Selecting the Right Food for Your Cat

Posted on August 1, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

You love, love, love your cat, but who has time to stand in the cat food aisle reading every label? To simplify what has become a complex procedure, here are some general things to keep in mind when choosing cat food.

It’s all about the meat. Although you may be vegetarian or vegan, it simply won’t work for your cat. Felines are obligate carnivores, meaning that they need essential nutrients and amino acids that come from dietary meat. Pet food ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. Look for foods with meat, meat byproducts or fish appearing at the top of the list. This helps ensure your cat’s getting all the carnivorous nutrients it needs.

Consider your cat’s life stage. Rambunctious kittens need more calories, proteins and fats than adult cats. Same goes for pregnant and nursing cats. Start by looking for the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the pet food label. It should specify that the food is complete and balanced for your pet’s specific life stage, from growth (kittens) and gestation/lactation (pregnancy/nursing) to maintenance or all life stages.

Of course, a food designed for all life stages, including kittens, probably contains higher fats and calories than a maintenance diet, so feeding that to your sedentary older cat may lead to excess weight. Because these foods are complete and balanced, there should be no need for supplements, unless they’re recommended by your veterinarian.

Find your cat’s preference. Commercial cat foods are available in dry, semi-moist and canned formulations, all with pros and cons:

  • Dry foods can provide an abrasive surface to help remove plaque from teeth. They won’t get crusty in the bowl if your cat prefers to nibble throughout the day. On the other hand, some dry foods may not tickle your cat’s taste buds like canned foods can.
  • Semi-moist foods can be more palatable than dry foods, but they can dry out and become rancid if left in the bowl too long.
  • Canned foods are generally the most palatable diets to cats — and the most expensive. Unused food needs to be refrigerated to prevent spoilage.

Water, water, everywhere. Cats need plenty of fresh, clean water. And those with kidney and urinary tract issues tend to fare better with more water circulating through their systems. That could impact the type of food you choose, given that dry food generally contains 6 to 10 percent water, moist food is made of about 35 percent water and canned wins the prize with 75 percent water. For cats who prefer dry food but need to increase their water intake, pet water fountains are often useful. Additionally, your veterinarian can provide tips for transitioning from kibble to food with more moisture.

Treat a medical condition. Does your cat have diabetes, kidney disease, urinary tract stones or some other health problem? Your veterinarian may recommend a prescription diet. In these cases, the nutrients are balanced to help stabilize blood sugar, slow the progression of disease, manage urine pH or some other therapeutic goal. The key is to feed your cat only the prescription food and no treats unless they are approved by your veterinarian.

Set the mood. No matter how scrumptious the cat food is, your purr monster may not touch it if the food bowl is in a noisy, high-traffic area or too close to the litter box. Find a quiet, private area where your cat can focus on pleasing his or her palate in peace.

Cats can be finicky creatures, and the most important thing is to find food that meets their dietary needs. But if you can find that sweet spot between preference and necessity, cat and owner alike will purr.

Finicky Cats: Appeasing the Fussy Feline Palate

Posted on July 25, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

Is your cat hard to please at the food bowl? Does your feline sniff at food with disinterest, then turn his or her nose in the air and walk away? Do you grovel every night, offering up various delicacies in hopes of finally pleasing your cat’s discriminating taste buds?

You, my friend, have a finicky cat.

How long can the hunger strike last?

Cats generally can’t go too long without eating. After a few days of a hunger strike, cats can develop hepatic lipidosis, also known as fatty liver disease. This serious condition can make them even less interested in food, leading to liver dysfunction, a yellowing of the eyes, skin and tissues in the mouth, and even death.

If your cat hasn’t eaten in over 24 hours, contact your veterinarian for advice. Other medical issues such as dental or kidney disease may cause your cat to avoid the food bowl. Sometimes, treating the underlying medical disease can help your cat’s appetite return to normal. Depending on your cat’s condition, your veterinarian may recommend medications that either prevent pain, reduce nausea or stimulate the appetite to help get your cat eating again.

Choice is good. Or is it?

In some cases, the problem may be that you’re offering your cat too much of a smorgasbord: from different flavors to different types of food (dry, canned, semi-moist) or even different textures. Some cats simply become overwhelmed. The answer may be to find one food your cat likes and stick with it.

