Dogs at Work: The Path to Getting a Guide Dog

Posted on April 23, 2020 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Last year, Thomas Panek made history at the New York City Marathon — not because he broke time records, but because he was the first blind person to run the half marathon with the aid of a relay of guide dogs: Waffle, Westley and Gus.

As president and CEO of Guiding Eyes for the Blind, a nonprofit school that trains guide dogs, it was Panek’s way of encouraging other people with vision loss to do what makes them happy.

But what, exactly, do guide dogs do? And how does someone with vision loss get a dog of their own? In recognition of International Guide Dog Day on April 29, we’ll share the scoop on these dedicated canines.

Guide dog job description

The term “seeing-eye dog” is a bit of a misnomer because it implies that these dogs act as the handlers’ eyes, leading the way for them. That’s not really true. Before being matched with a dog, most handlers, who may be blind or retain some low vision, must demonstrate that they have orientation and mobility skills. It’s the handler’s responsibility to direct the dog to the post office, for example, and know how many blocks and turns it will take to get there.

The dog typically doesn’t know where the post office is located, unless it has been trained precisely to that location. It’s the dog’s job to guide the handler around garbage cans and other obstacles and alert the handler to the location of steps and curbs. Same goes for traffic lights: the dog doesn’t know when the light turns green. It’s the handler’s job to listen to traffic and determine when it’s safe to cross. Some dogs, if they sense the crossing isn’t safe, may decide not to cross, in an action known as “intelligent disobedience.”

Obtaining a guide dog

People interested in having a guide dog of their own must apply to one of the guide dog schools throughout the country. The schools, which are typically nonprofit and tax-exempt, are often able to provide the dogs at no cost to the handler, thanks to generous private donations and charitable giving.

Most schools require the handler to have basic orientation and mobility skills and be able to care for and work with a dog. Applicants are often interviewed and typically put on a waiting list ranging from a few months to a year or more.

Training the dogs

Guide dog schools generally breed their own dogs, usually Labrador or golden retrievers, Lab/golden crosses and, in some cases, German shepherds, to ensure dogs don’t suffer from genetic disorders. They also want dogs with a suitable temperament, going with those who are friendly, eager to please and not easily distracted.

Volunteer puppy-raisers usually take the dogs into their homes at about 8 weeks of age and provide socialization and obedience training until the dogs are about a year-and-a-half old. The dogs are then returned to the schools, where they undergo four to six months of intensive guide dog training.

Matching the dog to the handler

The dogs not only work with the handler, they live with them 24/7, so the schools make every effort to find a suitable match. They evaluate everything about the owner, from lifestyle and energy level to walking pace, from the amount of travel required for their job to whether they live in a noisy, fast-paced city or in a rural area. Then they find the right dog for that particular person.

Handlers meet their dogs when they come to the school for a two- to four-week training session. Even then, dogs may be switched to fine-tune the match. Once at home, handlers are expected to keep training the dogs on a regular basis so they don’t lose their skills. Guide dog careers typically span about eight years, after which they may retire and live out the rest of their lives with their handlers or with another adoptive family, either of which will spoil them with affection for a job well done.

Simple Living: Life Lessons From Your Pets

Posted on April 21, 2020 - 6:38 pm by
Living simply with pets

Ah, the carefree life of a dog or cat. Naps in a sliver of sunlight. Meals served to you without having to lift a paw. Tummy rubs. No stressful job, unhappy relationship or unpaid bills. What’s not to love?

If only your life could be less complicated. Well, maybe it can be! If we take a few cues from our best four-legged friends, we’d be surprised at what we can learn about living simply. Here are a few behaviors we can adopt to help create a healthier, more relaxing lifestyle.

Unplug. Pets get along just fine without digital devices. Turn off your smartphone. Back away from your laptop. And lock up your remote.  Devote time each day to an analog activity — like journaling, woodworking, photography or swimming — and experience the bliss of doing something you love without constant interruptions.

Play outside. Escape the couch, open the door and fill your lungs with fresh air. Saunter around the neighborhood or go to a nearby park (your pet would be happy to accompany you). Take up running, biking or any other activity that gets your body moving outside on a regular basis.

Wag more. Show people they make you happy. Welcome family members home with a hug at the door. Chances are, they’ll return the favor when you come home, too.

Minimize. Your pet doesn’t need a million different toys and neither do you. Purge and declutter your house. Choose only the things that are most important or useful to you and get rid of everything else.

