Enrichment Tips to Keep Your Indoor Cat Happy

Taste of the Wild

Life may seem a lot easier for indoor cats than their outdoor counterparts. Indoor cats don’t have to lift a paw to receive tasty, nutritious meals. They can snuggle in a warm bed in the middle of a blizzard. And they never have to worry about dodging cars or ferocious animals.

But the truth is, indoor cats need to express a lot of the natural instincts and behaviors like hiding, hunting, scratching and scent marking that outdoor cats accomplish organically. When deprived of these outlets, indoor cats can become stressed, potentially leading to illness and unwanted behaviors.

As part of National Cat Health Month, we’re sharing indoor cat enrichment tips to help you make sure your indoor kitty is as happy and comfortable as possible.

Make your cat feel more at home

Understanding your cat’s needs can help you make small changes that will have a big impact on his or her well-being. Here are a few examples:

A private sanctuary — As the actress Greta Garbo famously quipped, “I want to be alone.” Cats seek private time, too. Cats cope with noisy workmen, overzealous children and other household pets by escaping to a place where they can hide and feel safe. Ideally, provide each cat with a quiet room where it can sleep without feeling vulnerable. If possible, include a bed or box for hiding, food and water bowls, toys and other resources your cat may need.

A bird’s eye view — Many cats prefer to survey their kingdom from above. Cat trees and perches that attach to the wall or windowsill offer the opportunity to climb and observe the world from a safe place. Even better, position the cat tree near a window where your feline can keep an eye on the bird feeder outside.

The right litter boxes — Cats can be particular about their litter box preferences. As a rule of thumb, there should be one litter box per cat in the household, plus one more. Boxes should be about one and a half times the length of the cat (excluding the tail). Cats generally prefer uncovered boxes with unscented, scoopable litter. Boxes should be placed in private but easily accessible locations. You should clean litter at least once a day, and wash the box with mild dish soap once a week.

Physical and mental stimulation — Although cats often like routine, monotony can cause stress and lead to illness and behaviors such as overgrooming. Take time each day to get your cat moving, whether it’s a game of fetch or a laser pointer chase. Some cats can even be trained to walk on a leash. Food puzzles can help stimulate your cat’s mind and make them work for each meal. Toys should be rotated on a regular basis to keep things fresh.

Something to scratch — Cats like to scratch to shed dried nail husks and sharpen their nails. But even declawed cats need to stretch and mark the area with pheromones from the scent glands in their paws. Providing vertical or horizontal scratching posts can provide cats with a suitable place to flex their paws.

An opportunity to hunt — Cats rarely tire of the thrill of the chase. Help your cat express their predatory instincts with toys that mimic the hunting experience. Wands with feathers and bells, toys that squeak or race across the floor all give your cat a chance to stalk and pounce. Finish the game with treat rewards to satisfy the experience of eating prey.

Personal space — In multiple-cat households, competition for resources such as the litter box, food or toys can cause anxiety. Make sure to distribute these items around the house so cats have an opportunity to enjoy them without another cat (or dog) pushing them out of the way.

By minimizing stress and helping your cat express its natural behaviors, you can strengthen the bond between you and your indoor feline companion.

Are Small Dogs More Prone to Dental Disease?

Taste of the Wild

Periodontal disease is the most common health condition in dogs. By two years of age, about 80 percent of dogs are estimated to have some form of it, and the risk for periodontal disease continues to grow with age. But evidence also shows that small and toy breed dogs like dachshunds and pugs are more likely to experience dental disease than larger dogs — and it may happen at an earlier age.

Periodontal disease can be painful and negatively impact your dog’s health. It starts when a sticky, bacteria-laden material called plaque forms on the tooth surface. Within about 48 hours, plaque hardens into tartar, which typically can’t be removed with a toothbrush. Bacteria can invade the gum tissue, causing inflammation and destruction of the tooth-supporting structures, leading to tooth loss. Bacteria can also enter the bloodstream and impact other organs such as the heart.

Since smaller dogs may be more at risk for dental disease, it’s a good idea for owners of small dogs to start dental care early and seek veterinary help if dogs exhibit signs such as bad breath, inflamed or bleeding gums, loose or discolored teeth, difficulty eating or nasal discharge.

Why small breeds?

No one is sure why, exactly, smaller dogs appear to be more prone to dental disease. But it’s generally believed that the more compact heads and jaws of smaller dogs can lead to overcrowding of the teeth, meaning there is less space between the teeth and more places where food can lodge and collect bacteria.