But there can be a multitude of other reasons why your cat isn’t eating, many of which may have nothing to do with the food itself.

Some tips to help your cat

If your cat doesn’t have an underlying medical problem, consider trying one of the following:

  • Location, location, location: Some cats won’t eat if the food dish is in a high-traffic or noisy area, near the litter box or in an area frequented by other pets. Move the dish to a quiet area where your cat can eat in peace.
  • Make the food more appealing: Pour low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth or tuna juice (from tuna packed in water, not oil) over the food.
  • Warm the meal: Canned food kept in the fridge may be too cold for some cats. For older cats that may have lost their sense of smell, warming the food slightly can enhance the aroma. (Be sure that the food isn’t too hot so it won’t burn your cat’s mouth.)
  • Chill the food: Nauseous cats may not like the smell of food; chilling it may reduce the smell.
  • Clean the bowl: Many cats don’t like to eat from dirty bowls with crusted-on food. Cleaning the bowl after every meal can also help reduce unwanted bacteria in the bowl.
  • Swap a plate for the bowl: If the sides of your cat’s bowl interfere with his or her whiskers, try something wider and shallower.
  • Change the kind of food. If your cat has been eating dry kibble, try canned food. Any abrupt change in diet can cause tummy upset, so be sure to transition to the new food over 5 to 7 days. Each day, gradually mix in more of the new diet and less of the former.
  • Feed smaller, more frequent meals. This is especially important if your cat eats a canned food. Smaller meals prevent leftover food from drying out and sticking to the bowl and reduce the amount of food you have to throw out.
  • Praise your cat for eating. Some cats respond well to petting and crooning, while others may prefer to eat in quiet. See which one works for your cat.
  • Avoid home-cooked meals. It’s difficult to create a home-cooked meal that meets the nutritional requirements for cats. If you choose to go this route, work with a veterinary nutritionist or use the Balance IT website for assistance.

If your cat is gagging or appears nauseated, avoid force-feeding your feline, because that may result in a food aversion. Often, cats may continue to refuse food after the nausea has passed because they associate the food with a negative experience. In extreme cases, your veterinarian may recommend a feeding tube so your cat still receives proper nutrition without the stress.

By working with your veterinarian, you can help make sure your cat receives the nutrition he or she needs, treat underlying medical problems that may be hindering the appetite, and hopefully, help your cat fall in love with the food bowl all over again.

Missing Dog: A Guide to Finding Lost Dogs

Posted on July 11, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
An empty plastic dog crate lying on a table with the door open.

You and your dog are besties. You play together and rest together; when you go out, you’re guaranteed an exuberant welcome back. Even so, dogs have been known to wander away in pursuit of enticing smells or interloping squirrels. They might get out of the house to chase the mail carrier or bolt at the sound of fireworks. They may even escape after a car accident or while you’re on vacation. So how can you track down your dog when they get lost?

Help! I Lost My Dog!

First, try to be calm. If your dog has a current ID tag on their collar and a microchip, there’s a good chance a good Samaritan will call you shortly. Other pet owners have experienced — or worry about — their own missing pets, so they’re likely to do what they can to help find your missing dog.

How to Find a Lost Dog

Here are six tips to help you be reunited with your best friend as soon as possible:

1. Scour the Neighborhood

Most lost pets don’t go far unless they are chased. Make the rounds several times a day and bring your dog’s favorite squeaky toy or treat, if possible, to lure them closer. If your dog is outfitted with a GPS tracking device, that will make the hunt much easier.

2. Create Flyers

Chances are, your dog’s photo is on your cell phone. Use this image to create a “Lost Dog” flyer with your contact information. It may help to offer a reward. Keep the description brief and omit one characteristic that callers will need to identify to help eliminate pet recovery scams.

3. Post Flyers in the Surrounding Area

Grocery stores and pet supply stores may have bulletin boards for local announcements. While you’re searching the neighborhood, alert people you pass about your dog and consider dropping off flyers in doorways.

4. Call Your Veterinary Clinic and Microchip Company

Notify them that your dog is missing. If your dog’s ID tag has been lost, it may be possible for finders to use the rabies tag to track your dog to your usual clinic. If your dog has a microchip, make sure the company has your most current contact information.