Walk. Pets just don’t understand the concept (or need for) cars. The next time you need to run a short errand, leave the car keys behind. Stroll to the nearby hardware store or coffee shop. And like your pet, be open to meeting new friends along the way.

Practice clean eating. Simplify your eating. Savor whole, natural and real foods that aren’t processed or refined. Better yet, buy locally where you can be more informed about the way your food is raised. Many pet owners are now doing the same for their dogs and cats with limited ingredient diets.

One thing at a time. Have you ever witnessed your cat totally engrossed with the bird feeder outside the window? Or the way your dog gnaws on a toy for an entire hour? Their satisfaction may come, in part, from the fact that they’re not multitasking. (A good resolution to make yourself.)

Roll in the snow (or grass, or dirt or whatever you prefer). Stretch out in the yard and watch the birds flitting through the trees. Make a snow angel.

Explore your sense of smell. Close your eyes and really appreciate the scent of fresh laundry, pine needles, dark coffee or popovers baking in the oven.

Snuggle. And of course, as your dog or cat would tell you, there’s nothing better than cuddling up with someone you love.

Does a Working Dog Need Carbs?

Posted on April 16, 2020 - 6:14 pm by
A German shepherd sitting on rocks near a beach.

Is your dog considered a “high-energy” dog? Is he or she getting the energy they need from the food they consume? While some pet parents believe that a high-protein, moderate- to high-fat, low-carbohydrate diet is ideal for all working and sporting dogs, that’s not always the case.

If you have a canine athlete or service dog, it’s important to carefully consider their energy needs when selecting their food. Dogs who work hard for long periods of time will likely benefit from that high-protein, moderate- to high-fat, low-carbohydrate food that provides energy from fat sources. However, if your hard-driving pup is more of the “short-burst” variety, like service dogs or those who compete in sprinting or activities that include medium intensity for 30 minutes or less at a time, a balanced diet that provides moderate amounts of protein, fat and carbohydrates may offer more of what they need.

Nutritional needs vary from job to job

Fat, carbohydrates and protein provide the energy that your dog needs, whether he or she is tracking a lost individual, herding sheep, sniffing out digital crimes, or working hard on another type of job. The canine body’s preferred energy source — dietary fat or carbohydrate — depends on the type of activity being performed. Yet even hard working dogs benefit from carbohydrates in their food.

Your dog’s breed, age, gender and reproductive status, as well as the type of activities performed, determine whether a particular energy-dense performance food supplies the right nutrients. The characteristics of the food itself play a role, too.

While the nutritional requirements vary widely and are determined by the duration and intensity of activity performed, the type, duration and intensity of physical activity also influences which ratio of protein, fat and carbohydrates will benefit your dog. Some active dogs will benefit from a diet designed specifically for athletic canines. Others can be well-maintained on a high-quality adult maintenance dog food.

Fat and carbohydrates are preferred by hard working muscles

To appreciate how dietary carbohydrates add value to working and sporting dog nutrition and performance, it helps to know more about this nutrient category and its various roles in the body.

Carbohydrates are used for energy, including energy for exercise, or “work.” While certain amino acids from protein can be converted to energy during exercise, fat and carbohydrates are actually the preferred energy sources for working dog muscles.

Fat, in the form of free fatty acids, is the preferred fuel for muscles when dogs perform low-intensity aerobic (requiring oxygen) exercise, which is the activity type associated with endurance activities like search-and-rescue missions, sled pulling and hunting. In fact, dogs get approximately 70 percent to 90 percent of their energy for endurance-type work from fat metabolism. Although only a small amount of energy is obtained from carbs, some glycogen metabolism is always necessary for ongoing free fatty acid metabolism during aerobic activities.

As exercise intensity increases, as it does during sprinting, working canine muscles shift to more anaerobic (without oxygen) metabolism and draw on muscle and liver glycogen stores for energy. A dog’s body uses dietary carbohydrates to help maintain and replenish glycogen stores.

Although dogs don’t have a dietary requirement for carbohydrates, they do have a metabolic requirement for glucose. One of the simplest carbohydrates, glucose is the carbohydrate form that circulates in blood and is the primary carbohydrate used by the body’s cells for energy. In fact, a constant supply of glucose is necessary for the central nervous system to work properly.

Glucose is used during aerobic and anaerobic metabolism. What glucose isn’t used immediately for energy can be stored in the liver and muscles as glycogen. It can also be converted to and stored as fat. When blood glucose levels are low, glycogen in the liver and muscle can be used to supply fuel to cells. And glycogen present in heart muscle provides a valuable emergency source of energy for the heart.

