bored dogs who may be causing mischief due to lack of socialization. Young to mid-aged dogs. Friendly, well-mannered dogs.

AVOID FOR: Puppies. Aggressive or anxious dogs. Dogs with or prone to injury. Intact males and females in heat.

Dog parks continue to gain popularity, and chances are, there’s one near you. Dog parks are great options for dogs who do well socially, with both other dogs and humans. Young dogs (under 2 years) benefit greatly by working off excess energy and learning social skills. They are also more willing to interact with others than older dogs. Before releasing the leash, do some homework. Call your local parks and recreation offices to find a park near you and check their rules.

Dock Diving

BEST FOR: Most breeds and mixes. Water lovers. Great fetchers and those who love to play with toys.

AVOID FOR: Puppies under 6 months. Some giant breeds.

Dock diving is a water sport in which dogs compete in jumping for distance or height. They aim for a toy and land in a body of water. From amateur to pro, there are several organizations and several ways to play, but typically you, the owner, will be who throws the toy in the water or sends the dog.

Earthdog Trials

BEST FOR: Terriers (Australian, cairn, Jack Russell, rat, silky, Skye, West Highland, wire fox, Yorkshire and more and more), dachshunds, full breeds

AVOID FOR: Large breed dogs

If you’ve ever seen your terrier spend hours trying to get under an old barn, downed tree or your house, then chances are you already know what this sport is about. In earthdog events, small dogs maneuver through an underground den or tunnel to find a rat (safely enclosed in a dog-proof cage) at the end. Though these events are typically noncompetitive, there are several skill levels to test your dog’s abilities. Though you won’t get much of a workout, your little guy will finally get to dig under more than the hay bale in your fall décor. Other than not actually getting to capture the bait, this event is what terriers dream about.

Herding events

BEST FOR: Herding and working breeds: collies, German shepherds, heelers, sheepdogs, corgis, cattle dogs, Rottweilers, and some mixed breeds. Trainers and dogs willing to go through training.

AVOID: Young puppies (if around unbroken livestock). Breeds not naturally inclined to herd, such as terriers.

Herding events let herding dogs do what they were born to do. This sport takes training and requires access to livestock, so it may be better suited for those who are looking to take their dog’s athleticism a little more seriously. However, many dogs’ herding instincts are so strong that you can have a right-hand dog with little work. In this sport, your dog will actually go out, gather a group of livestock and lead them to a desired location.

And then some…

This list is not comprehensive by any means. For every dog, there is an activity that suits them perfectly. Just keep your dog’s breed in mind and take interest in what seems to interest them. If a dog feels fulfilled in mind and body, they will be less likely to look for outlets to satisfy inner urges and perhaps even lose interest in shredding the mini blinds.

Of course, if you’re more of a cat person and you’re willing (and brave), there’s always this.

Good luck and remember, no one likes a sore loser…or winner. So make sure you and your dog warm up before any strenuous activities.

Summer Care for Dogs with Heavy Coats

Posted on August 6, 2015 - 2:56 pm by
Caring for heavy coats in summer

It’s hot. So you shed a couple layers and slick on some sunscreen before you jump in the pool. Lucky you. Summer clothing choices are easy for those of us without double coats of fur, like Aussies, collies, German shepherds, golden retrievers, huskies, malamutes, sheep dogs, Pomeranians and most herding dogs and terriers.

But before you get too concerned that your dog’s fur is causing them to sweat, remember that nature put all that hair there for a reason (well, that and the fact that dogs don’t sweat). However, there are a few things to consider for keeping your fur-loaded friend comfortable in the heat of summer.

Will Grooming Double-Coated Dogs Prevent Shedding?

Double-coated dogs will shed their undercoats in the summer. A good brush and a good deal of patience can go a long way.

By brushing your dog, you help get rid of the fluffy undercoat and allow air to circulate around the dog’s skin, which is one of your dog’s natural cooling mechanisms.

Helping your dog shed his or her undercoat can also help the skin stay drier, which in turn can help prevent skin complications from insect bites and hot spots. Give your buddy a daily brush to help keep him or her cool and comfy.

Should You Shave a Double-Coated Dog in Hot Weather?

Although it may seem contrary to logic, shaving a dog with a double-layer coat can actually do more harm than good.

A dog’s undercoat serves as insulation. That’s why they naturally shed it in the spring and summer. The topcoat allows cooling air to reach a dog’s skin while also protecting it from the elements, such as the sun’s UV rays. Shaving this outer layer removes your dog’s built-in cooling device and may expose his or her skin to the harmful effects of the sun and other elements, like biting insects.

So while it may be hard to imagine how all that fur could actually be keeping your pet cool, remember that dogs don’t sweat anywhere other than their nose and paws. They shed excess heat through panting. So put down the shears and fill up the kiddie pool.