5. Contact Local Animal Control Agencies and Veterinary Clinics

People often take wandering dogs to their local veterinary clinics so they can be scanned for a microchip. You can also call pet shelters and rescue groups in a 60-mile radius to see if your dog has been dropped off there. If possible, send them a digital copy of your missing pet poster.

6. Use Online Resources

Petco Love Lost has a national database that enables you to upload a photo of your lost pet. The photo is then digitally matched against photos of found pets in the area. Sites such as Fido Finder help you act quickly to get the word out about your lost dog. You can also alert local residents on Craigslist, Nextdoor, Facebook groups and similar outlets. For a fee, pet recovery services will contact local shelters and veterinarians for you so you can keep up your search of the surrounding area.

What to Do if You Find a Lost Dog

If you have found a dog, flip the strategies listed above. First, remember to be careful when approaching stray animals — you don’t know how long they’ve been loose or how anxious they are about their experiences. Check lost pet listings on the social media sites you have access to; that Facebook page where you report your lost animal usually lists lost and found pets, so you can spread the word about the dog wandering in your neighborhood as well as searching for your own missing pal. A veterinarian can scan for the dog’s microchip information so the owners can be contacted. You could be the person who reunites a lost dog with their family!

What You Should Know About Pets and Sunscreen

Posted on July 4, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

Does your pet love to bask in the sun? It’s not as harmless as it seems. Because pets can get sunburned — and develop skin cancer — too.

Unfortunately, a fur coat doesn’t always prevent pets from experiencing the harmful effects of UV rays. Like fair-haired people, dogs and cats with white or sparse coats, unpigmented skin and/or pink noses tend to be more susceptible to sunburn.

That means short-coated breeds such as pit bulls, boxers, bulldogs and Dalmatians that lack pigment may get more than their fair share of sunburns. Not surprisingly, hairless breeds including Chinese crested dogs or sphynx cats can be at risk. And if your pet has hair loss from allergies or is shaved down to stay cool in the summer, you guessed it — exposed areas can be sunburned.

For most dogs, relatively hairless areas such as the armpits, groin and belly are commonly sunburned. Same goes for areas of the face, including the ears, around the lips, on the bridge and sides of the muzzle as well as eyelids.

And your white cat that snoozes in the sun as it slants onto the living room rug? It can get sunburned too, without even going outdoors. Common sunburn locations for cats include the ears, the skin directly in front of the ears, and the areas around the eyes, nose and lips.

Harmful UV rays

Ultraviolet (UV) rays can penetrate the skin and cause changes inside cells that can lead to skin aging and several types of cancer. UVB rays, which consist of relatively short wavelengths, tend to penetrate the superficial layers of skin and generally cause the redness associated with sunburn.

The majority of UV rays — nearly 95 percent — consist of “longer” UVA rays, which can penetrate through glass and deeper into the skin than UVB rays, potentially causing damage that can lead to skin cancer.

Protecting your pet

The best way to protect your pet is to keep it out of the direct sun during the parts of the day when UV rays are most intense, typically between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. For indoor sunbathers, consider closing the shades or applying window film that helps block UV rays in your pet’s favorite sunny spot.

When venturing outdoors, apply sunscreen to exposed areas of your dog or cat. Your veterinarian can recommend a sunscreen made especially for pets. Typically, these products are fragrance-free and do not contain ingredients that are potentially toxic to pets such as zinc oxide and para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA). Ideally, the product should help protect against both UVA and UVB rays.

If you can’t find a pet-specific sunscreen, one designed for babies and children may be an option. Look for a broad-spectrum, fragrance-free, waterproof product with an SPF of at least 15 or 30. Again, make sure the product doesn’t contain zinc oxide or PABA. Human sunscreens may also contain ingredients such as octyl salicylate, a derivative of aspirin. Since cats are especially sensitive to aspirin, avoid these products in cats that might ingest the ingredient while grooming. If you have any concerns about a particular product, don’t hesitate to consult with your veterinarian.

Apply the sunscreen about 15 to 20 minutes before your pet will be in the sun. Rub the sunscreen into the areas most exposed, such as the ears, nose, armpits and groin, while avoiding the eyes. Prevent your pet from licking the areas for about 15 minutes, until the sunscreen is absorbed into the skin. Even if the product is waterproof, you’ll want to reapply it every four to six hours if your pet is swimming or outside for any length of time.