When adequate carbohydrates are provided through food, protein remains available to provide indispensable (essential) amino acids, repair and build tissues, and support a healthy immune system rather than being used for energy. Although dogs can use certain amino acids to produce energy, the process is less efficient than using dietary carbohydrates because the body needs to process and remove nitrogen waste after breaking down amino acids.

Complex carbohydrates contribute dietary fiber that supports healthy gastrointestinal tract functions. Dietary fiber isn’t considered an essential requirement for dogs, but it does encourage growth of beneficial bacteria in the colon, help promote regular bowel movements and regulate colon pH. Bacteria in the large intestine (colon) are able to break down certain types of fiber even if dogs don’t directly digest dietary fiber. Fiber fermentation produces short-chain fatty acids that are an important energy source for the cells lining the gastrointestinal tract.

Ancient grains provide carbohydrates

The chief carbohydrate source found in most commercial pet foods is starch, the energy storage form used by plants. Ancient grains such as sorghum, barley, quinoa and millet, along with grains such as rice (brown and white), corn and wheat, are ingredients used in pet food to provide carbohydrates in the form of digestible starch.

These same ingredients also contribute indispensable amino acids, essential fatty acids, minerals and vitamins to pet foods.

Questions? Ask your veterinarian

As always, any time you have questions about your performance dog’s nutrition, talk with your veterinarian, who can not only evaluate your dog’s body condition but determine how much energy (calories) your dog should be consuming daily.

It’s No Puzzle: Pets Love Working for Their Food

Posted on April 14, 2020 - 6:39 am by
German Shepherd sitting next to purple food toy

If we could be reincarnated, many of us would choose to return as a dog or cat. Why not? Snoozing on the couch all day…no nine-to-five job…regular belly rubs…no worries about where your next meal is coming from…what’s not to like?

But this “idyllic” life is a far cry from that of our pets’ wild ancestors, who usually spent the greater part of each day stalking, chasing and capturing their meals. By serving our pets a meal twice a day, we’re actually depriving them the thrill of the hunt.

This can make life very (yawn) boring. And a bored pet can become a stressed and destructive pet. In fact, this couch-potato life has no doubt contributed to an uptick in pet obesity and associated medical issues such as diabetes and arthritis. Boredom also contributes to stress, which can lead to unwanted behaviors such as excessive attention seeking and in cats, over-grooming and accidents outside the litter box.

One solution? Food puzzles.

Put Minds and Bodies Back to Work

As it turns out, most of our pets would rather have a job — working for food — because they have a natural instinct to forage for their meals. Food puzzles challenge their minds and provide an outlet to work off pent-up energy in a healthy way.

Essentially a toy filled with food or treats, food puzzles typically feature holes that dispense food when the pet manipulates it.  Some are mobile, often shaped like a ball or tube that releases kibble as it’s rolled. Others are immobile and include sliding doors or channels where food can be fished out with a paw or tongue.

The puzzles are often adjustable, so as your pet masters the toy, you can reduce the size or numbers of openings to increase the challenge and keep your pet interested. While you’ll find a wide range of food puzzles online or at pet stores, you can also make your own. For example, just cut a few holes in an empty water bottle, fill it with kibble, replace the cap and let your pet have fun with it (under your supervision, of course).

The Many Benefits of Food Puzzles

While a food puzzle isn’t the entire cure for bored pets, it can help by providing a way to stimulate their minds, prolong meals and boost activity.

According to a recent study in cats, food puzzles, combined with behavior modification, provided numerous benefits, including weight loss, a reduction in attention-getting behavior, an end to accidents outside the litter box, as well as a decrease in aggression, fear and anxiety. Food puzzles have also been shown to reduce some behavior problems in dogs.

Start Slow, Be Patient

Think of food puzzles as a different delivery method for your pet’s meals rather than a way to provide additional treats. Start by placing a portion of your dog or cat’s daily food allotment in the food puzzle. As your pet learns to use the puzzle, gradually increase the amount of food dispensed until you no longer need the bowl.

At first, try introducing food puzzles around normal meal times, when your pet is more likely to be hungry. You’ll want to make it as easy as possible for your pet to obtain food from the puzzle so it’s a rewarding experience.

Use a puzzle with transparent or translucent sides so the pet can see and hear the kibble rattling inside. Sprinkle a little food around the puzzle to entice them to explore it.

If your pet doesn’t respond to one type of puzzle, try a different shape, texture or color (some pets just have different preferences). In the beginning, you may need to lure your pet with an especially delectable treat in the puzzle, and then gradually mix in food until that’s all that’s dispensed.