It’s common for small dogs to retain baby teeth, which is one potential cause of overcrowding. If baby teeth aren’t shed naturally, two teeth inevitably squeeze into the space meant for a single tooth. Retained baby teeth should be professionally removed to free up space.

Small brachycephalic breeds, or dogs with flattened faces, such as pugs, Boston terriers and Pekingese, are likely to have teeth crowding as well as bite abnormalities. Their abbreviated jaws require the same number of teeth to fit into an even smaller space, leading to tooth rotation and crowding. Bite abnormalities, such as an underbite, can result in tooth and gum tissue damage.

Help protect your small dog

The best way to help prevent dental disease is to start with a visit to your veterinarian. He or she can examine your dog’s mouth and advise whether a professional cleaning and exam is needed. The cleaning will remove tartar from the visible part of the tooth as well as under the gumline.

The doctor will be able to examine each tooth and look for pockets and other abnormalities. Dental X-rays can help determine if there’s trouble under the gums. If necessary, teeth may be extracted to relieve pain or create more space.

The veterinary staff can also show you how to brush your dog’s teeth. Removing plaque on a daily basis, before it hardens into tartar, can help maintain dental health and potentially extend the time between veterinary dental cleanings.

The key is to gradually accustom your dog to the procedure and provide lots of treats and praise. In the first few sessions, gently rub under your dog’s chin and touch the muzzle. Gradually work up to touching the lips and rubbing along the gums. Next, add a bit of pet toothpaste to the tip of your finger. Then gradually transition to a finger brush or small child’s toothbrush.

You can also find dental care products that support dental health, including dental diets, dental chews, water additives, oral gels and sprays. Just look for the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal of approval, which tells you that the products have been proven to reduce plaque and tartar.

Indoor Cats vs. Outdoor Cats: Which Is Right for You?

A long-haired cat walking through a front door from outside.

When adopting a cat, pet owners have a choice to make about where their cat is going to live. For some people there’s no question — they’ll be an indoor-only cat and that’s that. But some people may like their cat to have a hybrid lifestyle inside and out. To help you make the choice of what’s right for you and your cat, we’ve got the pros and cons of both lifestyles.

How Long Do Indoor Cats Live?

An indoor cat’s lifespan is typically around 10 to 15 years, which is significantly longer than the life expectancy of an outdoor cat (more on that later). This is mostly due to the safe environment that life indoors provides. Indoor cats are protected from inclement weather (e.g., rain, snow and temperature extremes), other cats and animals carrying diseases and parasites, and physical dangers like cars, predators and, unfortunately, cruel humans.

Are Indoor Cats Happy?

It’s likely a common question for cat owners — is my cat happy? Many cats thrive on an indoor lifestyle; others don’t. Indoor-only cats may be protected from the dangers lurking outside, but their confined life means they can be restricted in their ability to express natural and essential behaviors like stalking, catching prey, scratching and urine marking.

To keep indoor cats happy, it’s important that your indoor cat has the opportunity to express these behaviors and for you to — as much as possible — make the indoors as interesting and exciting as the outdoors. Some of the ways you can help enrich your cat’s lifestyle indoors include providing:

  • Scratching posts
  • A private sanctuary
  • Perches
  • Cat toys that provide physical and mental stimulation
  • Appropriate litter boxes
  • Toys that provide an opportunity to hunt

Keeping cats indoors does have a potential downside. Indoor cats are more likely to develop behavioral problems, which can put them at risk of being surrendered to animal shelters or euthanized. Providing indoor cats with enrichment activities and ensuring their needs are being met can help reduce behavioral problems.

How Long Do Outdoor Cats Live?

The lifespan of outdoor cats is typically less than 5 years. This decreased life expectancy is due to a variety of reasons, including a greater risk of injury from cars, dogs and wild animals, like coyotes, foxes, raccoons and birds of prey. Additionally, outdoor cats face increased exposure to serious diseases such as feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus from stray or feral cats who aren’t vaccinated. They also have increased exposure to diseases from other animals such as avian influenza A (H5N1, also called bird flu) which can be fatal to cats. Outdoor cats can also be exposed to poisons like antifreeze and rodenticides.

Cats are territorial, so if they come across a stray cat or other free-roaming cats from the neighborhood, territorial fighting can occur. This can result in severe injuries, infections from bite wounds and disease transmission. Fraternizing with free-roaming community cats can also increase the risk of your cat coming home with fleas, ticks, ringworm or ear mites — some of which can be a risk to the health of you and your family, too. And of course, if you have a female cat that isn’t spayed, there’s a chance of unexpected kittens.