Sunscreen alternatives

It’s easy to find sun-protective pet clothing, some of which is made with ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). A UPF of 50 means that 1/50th of the sun’s UV rays can reach the skin. You can even outfit your pet with hats and goggles to help cut down on glare. Just remember to make sure your pet doesn’t overheat because it’s wearing an extra layer in the sun.

Once you and your pet have had fun in the sun, find a nice, quiet place to relax — in the shade.

Dogs at Work: TSA Dogs Tackle Security Before Takeoff

Posted on June 27, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Two German Shepherd Dogs Working with TSA Agents at the Airport

Transportation Security Administration (TSA) dogs can’t prevent turbulence during your flight, but they can help you fly through security a little faster.

Trained to sniff out a range of explosives at airports and other transportation hubs, these dogs can screen passengers — without touching them — faster than traditional methods. And that helps loosen airport bottlenecks.

A nose for explosives

A good explosive detection dog starts with an extraordinary sense of smell. Easily found, considering that the average dog can detect a teaspoon of sugar in a million gallons of water (enough to fill two Olympic-sized pools), according to the book Inside of a Dog by Alexandra Horowitz, a dog cognition researcher at Barnard College.

But the dogs also need a high-energy drive to hunt (usually for a reward). That’s why the TSA generally focuses on hunting or working breeds, including German shepherds, Belgian malinois, Labrador retrievers, golden retrievers, German short-haired pointers, wirehaired pointers and Vizslas.

While slightly less important, another canine trait the TSA values is floppy ears. The rationale is that dogs with ears that fold gently over their heads may be less intimidating (and less likely to scare children travelers) than dogs with straight-up ears.

It takes two

Even with a sensitive sense of smell and a strong hunting drive, dogs need a trained handler on the other end of the leash. Transportation security inspectors make up about 35 percent of the handlers, but the majority are local and state law enforcement officers.

The dogs actually live with the handlers, so they are truly a team on and off the job.

Training in real-life environments

Passenger-screening dogs and their handlers go through an intensive 12-week course at the Canine Training Center at Joint Base San Antonio-Lackland in San Antonio, Texas.

The 25,000-square-foot facility includes 13 full-scale “sets” constructed to look like actual scenes where the dogs will eventually work, including an airport gate area, a security checkpoint, a baggage claim area and an aircraft interior where dogs can clamber on seats to sniff overhead bins. The facility even employs people to play the role of passengers.

Using positive-reinforcement techniques, the dogs are rewarded with treats, chew toys or praise each time they detect the scent of an explosive. This helps them focus on the relevant scents and keeps them motivated to keep searching. Dog teams are also trained at other locations in the geographic area, such as the San Antonio International Airport and the local bus station.

About 83 percent of dogs in the program pass the training. The remainder are adopted out through a special TSA program, but currently there’s a long waiting list, so unfortunately, the organization can’t accept any more applications for the time being.

A lifetime of training

Of course, the training doesn’t stop after graduation.  The teams first go back to the location they’ll be stationed to allow the dog to acclimate to the sights, sounds and distractions of the environment.

Handlers also keep training the dogs on a weekly basis. The dogs need to be rewarded for finding the correct scent periodically to keep them interested and disciplined. Teams must also be recertified every year, when they may learn new scents, depending on emerging intelligence data.

Although it may be tempting to pet these dogs when you see them in the airport, please don’t. They need to focus on the important job of keeping you safe, without distraction.

Eventually, these hard-working dogs do get to enjoy a laid-back retirement. Some of these dogs may be available for adoption, but since the handlers and trainers get first dibs, they’re generally welcomed into the houses they already know as home.

A Fracas at the Food Bowl: Food Guarding in Dogs

Posted on June 6, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

Almost every dog relishes the food dish. Many dogs will show their enthusiasm by spinning in circles or dancing on their hind legs when the bowl makes an appearance. But once the bowl is on the floor, some dogs can become downright territorial, growling, lunging and even biting if anyone approaches their bowl.

It’s mine, mine, mine

Dogs with this “food-guarding” behavior generally become protective or aggressive to maintain possession of foods or treats. The aggression can be directed at other pets and even people. Typically, a dog with food-guarding tendencies may stiffen, raise its hackles or growl when another dog or person approaches the food. It may run into another room with a treat or it may defend its territory by snapping or even biting.