If you have multiple pets, isolate them with the puzzles so they can explore the toys without distraction and to prevent the dominant pet from getting all the food.

As your pet masters the food puzzle, gradually increase the challenge or switch to a different puzzle to keep them motivated. It’s a fun way to promote pet health and nutrition while forging an even stronger bond with your dog or cat.

Why Do Dogs Bite?

Posted on April 9, 2020 - 3:00 pm by
A close-up of a dog sniffing a human hand.

If you’re a dog parent, you’ve probably felt the imprint of canine teeth on your skin — whether it’s the sharp pinch of puppy teeth or an inadvertent nip during a game of fetch. But it’s the more dangerous bites, the ones that cause serious injury, bacterial infections or transmit diseases, that are of most concern.

According to the CDC, 1 out of 5 people bitten by dogs need medical attention. Sadly, many of these bites didn’t have to happen. So we’re sharing tips on how to know when a dog might bite, how to avoid being bitten and how to curb biting behavior in puppies.

Why Do Dogs Bite?

First, it’s important to know that any dog can bite — no matter what breed, age, size or usual temperament. Biting is a normal dog behavior. Even the most mild-mannered dog, if pushed to the edge, will bite. Most bites typically occur in the home with the family dog. Many dogs, especially those who aren’t well socialized, may bite if they feel fearful or threatened. Sneaking up on a sleeping dog and startling them may elicit a bite. And many dogs will bite if they’re in pain or simply don’t feel well.

Some dogs, understandably, are uncomfortable when a small child (or anyone) grabs their ears, tug on their paws or yank at their hair or tails. People who invade the dog’s personal space, especially when the dog is eating, can also be at risk of a bite. Dogs can become protective of their food, toys or other things they find valuable.

Why Is My Dog Nibbling Me?

From play-biting to grooming you, there are a variety of reasons why your dog nibbles on you. If you have a young puppy, they may be teething; and gently gnawing on you helps relieve their discomfort. Puppies also use their mouths to explore their world, which includes you. Adult dog nipping can happen when they’re excited to play with you or they’re trying to get your attention. They may also be showing you some love by grooming you: “Just checking you don’t have fleas.”

How to Train Your Puppy Not to Bite

Little puppy bites or letting your pup mouth your hand may not bother you, but when you think about them doing the same thing as an adult dog, that’s a good reason to curb this puppy behavior now. The first step is socialization. Letting your puppy experience many different situations, environments and people as a pup will help reduce the chances of them becoming fearful or feeling threatened as an adult.

Puppy bite inhibition is a natural behavior that lets pups play with other dogs without causing injuries (most of the time). If they bite hard, the other puppies will yelp and play will stop for a moment. Puppies learn that if they want play to continue, they need to mouth and bite their playmates gently. You want to make sure they learn bite inhibition behavior for people, too.

One technique you can try to stop puppy biting is mimicking what puppies do. If your puppy bites or mouths you, yelp and stop playing. Wait a few moments, then continue playing again. If that doesn’t work, you can also try directing their attention away from you with a chew toy or tug toy. If they’re nipping because they’re overly excited, try putting them in a safe space to calm down and then initiate play again when they’re calm.

Why Does My Dog Bite Me Playfully?

This is a behavior that dogs learn as puppies. Pups that have learned bite inhibition know that they can playfully bite their littermates without causing them injury (most of the time). Generally, you can tell if a dog is play-biting by looking at their body language. Dogs playing will have a relaxed or playful stance, whereas an aggressive dog will have tensed muscles and may be exposing their teeth.

How to Get Your Dog to Stop Biting

Teaching your adult dog that biting — even play biting — is not acceptable uses techniques similar to those used for puppies. Stop playing and ignore them for a short period of time so they understand that biting behavior ends playtime. If your dog bites when they’re excited, have a toy ready so you can redirect their playful energy toward the toy. You should avoid roughhousing or using your hands around their head to initiate play as this can encourage biting behavior. Don’t use physical punishment for biting, as this can lead to fear and aggression, which can result in more than just a nip.

Avoid Aggressive Bites by Understanding Canine Body Language

Most dogs will try to communicate that they are uncomfortable with a situation before resorting to biting. While a growl often serves as a warning that a dog may be on the verge of biting, knowing canine body language can be helpful, too. Fearful dogs will often crouch near the ground, tuck their tails between their legs or roll on their backs, exposing their bellies to show they’re submissive. These dogs will often yawn and lick their lips repeatedly.