If you’re considering adopting a cat that has spent most or all of its life outside, the good news is that with patience and slow adjustments, many outdoor cats can become indoor cats.

What Do Outdoor Cats Eat?

Cats are carnivores (meat eaters) that excel at hunting. So don’t be surprised if your outdoor-roaming cat proudly presents you with a dead mouse or bird as a “gift,” or if you find them devouring said gift on the kitchen floor. If you allow your cat to go outside but don’t like the idea of them hunting, you can try adding a bell to their collar to help announce their presence before they pounce — although this isn’t always effective. Keeping them well-fed with cat food may also help reduce their hunting urge, but remember that hunting is a natural part of a cat’s behavior.

Do Cats Need to Go Outside?

Ultimately, it’s your choice. A cat owner’s decision on whether their cat should live inside or outside depends on the cat’s health and personality and whether the cat owner can provide an interesting indoor environment or a safe outdoor environment.

If you would like to provide your cat with a hybrid lifestyle, consider building or buying an outdoor cat house, cat run or catio that keeps them safe while enjoying the outdoors. It’s also a good idea to take pets inside at nighttime so they are protected from wildlife or other nighttime hazards.

Good Neighbors: 9 Dog Breeds That Are Perfect for Apartment Living

Taste of the Wild

Who says you need a fenced-in yard before you can adopt a dog? There are plenty of dogs in apartments that adore the lifestyle as much as you do. All they need is a short walk and plenty of time to loll on the couch with you.

But not every dog breed will feel at home in a high-rise. Generally, you’ll want a breed with an easygoing personality and low to moderate exercise needs. Out of consideration for your neighbors, look for breeds that aren’t excessive barkers and who can greet tenants in the hallways and elevators with courtesy and a friendly tail wag.

Surprisingly, size is not always a determining factor, as long as the space allows and your building doesn’t have particular breed or size restrictions.  It’s a good idea to check to see if there are extra fees for pets (such as pet deposits) and if there’s a limit to how many pets you can have.

Here are just a few of the dog breeds that can fit happily into apartments.

Boston Terrier

Averaging around 15 pounds, Boston terriers are both adaptable and affectionate. They’re generally happy to cuddle with children and quick to make friends with neighbors and even cats. They don’t shed much, making it easy to keep your space tidy. Bostons are typically quiet, except when it comes to sleeping: They can be boisterous snorers.

Bichon Frisé

With a French name that means “curly coated,” bichons don’t shed much, which means less dander for those prone to allergies. While they don’t require a lot of exercise, they are known for the “bichon blitz,” a wild, full-speed race in which they lap the living room several times, then collapse into your comforter for a snooze. A word to the wise: bichons often need professional grooming and can be a challenge to housetrain.

Shiba Inu

The most popular companion dog in Japan, shiba inus rarely bark. Averaging 25 pounds or less, these independent dogs can be the perfect size for apartments. Available in several coat colors, such as sesame, cream, or black and tan, those with red coats are often likened to a fox. These adorable dogs typically blow coat twice a year and are escape artists, so be careful opening your apartment door.

Greyhound

These gentle dogs are often known as 45-mile-per-hour couch potatoes because after a high-speed dash around the dog park, they’re happy to couch surf with you while you binge Netflix. They’re generally quiet, affectionate and easy to groom. Even retired racers can be satisfied with a short walk and a long nap. Greyhound puppies, however, typically need quite a bit of exercise, so consider adopting an adult for your apartment.

Pekingese

Small in stature, the Pekingese is big on personality. These dogs like to rule the household, as they did in Chinese palaces long ago. They will also guard your apartment fiercely but aren’t overly yappy to disturb the neighbors. Pekingese get along well with children if they’re brought up with them, but otherwise prefer adult company.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

These toy dogs will follow their owners everywhere until they can use those big, brown eyes to earn a seat in your lap. They’re big on snuggling but prefer not to make a lot of noise. Always walk your Cavalier on a leash because they’re apt to chase after birds and squirrels without warning.

French Bulldog

Frenchies require very little exercise, and are the perfect match for who live in confined spaces. They love almost everyone they meet and are likely to flirt with your neighbors in the hallways. Frenchies can be destructive with their toys, so make sure not to give them anything that can be chewed up and accidentally swallowed.