Food guarding is a subset of resource guarding, in which dogs display this behavior around toys, bones, or other “high-value” items. It is a normal behavior in the wild where wolves, coyotes and other canids sometimes compete for limited food. But in a regular household — especially one with small children — this resource guarding can be dangerous.

What causes food guarding?

The behavior is most likely a combination of genetics, early experiences during puppyhood and learned behaviors. Some surmise that puppies develop this tendency if the entire litter was fed out of one bowl and puppies had to compete for food.

However, some dogs may growl if they have medical conditions that cause pain when at the food bowl, such as a broken tooth or arthritis. Other medical conditions that increase their appetite or thirst may cause dogs to be aggressive around their bowls, too. That’s why it’s important to ask your veterinarian to rule out medical causes first, because resolution of those conditions may in turn eliminate the food guarding.

What not to do

If your dog shows signs of food aggression, punishment or grabbing the food bowl away aren’t the answer. If anything, those actions may escalate your dog’s anxiety, fear and aggression. The dog may respond by guarding other items in an effort to maintain control.

At the same time, retreating when your dog shows aggression may also reinforce the behavior. If your dog shows severe signs of aggression, for your safety, consider working with a veterinary behavior specialist, a certified applied animal behaviorist or professional trainer with experience in food aggression.

Changing food-guarding behaviors

Always start with your veterinarian to make sure there aren’t any underlying health conditions contributing to the issue.

If the food guarding is relatively mild, it may suffice to put the dog in a separate room, away from other pets or people, while it eats food, treats or plays with a high-value toy. If the dog is consistently fed in this non-threatening environment, it may help reduce the motivation to become aggressive.

You can begin teaching your dog to be calm around the food bowl with desensitization and counter-conditioning, but this should only be done if you are confident you’re not in danger. The goal is to teach your dog that it can be a positive experience when you approach the bowl because you may offer an even more delectable treat.

Start by standing a few feet away from your dog during meal time, talk to your dog in a conversational tone and periodically toss treats your dog adores near the bowl, such as hot dog slices or cheese. Do this for every meal for the first week.

If your dog remains calm, take a step toward the bowl, drop the treat and take a step back. Continue doing this for another week, as long as your dog remains calm. Gradually move closer to the bowl and drop a treat in the bowl while your dog is eating. If your dog tolerates this, gradually move close enough to offer a treat from your hand while the dog is eating.

As long as your dog doesn’t seem anxious, you can gradually move to touching the bowl with one hand while offering a treat with the other hand, then gradually lifting the bowl while offering a treat.

In severe cases, your veterinarian may recommend medications to help reduce your dog’s anxiety level. Even so, food guarding may not be completely cured, but it can be managed. And when your dog is less anxious around the food bowl, you can be, too.

Termite Dogs and Other Pest-Detecting Canines

Posted on May 23, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

When your dog peers under the kitchen stove growling for hours, you can be pretty sure there’s some kind of varmint under there. If you’re lucky, your pet comes by these pest-hunting skills naturally, and somehow, the unwelcome critter will disappear.

Other dogs, however, are specially trained to hone their hunting skills on vermin of the six-legged sort. If dogs can be trained to sniff out bombs, drugs and even cancer, why not termites and bedbugs, right?

Seeing Through Walls

It’s estimated that hungry termites are responsible for $1 to $7 billion worth of damage in the United States each year, according to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). Because termites are usually tucked behind Sheetrock and plaster, they can’t always be detected until they’ve wreaked a tremendous amount of damage.

Termite dogs to the rescue! These pups can be trained to detect the methane emitted by termites as they digest wood. So they’re often able to identify an infestation well before a human inspector can. In studies, trained dogs were able to detect groups of 40 termites or more with about 95 percent accuracy. If that’s not impressive enough, they could even discriminate between live termites and wood that had been previously damaged by termites as well as cockroaches and ants.

When matched against electronic detection devices, the dogs won by a long shot with an average of 98 percent accuracy.

What Lurks Under the Covers

Bedbugs are the bane of hotels, apartments, dorms, cruise ships and other places that offer temporary housing. While they don’t transmit disease, they do feed on people and animals while they sleep, which can cause itching, inflammation and general revulsion. In rare cases, people can have an allergic reaction when bedbugs bite.