Aggressive bites, on the other hand, typically come from a dog who is standing tall and firm with their tail held high, and possibly the hair bristling down their spine. Aggressive dogs may show more of the whites of the eyes, bare their teeth and snap at the air.

If you notice your dog displaying these behaviors, remove them from the situation and give them plenty of space. Don’t punish them for showing those behaviors — that’s your cue that something is wrong. Punishing your dog may result in them going straight to biting next time.

Follow Proper Dog Etiquette to Avoid Bites

Many dog bites in children can be avoided simply by never leaving young children unsupervised with a dog — even the family dog. Beyond that, it’s important to teach children basic respect for all dogs. That means leaving dogs alone if they’re eating, playing with a toy or sleeping.

People of all ages should always ask the owner for permission before petting a strange dog, then let the dog approach and sniff them first. Other common rules for avoiding dog bites include:

  • Don’t roughhouse with dogs or tease them with your hands.
  • Never run from a dog or scream while running.
  • If a loose dog approaches, stand very still, stay calm and firmly command them to “sit” or “stay.”
  • When faced with a potentially aggressive dog, put an object, like a bicycle or garbage can, between you and the dog.
  • Avoid staring directly into a dog’s eyes, which they may interpret as threatening.
  • If you fall down near a dog, curl up into a ball and lock your fingers over your ears and the back of your neck.
  • Do not kick or hit an approaching dog.
  • Do not approach dogs that are behind a fence or in a yard on a chain.
  • Never try to break up a dog fight with your hands or other body parts — make loud noises or spray water from a hose.

By giving strange dogs space and treating family dogs with respect, hopefully, you and your family members can avoid dog bites. If you’re concerned about your dog’s biting behavior, ask for professional help from either your veterinarian, a certified applied animal behaviorist or a certified professional dog trainer.

8 Tips for Do-It-Yourself Home Pet Grooming

Posted on April 7, 2020 - 9:45 am by
Taste of the Wild

Some pets never learn. Despite your best efforts, they’ll wallow in every mud puddle, roll on roadkill and dart after skunks time and time again. If you can’t afford a regular grooming appointment, you’ll need to master the dog bath (or the cat bath, as the case may be). And since pets can’t use emery boards, it pays to brush up on your pet nail clipping skills, too. Here are some tips to help with at-home grooming.

  1. Stay calm and bring on the treats. The goal is to make grooming a positive, stress-free experience for both you and your pet. Start with short sessions and reward your pet for staying calm with praise or high-value treats. To help your dog or cat feel relaxed, try to restrain them as little as possible. You may have to stop and try again the next day if your pet shows signs of discomfort or stress.
  2. Brush your pet regularly. Just a few minutes of brushing helps remove dirt, excess hair, tangles and mats while distributing oils that help keep the skin and coat healthy. Some pets may need more brushing than others, especially those with long hair and double-coated pets that “blow coat,” or shed their undercoats seasonally. Regular brushing means there’s less hair to vacuum, fewer lint rollers needed for your wardrobe and less chance of stepping on a soggy hairball in your bare feet.
  3. Stay on top of hair mats. Matted hair can pull at the skin, causing pain and irritation. Mats can occur more often in older, arthritic pets who can no longer stretch to groom hard-to-reach places. Matted hair also provides less insulation, making it harder for pets to stay warm in the colder months.When removing mats, avoid using scissors because it can be easy to accidentally cut your pet’s skin. If the mats are small, hold the hair between the skin and mat to prevent pulling at the skin. With a metal comb, start on the outside of the mat and gently pick it apart, working your way to the center. For larger mats, leave it to your groomer or veterinarian (if your pet needs sedation).
  4. Schedule regular baths. Some pets need baths more often than others. Cats, for the most part, are usually pretty good at preening themselves. But other pets, especially those with skin problems, may benefit from regular baths.
  5. Choose a shampoo made for pets. Human shampoo has a different pH than dog and cat skin requires, but pet shampoos are designed to be a perfect match. If your pet has a greasy coat, is extremely itchy or has other skin conditions, your veterinarian may recommend a therapeutic shampoo that can help.
  6. Don’t go for the tomato juice when skunked. A more effective alternative for that skunk-scented pet is to bathe your pet in a mixture of 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, ¼ cup baking soda and 1 teaspoon mild dishwashing soap.
  7. Trim nails regularly. Regular walks on cement roads and sidewalks can help wear down your dog’s nails. And scratching posts can help your cat remove the dead outer sheath on their claws. But most pets will need your help with their nails at some point. Without regular trimming, cat nails can curl back and pierce the paw pads, which can be painful and lead to infection. And when you can hear your dog’s nails clicking on the hardwood floor, it’s time for a nail trim. Start by handling each paw and rewarding your pet with treats or praise when they remain calm. Then begin to touch the paw with the nail trimmer and follow with a reward. Work you way up to trimming a single nail. Then gradually trim more nails as your pet allows. Although you can trim nails with a Dremel, a clipper makes less noise and is usually faster.
  8. Avoid the quick. You’ll want to avoid cutting the quick, the pink area visible in the middle of white nails that contains nerves and blood vessels. If your pet has dark nails, trim the very tip of each nail and continue making small cuts until you see a black dot in the center of the nail. That’s your cue that you’re nearing the quick. If you accidentally cut the quick and the nail starts bleeding, pat the area with styptic powder or cornstarch. Your veterinarian will be happy to demonstrate proper nail trimming technique for you.Of course, if your pet needs a special cut or is stressed by at-home grooming, it may be better to leave it to a professional groomer.