That all being said, there are a few occasions when a trim can be beneficial. You may want to consider a canine haircut if your dog:

  1. Has long fur (1” or longer)
  2. Has a single-layer coat
  3. Lives primarily outdoors
  4. Has matted or knotted fur
  5. Gets wet often (including swimming in the pool or lake)
  6. Has a dark-colored coat
  7. Suffers from hot spots

How to Shave a Double-Coated Dog

  1. Never shave a double-layered coat.
  2. Hire a professional. Paying for this service is much less expensive than paying to mend a lesion or a burn caused by inexperienced clippers.
  3. For dogs with a single-layered coat, never cut the hair shorter than 1”. Anything shorter subjects your dog to sunburn, ingrown hairs or even cancer.
  4. Take care to remove any matted spots, as these can serve as hotels for pests, parasites or bacteria. But prevention is still key. Proper brushing and maintenance of long-haired dogs should prevent the need for drastic haircuts.

How to Cool Double-Coated Dogs in Hot Weather

WATER CAN HELP YOUR DOUBLE-COATED DOG COOL DOWN

The main way dogs regulate their body temperature is through their mouths. Panting allows them to circulate the necessary air through their bodies to cool down. So keeping cold water available for them to drink is imperative to prevent dehydration.

GET YOUR DOUBLE-COATED DOG A POOL THIS SUMMER

If your dog likes water, let him or her swim. Purchase a wading pool just for your dog, or take your dog to a dog park with a lake for swimming. Just remember to always put safety first. Use a flotation device if you take your dog on a boat, and never leave your dog around bodies of water unsupervised. Also, rinse your dog of chlorine or salt after a swim and make sure his or her coat dries thoroughly to prevent skin infections.

KEEP YOUR DOUBLE-COATED DOG OFF HOT ASPHALT

Hot asphalt can wreak havoc on any dog’s sensitive paw pads. When walking your dog, try to keep him or her on the grass and limit your time outdoors in the heat of the day. Take walks in the early morning or evening and always carry water.

SHADE IS A DOUBLE-COATED DOG’S BEST FRIEND

If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, ensure it has access to plenty of shade. But even in the shade, temperatures can soar (especially for dogs that were built for cold weather) so keep cold water available at all times and limit outdoor time if possible.

If you have concerns about your heavy-coat dog overheating, contact your vet. Also talk to your vet before trying any new cooling techniques, including a haircut.

What does the guaranteed analysis tell me?

Posted on May 20, 2015 - 8:15 pm by
Taste of the Wild

The beauty of the guaranteed analysis is that it gives you a lot of information about what is inside a bag of pet food. Once you understand how to read it, you will be better equipped to compare different varieties of pet food.

By AAFCO regulations, the guaranteed analysis is only required to list four nutrients: crude protein, crude fat, crude fiber and moisture. However, many pet food companies list additional guarantees not only to provide you with more information about the food but also as a mark of quality. The more things that are guaranteed, the more things that regulatory agencies can test for and fault a company for if they do not meet the level on the label. Because of variances between different types of laboratory equipment, sometimes foods can be faulted even if they truly are not deficient in one of their guarantees. Added guarantees mean that the company is working hard to manufacture a precise formulation each and every time, and you can be assured that bag to bag, that product is likely to be more consistent than a product that only guarantees the four required nutrients.

The first nutrient listed is crude protein. This is a measurement of the guaranteed minimum level of protein in the food. If the food guarantees a minimum of 21 percent protein, it is not going to contain 32 percent protein. By AAFCO regulations, a diet that states a guarantee of 21 percent protein may have no less than 20.4 percent protein. There is not a specified maximum, but the protein is typically within 2 percent of the target. So a 21 percent protein formula would range from 21 percent to 23 percent, but would most often be right at 21 percent or slightly higher. Your dog will benefit from a food that has protein from animal protein sources. After you check the level of protein, look at the ingredient listing to see where that protein is coming from.

The next listing is crude fat. This is also a minimum guarantee, with a 10 percent allowed variance. So, if the guaranteed minimum fat content is 15 percent, the minimum allowed by AAFCO would be 13.5 percent. Most foods very closely target the fat level, so expect very little variance in this nutrient.

Next comes crude fiber. This is typically pretty low, 2–3 percent, and is a maximum level. In hairball formulas for cats and weight loss formulas, you will usually see a higher level of fiber, usually 6–8 percent. Higher fiber formulas will result in larger stools than low fiber formulas, but this is to be expected.

Finally, you will see the moisture guarantee. In dry formulas, this is typically 8–12 percent maximum, and in canned formulas it is typically 75–85 percent.

Protein and fat will show the widest variance among different types of pet foods. Cat foods have higher protein content than most dog foods. Formulas specifically designed for athletes, puppies, and low carbohydrate formulas for dogs will have high protein content and often high fat content as well.