Unfortunately, bedbugs are not only tiny and nocturnal, but they can be experts at hiding inside mattress seams, behind baseboard cracks and crevices and even under light-switch covers. Thankfully, dogs can be trained to sniff out these tiny invaders, too.

In studies, trained dogs were able to sniff out live bedbugs, shed bug skin and even bedbug pheromones with 100% accuracy. However, several pest control companies have been reported for using “trained” dogs to find bedbugs that weren’t, in fact, there when other companies checked the premises. So, if you hire a company with trained bug-sniffing dogs, make sure to ask for the dog’s credentials. Honest companies will be happy to show you proof of training.

That way, you don’t get bit twice.

Should I Spend the Money on a Breed-Specific Diet?

Posted on May 16, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild Pet Food

Last year, owners spent almost $73 billion on their pets, according to the American Pet Products Association. What accounted for the majority of those expenditures? Was it veterinary care or toys? Actually, the single largest expense, accounting for just over $30 billion was — you guessed it — pet food.

As if choosing between dozens of brands and flavors wasn’t overwhelming enough, now there’s another factor in the mix: breed nutrition, or pet foods tailored to specific dog and cat breeds. Designed around the health conditions that may be common to those breeds, these diets may also feature kibble shapes and sizes tailored for your breed’s particular mouth.

Do they help?

First off, a breed-specific diet probably won’t harm your pet. And special kibble design might be helpful. For example, kibble shape and size can be designed to make it easier for flat-nosed pets (think pugs and Persians) to pick up and chew food with their short jaws. And larger, donut-shaped kibble might help a Labrador eat a little slower, rather than inhaling each meal.

But can these diets really help prevent particular health issues?

Currently, we know a lot about disease prevalence among breeds, but there’s very little research available on whether nutrition will prevent those diseases. What’s more, over-the-counter maintenance diets aren’t legally allowed to make claims about preventing, treating or curing a disease. Only therapeutic diets, provided under the guidance of a veterinarian, can do that — and only after demonstrating that the food actually lives up to the claim.

Choose a diet based on your pet’s needs

The truth is, there are plenty of diets on the market that suit your pet’s (and your wallet’s) needs. Your veterinarian can recommend a few diets based on your pet’s size, life stage and health.

For example, large-breed puppies — whether they’re Newfoundlands or mastiffs — can benefit from special diets designed to help them grow slowly so they’re less likely to develop orthopedic conditions such as hip dysplasia.

In terms of life-stage, puppies generally require more protein and calories to meet their higher energy requirements than geriatric dogs who spend most of the day snoozing on the couch.

And nutrition can certainly help manage some health conditions. A high-fiber, low-calorie diet, for example, might help a chubby dog slim down a bit. But a dog that’s just the right weight doesn’t need this kind of diet.

The bottom line is that there may be some benefits to breed-specific diets, but there are also plenty of other diets that are suitable for your pet. And breed-specific diets aren’t a replacement for therapeutic diets specifically designed for a particular health condition. When in doubt, count on your veterinarian who knows your pet’s nutritional needs.

He or she can even recommend what’s best for mixed-breed dogs, or mutts, that make up an estimated 53 percent of dogs in the United States. Because they deserve solid nutrition, too.

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

Flea and Tick Prevention for Dogs: A Beginner’s Guide

Posted on May 9, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
A close-up of a dog lying in the grass itching its ear.

Fleas and ticks not only annoy your dog, they can transmit diseases as well. Fleas can transmit tapeworms and bacteria, and some dogs are allergic to flea saliva, a condition called flea allergy dermatitis. The bite of a single flea can cause severe itching, inflammation and hair loss in dogs susceptible to flea allergy dermatitis.

Ticks aren’t innocent either; they can transmit the organisms that cause dangerous diseases such as Lyme disease (transmitted by deer ticks and western blacklegged ticks) and Rocky Mountain spotted fever (transmitted by American dog ticks, brown dog ticks and Rocky Mountain wood ticks).

It’s important to protect your dog from these pesky little suckers, but there are a myriad of options to choose from when it comes to tick and flea control in dogs. So we’ve created this guide to help you learn about the different types of tick and flea preventives.