Pet Diet Mistakes: 8 No-Nos When Feeding Your Pet

Posted on April 2, 2020 - 3:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild

For pets and their owners, the universal language of love is often spoken with food. A scrambled egg on top of kibble. A bite of your turkey sandwich. These are all ways we tell our pets we love them. And our pets dance on the kitchen floor to show us their love in return.

Harmless fun, right? Well, not always. See if you’re making any of these pet feeding mistakes.

The bottomless bowl. Most pets aren’t known for having self-control. If you leave food out all day, every day, it can lead to overweight pets, although cats are better at self-regulating than dogs. Pets will often eat out of boredom, even if they’re not really hungry. And it’s not just a matter of growing too fat for their collars — obesity can lead to diabetes, joint damage, heart disease and other health problems in pets.

The homemade diet. It sounds so wholesome, doesn’t it? But unless it’s been formulated by a board-certified veterinary nutritionist, a home-cooked diet can lack the right balance of protein, energy, vitamins and minerals for your pet. And pets with special nutritional needs, such as pregnant or nursing animals, puppies or kittens can develop serious health problems if they’re not fed a nutritionally balanced diet for their life stage.

The vegetarian diet. Cats are obligate carnivores, which means they need dietary meat to live. Dogs are able to produce certain amino acids such as taurine and arginine, some of the building blocks of protein, and therefore can be healthy with a meat-free diet. Cats, however, lack the enzymes to do so and need a meat source in their diets to obtain these required nutrients. That said, cats shouldn’t be fed a diet of meat alone. They also need carbohydrates and other nutritional ingredients for a balanced diet.

The dairy fallacy. Everyone knows cats love nothing better than to lick a bowl of cream, right? Not exactly. Most cats are lactose intolerant and dairy products can actually lead to vomiting and diarrhea.

The “I can’t resist those brown eyes” diet. Who can blame you? But feeding your pet table scraps and treats throughout the day can lead to digestive problems, weight gain and begging, which started the cycle in the first place. Remember: what’s on your plate isn’t always safe for your pet. Foods like grapes, raisins, chocolate and onions can be toxic for pets. If you really want to give human food as treats, opt for safe, low-calorie options such as raw apples or carrots. Treats should also account for no more than 10 percent of pet’s total daily calorie intake so you can make sure they get the full nutrition from their regular food.

The real-bone treat. Real bones from the butcher can harbor bacteria such as Salmonella that can sicken pets and people. Bones are also often harder than your dog’s teeth, and chewing on them can result in tooth fractures. Splintered bones, if swallowed, can cause damage to the digestive system that requires emergency surgery.

The follow-the-label diet. Just like people, adult pets have different activity and metabolism levels. That’s why the feeding recommendations on food packages could be too much, or too little, for some pets. It’s best to consult your veterinarian about the right food and amount for your pet. You can also check out the Pet Nutrition Alliance calorie calculator to determine exact calorie counts for your pets. Then, watch for changes in your pet’s body condition score so you can tell if your dog or cat needs to back away from the food bowl.

The single bowl approach. Having multiple pets share one food bowl is asking for trouble. Some pets may be food aggressive, resulting in that pet hogging all the food while the other one is forced into a hunger strike. Plus, changes in appetite can be a sign of a health problem, so it’s important for you to know just how much each of your pets is eating.

If you have any questions about your pet’s diet, always ask your veterinarian. They can help determine the right food — and the right amount — to keep your pet healthy and happy.