Tick and Flea Treatment for Dogs

Flea and tick control products for dogs come in many forms, including shampoos, collars, spot-on topical treatments and oral treatments. We have described the differences between each type below, but always ask your veterinarian which prescription or over-the-counter flea and tick products are right for your dog.

If you have multiple dogs, don’t split doses of flea and tick preventives between them. Most of these products provide a specific dose for the weight of the dog. If you split the doses, your dog may not receive an effective dose to help ward off fleas and ticks. You should also check if there are age or weight requirements for puppies.

Topical Treatments: Do Tick and Flea Collars Work?

It’s important to know that all topical products (collars and spot-on topical treatments) don’t kill fleas and ticks as soon as they are applied to your dog. Ticks and fleas need to come in contact with the chemical, so it can take hours to kill most adult fleas and ticks after treatment. Dogs can also pick up new fleas and ticks when they visit flea- or tick-infested areas, which is why you may see live fleas and ticks on your dog even though they’re wearing a flea and tick collar. However, if the collar is used appropriately, those new fleas and ticks should be dead within 24 hours.

Some topical treatments can also provide protection against chewing lice, ear mites, biting flies and heartworm. While a topical solution is quick and easy to apply and doesn’t require fleas and ticks to feed on your dog, application can be hard and efficacy can be affected if your dog has a thick coat. There is also the potential for chemical exposure to people and other pets. Most topical treatments are administered monthly.

Don’t use your dog’s topical flea and tick medication on your cat. Many spot-on canine flea and tick medications contain permethrin or pyrethroid. These active ingredients can be extremely toxic to cats, leading to adverse effects such as drooling, seizures and, in some cases, death.

Oral Tick and Flea Treatments for Dogs

With oral prevention products, fleas and ticks must feed on the dog (bite them) before they are exposed to the medication. So like topical treatments, oral treatments usually won’t kill fleas and ticks immediately, although they typically work faster than topical products. Any new fleas and ticks also need to feed on your dog before they are killed.

Oral flea and tick control products remove the risk of chemical exposure to other pets and people after administration. Some oral flea and tick products provide protection against intestinal parasites (hookworms and roundworms) and heartworm disease as well. While most products are flavored with a dog-approved taste, giving an oral treatment to some dogs can be challenging.

Flea Shampoo for Dogs

Flea shampoo is a treatment rather than a preventive. If your dog has a flea infestation, medical shampoos can immediately kill fleas that are on your dog, but they won’t stop fleas from coming back. You also need to use a flea preventive treatment.

You can also purchase a flea comb that is designed to remove fleas, as well as flea larvae and eggs, from your dog’s coat. Brush your dog’s fur as close to the skin as possible to capture the fleas. As you’re combing, get rid of any fleas you find by dunking the comb in a bucket of soapy water.

Safety is important if you have a cat in the house. Some dog flea shampoos contain ingredients that are toxic to cats. Be sure to read the label before bathing your dog.

Whichever form you decide to use, if you have a flea infestation, all pets in your home need to be treated for fleas. Any untreated pets can become the source of new flea infestations. Fleas are opportunistic and great at hiding. You can find them in your dog’s bedding, in upholstered furniture, even between cracks in flooring. In addition to treating all pets in your home, you should treat fleas in your dog’s environment as well, using over-the-counter insecticides or by calling an exterminator.

How to Remove a Tick from a Dog

If your dog encounters a tick-pocalypse and is covered in ticks, take them to your veterinarian. They can recommend a fast-acting product to kill most of the ticks, and then you can remove the rest manually. If your dog only has a few ticks, you can remove them using fine-tipped tweezers or forceps. Follow these steps:

  1. Grasp the tick with tweezers as close to the skin as possible, avoiding the tick’s body.
  2. Gently, firmly and steadily pull on the tick until it comes out.
  3. Don’t jerk or twist the tick as the mouthpart may break off and remain in the skin.
  4. Clean the wound with soap and water.
  5. Clean your tweezers with rubbing alcohol.
  6. Place the tick in a sealed bag and dispose of it.
  7. Monitor the site for signs of infection (redness, swelling, pus or pain).

Don’t panic if the mouthparts remain embedded in the skin. They will be expelled naturally by your dog’s body in a few days. The good news is that the tick can no longer transmit disease if their body is gone.

Even with tick medications, ticks may not be killed immediately. The sooner you can find and remove ticks, the less chance the ticks have of transmitting disease-causing organisms. Before bringing your dog inside, run your hands over their body and check around the ears.

While there are “home remedies” for removing attached ticks, many are actually dangerous to your dog (and you). Here is some more info on what NOT to do when removing a tick.

Indoor Dogs Need Tick and Flea Prevention Products, Too

Dogs who spend most of their time indoors can still be at risk of flea and tick bites. Mice can carry fleas into your house, and feral cats, raccoons and opossums can drop flea eggs in your yard. Ticks can hitchhike on urban wildlife such as deer and coyotes and drop off along the paths you walk with your dog. Even when your dog spends most of their time indoors, it’s pretty easy for fleas and ticks to hitch a ride.

Avoid “Natural” Flea and Tick Treatments

Some topical products rely on essential oils such as peppermint or lemongrass oils to kill or repel fleas. Feeding dogs garlic is supposedly another natural way to eliminate these pests. Unfortunately, these approaches are usually not effective in breaking the flea life cycle and can actually be toxic to dogs. For safe, effective control, it’s always best to rely on your veterinarian’s advice.

Stay on Top of Flea and Tick Preventives

Even though we tend to think of fleas and ticks as spring or fall problems, it’s important to use flea and tick protection on your dog all year. Many of these parasites are still active during the winter months, no matter how cold it may get, so providing year-round protection is important.

Finding fleas or ticks on your dog is never fun, and it’s not easy keeping your dog free of these annoying parasites. But if you follow these tips, you can help minimize the dangers that ticks and fleas can bring.

Born to Pull: Carting and Drafting Dogs

Posted on April 18, 2019 - 3:00 pm by
A large black and white dog wearing a cart-pulling harness.

Over the years, horses have been used to pull just about every type of wagon, from covered wagons to hay wagons and even beer wagons. But did you know that dogs also have a place in cart-pulling history?

Pulling their weight

Since about the 18th century, dogs often pitched in around the farm by pulling carts through the fields or bringing cheese and milk to town. They also hauled the day’s catch from the waterfront to the fish market or brought home mail and packages. Even arctic breeds were put to work pulling sleds over the tundra.

As you can imagine, chihuahuas were not among those dogs carrying lumber through lumber camps. Most of the work was shouldered by sturdier breeds from the working dog class, such as Bernese mountain dogs, Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, Leonbergers, greater Swiss mountain dogs, bouviers des Flandres and Great Pyrenees.

Often referred to as the poor farmer’s horse, dogs were less expensive to purchase and maintain than horses. Because they were smaller in size, dogs could maneuver through tight alleys and crowded streets more easily than horses. Better yet, dogs could double as companions and guard dogs.

A change of heart

During the Victorian period in England, the Metropolitan Police Act of 1839 prohibited the use of dogs to “draw any Cart, Carriage, Truck or Barrow.” At a penalty of up to 40 shillings for a first offense, the law was intended to curb the use of carting dogs: it was suspected that dogs were carriers of rabies and some citizens were beginning to believe that it was cruel to put dogs to work this way.

Carting as a competitive sport

While the idea of cart-pulling dogs faded into retirement, some people felt that the dogs still had the instinct to pull and were, in fact, happy to have the job. Around the 1970s, interest in the sport of carting, or drafting, blossomed, leading to the first Saint Bernard carting competition in 1988 and a Bernese mountain dog event in 1991.

Today, almost any breed (including mixed-breed dogs) can participate in carting competitions or sports like urban mushing. Even so, that doesn’t mean every dog should compete. To begin with, you’ll want to make sure your dog really enjoys the sport. And a veterinarian should examine the dog and determine that there aren’t any physical or medical conditions that could be exacerbated by the activity. Finally, you’ll need to commit to proper training to help avoid any injuries to your dog.

While carting can be good exercise, most breeds shouldn’t compete before two years of age to make sure their bones and joints are fully developed. Dogs should also know basic obedience commands such as “stay” and “come.”

It’s best to work with an experienced trainer who can recommend the type of harness and cart that will not only be comfortable for your dog but won’t restrict limb movement. Once you gradually introduce your dog to the harness and cart, you can start working on more advanced tasks such as turns, circles, halts and figure-eights.

Remember, positive reinforcement in the form of treats or praise can help make this experience more rewarding for your dog and help strengthen the bond between you.