Pet Poison Safety Tips: Is Your Home Really Poison-Proof?

Posted on March 12, 2020 - 3:00 pm by
A small white dog sitting behind grapes, chocolate and other common foods that may be poisonous to your pet.

Pets have a way of getting into things they shouldn’t. The chocolate bar that fell between the sofa cushions. The bottle of aspirin you left on the kitchen table. Or that slug bait on the garage floor. Since next week is Poison Prevention Week, we thought everyone could use a few safety tips on how to poison-proof your house.

Here are some of the top toxins that pets can typically find around the house:

  • Houseplants — While households with cats should avoid many types of lilies, other plants, such as sago palms and dieffenbachia, can be problematic for pets, too. But don’t worry if you’re really into houseplants. There are plenty that are generally safe for pets. These include spider plants, Boston ferns, African violets, Christmas cacti, Swedish ivy, lipstick plants, moth orchids and some succulents such as Haworthia, Peperomia and burro’s tail.
  • Human over-the-counter medications — Drug toxicity is a top claim at Nationwide Pet Insurance because people intentionally give their pets medications intended for humans. Just because some over-the-counter drugs like pain relievers, cold medications and herbal supplements don’t need a prescription doesn’t mean they’re OK for pets. Play it safe: Never give your dog or cat a human medication unless you have been directed to do so by your veterinarian.
  • Human and pet prescription medications — Think you have trouble getting into those child-proof bottles? Some pets can make quick work of them, getting into potentially dangerous drugs like ADHD medications, antidepressants, and heart medications. Some prescription medications for pets often contain meat flavoring, which may entice pets to down a month’s worth of doses at once.
  • People food — You’re probably well aware that some foods, such as grapes, chocolate and onions, can be dangerous for pets. But never forget that a determined pet can knock over the garbage and swallow chicken bones, coffee grounds, wrappers, moldy food and items that may be toxic, lead to pancreatitis, or require emergency surgery to remove them.
  • All things that require batteries — Most dog owners have probably had to replace a TV remote or two. But leaving any battery-operated devices, such as toys and smartphones, lying around can lead to a trip to the emergency clinic with your pet. And power cords, while not toxic, can lead to electric shock or worse if your pet chews on them. Keep all these items out of your pet’s reach.
  • Medical or recreational marijuana — Today’s marijuana often contains significantly more THC than in years past. Dogs and cats can become poisoned by exposure to marijuana smoke as well as eating pot plants or cookies, brownies or candies made with this ingredient.

That’s just a short list of what your dog or cat might find in your house.  Want more details? Here’s a room-by-room checklist of possible pet toxins.

Of course, if you suspect that your pet may have gotten into a toxin, call your veterinarian or the Pet Poison Helpline at (855) 764-7661 immediately.

11 Spring Pet Safety Tips You Need to Know

Posted on March 5, 2020 - 4:00 pm by
Taste of the Wild

Depending on where you live, the tulips and daffodils may already be pushing up from the earth. You might spot robins feathering nests or a canopy of green buds unfurling overhead, and soon you’ll sleep with the windows cranked open. Ever notice how spring has a way of making the world feel fresh-scrubbed and alive?

No doubt, your pet is as eager to spend time outside as you are. But before you venture out, there are some things you should do to make sure your pet is safe and healthy this season. Here’s a checklist to help you on your way:

  • Initiate heartworm prevention — If your pet isn’t already on year-round heartworm prevention, now’s the time to make sure your dog or cat is protected. The parasite is transmitted by mosquitos, and infection is potentially fatal. Mosquitos can sneak indoors, so even indoor-only cats are at risk. (In one study, approximately one-third of the indoor-only cats tested were positive for heartworm infection.) Treatment can be risky and expensive for dogs, and there’s no effective treatment for cats. So prevention is the best approach.
  • Banish fleas and ticks — As the temperature rises, these freeloading parasites start actively looking for picnic spots on your pets. Fleas can make pets itch and twitch, and some pets are so allergic to flea saliva that a single bite can cause severe reactions. Once they’re in your house, fleas can be extremely difficult to eliminate. And ticks can cause serious tick-borne diseases. Ask your veterinarian to recommend an effective flea and tick preventive for your pets.
  • Double-check your pet’s identification tags — As the weather warms and more time is spent outdoors, there are more opportunities for pets to make a break for freedom. Make sure your pet’s ID tags are legible and contain all your current contact information. If your pet is microchipped, call the microchip company to make sure they have your most current contact information on file.
  • Watch for thawing ice — That same lake your dog raced across when the ice was two feet thick is becoming less safe by the minute. Keep pets on a leash and off the lakes, ponds and streams where they could break through thinning ice.
  • Retire that winter coat — Many pets start shedding their winter coats about now. Time to bring out your best inner groomer and help your dog or cat unload all that extra fur. If your pet has matted hair, let the professional groomers get the tangles out. A little brushing now can save a lot of time digging hair out of the vacuum cleaner later.
  • Freshen up pet beds and bowls — There’s nothing like sleeping in sheets that have just air-dried on the line outdoors. Chances are, your pet can appreciate fresh bedding, too. Now’s the time to wash those pet beds, bowls, toys and sweaters.
  • Make sure vaccines are current — Whether your dog is hobnobbing with other pups at the dog park or your cat is sunning itself on the outdoor catio, exposure to other pets can put them at risk for infectious diseases. Play it safe and update any vaccines that may have expired.
  • Prepare for allergy season — Does your dog scratch itself raw when the pollen swirls in the air? Check with your veterinarian to make sure you have allergy medications at the ready.
  • Clean up the yard — Pick up last autumn’s sticks and acorns that your pet could chew or swallow, and clear away leaf litter where ticks like to hide. Check your gardening supplies to make sure any lawn fertilizers, mulch or pest control products that may be toxic are out of your pet’s reach.
  • Bring the calm before (and during) the storms — If your dog becomes unglued when the thunder rolls, talk to your veterinarian about medications that can help ease your dog’s fears. Setting up a “safe room” away from doors and windows where your dog can curl up with his or her favorite toys may also help.
  • Ease into exercise — Has your pet been as much of a couch potato as you have over the winter? Then start outdoor exercise slowly and gradually build up the intensity as your pet’s muscles and endurance get stronger.

An interior graphic detailing a safety checklist of spring pet safety tips.

Now that you and your pet are prepared for spring, let the outdoor frisbee tournament begin. The sun is shining, so there’s no time to waste: your best friend is waiting to play outside with you.

Dogs at Work: Ratter Dogs Win the Rat Race

Posted on February 27, 2020 - 4:51 pm by
A white terrier dog sniffing the grass outside in the sun.

At the American Kennel Club Earthdog competition, terriers and other small breeds race through tunnels in search of rats. No rats are harmed, the AKC is quick to point out, because the rats are in cages, safe from canine jaws. Dogs win by simply finding the rat and barking within an allotted time. The whole point is to let dogs compete in a sport they were bred for years ago: rat catching.

A history of chasing vermin

A few centuries ago in Europe, when rural living meant rodents inevitably lived in close company with humans, rats became the scourge of every farm for destroying food sources and spreading diseases such as the plague.

Rats have been an issue for humans for so long that they star in multiple tales and legends. In 1284, German lore has it that the Pied Piper of Hamelin lured the town’s rats to their death in a river, only to kidnap the town’s children when he wasn’t paid. Jack Black, a famous British rat catcher, is said to have kept rat-baiting competitions stocked with his catch at the end of the 19th century. Spectators made bets on how fast dogs (mostly terriers) could kill all the rats released into a pit.

Eventually, farmers learned that dogs, especially those of the terrier sort, eagerly picked up the idea of rat catching, earning them a permanent home on the farm. In the 1800s, ratters were sent down mine tunnels and patrolled cotton mills and inns at night, lightening the rodent load wherever they went. Terriers even worked in the World War I trenches, where rats were attracted to dead bodies and human waste. The dogs made quick work of the rat population and provided comfort to soldiers.

An instinct to hunt

Ratters tended to be terrier breeds, such as rat terriers (obviously), Jack Russell terriers, Norfolk terriers, Yorkshire terriers, Sealyham terriers and Cairn terriers. Other rodent-chasers included dachshunds, miniature schnauzers and German pinschers. To this day, many of these breeds are known for digging, barking and investigating any marauders that dare enter the yard.

If you have hamsters, bunnies or other small pets around the house, beware: ratting breeds can easily mistake them for prey if the creatures make quick movements in their vicinity.

Still on the job

Ratting dogs are still valued for their rodent-killing prowess. Just ask the members of the Ryder’s Alley Trencher-fed Society (R.A.T.S.), a group of dog owners who prowl New York City streets and alleys at night, ridding the city of small varmints. They usually bring a veterinary technician along, to help with any bites or scratches that may need attention. It’s great entertainment for the dogs, and their handlers feel like they’re helping the community.