Havanese

The national dog of Cuba, Havanese generally get along with other dogs, cats and children. Typically happy with a springy gait, these dogs are at their best in the company of their owners — consider another breed if you can’t spend much time at home. With low exercise requirements, the Havanese sheds very little and is a cheerful and loving addition to any apartment.

Pug

Beneath the wrinkled brow and worried expression beats the heart of a truly devoted companion. Eager to please, pugs are good sports about being dressed in embarrassing costumes, from dinosaurs to butterflies. They require little grooming or exercise, but you might need to have a vacuum at hand for shedding. If you need a full night’s sleep, consider sound cancellation headphones because pugs have a propensity for snoring.

And don’t forget about mixed breed dogs — there are plenty of good-natured mutts that also make perfect apartment roommates.

Dogs at Work: Mall Security Dogs

A dog on a leash sitting on the floor in a store.

If your idea of shopping center security is the bumbling, Segway-riding Paul Blart of the movie Mall Cop, think again. Many malls now have sophisticated, integrated security plans, which may include trained dogs and handlers.

Depending on the needs of the mall, security dogs may simply provide surveillance and crowd control, so shoppers and retailers can feel safe. Trained dogs add an extra visual and psychological deterrent against trouble.

But some malls also train dogs to put their keen sense of smell to work, detecting substances such as explosives, drugs and firearms. It’s all in a day’s work for mall security dogs.

Not a job for toy poodles

Mall security dogs not only have to look intimidating, they need to have the right temperament and a strong drive to guard, bark or attack on command. That’s why trainers typically rely on the intelligent and alert dogs of the working group, such as German shepherds, Belgian Malinois, Dutch shepherds, Dobermans and Rottweilers.

Training starts early

The foundation of any security-dog training program is socialization and obedience training as puppies. Socialization is necessary to help dogs feel comfortable around people, other dogs and crowds. And basic obedience training is a must before moving on to advanced guard training with controlled aggression.

Dogs are usually paired with a handler for guard training. The dog will learn to recognize a threat and attack on command, but equally important, they need to learn how to let go on command and transition from an aggressive to a calm demeanor.

Most detection training is done by teaching the dog to recognize and track a particular scent. Each time the dog successfully identifies the item, they are given positive reinforcement in the form of praise and treats or toys. But training doesn’t stop once the dog and handler are certified; learning must continue on an ongoing basis to keep security dogs responsive to commands.

On patrol at the largest mall in North America

How do you provide security across 5.6 million square feet of retail space? For the Mall of America in Minnesota, the largest shopping and entertainment complex in North America, mall security dogs are just part of the answer. Dogs can be on the job day or night, 7 days a week, patrolling inside the mall or in the parking areas outside. They sniff at any unattended items, trash cans and vehicles.

The mall also boasts one of the five largest K-9 explosive detection units in the United States. Occasionally, the unit is asked to sweep big events in locations outside of the mall.

People are discouraged from petting the dogs when they’re working, so they can concentrate at the job at hand. But when the work day is over, the dogs go home with their handlers so they have a life outside of work.

In addition to canine security and detection dogs, the Mall of America also relies on hundreds of cameras located throughout the mall, undercover officers and social media monitoring to identify any conversations relating to the mall, to name just a few security strategies. It’s all in place to help keep shoppers, retailers and our economy in motion.

Is It a Good Idea to Give a Puppy as a Gift?

Kitten Coming Out of Gift Box

For years, animal welfare organizations wagged a finger at the idea of giving a puppy as a gift. They warned that most of these puppies would be surrendered to shelters and left homeless because of impulsive gift-giving whims.

But one ASPCA study shows otherwise. In a survey of people who received pet gifts, 86 percent of those pets were still in the home, according to a survey by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA).  The gift didn’t have to be a surprise — people who knew about the gift in advance became every bit as attached to the pet. Even more remarkable, other studies showed that pets given as gifts were less likely to be relinquished than those acquired by the pet owners themselves.

That said, don’t forget that giving a puppy as a gift is essentially giving someone a lifelong family member, with lifelong responsibilities. It’s not something that’s easy to return, like an ugly sweater. Remember; it’s a pet, not just a gift puppy. Here are some tips to help you make the best decisions for person and pet when giving a puppy as a gift.

ASSUME NOTHING WHEN GIVING A PUPPY AS A GIFT

Just because someone used to have a pet doesn’t mean they want one now. Perhaps they’re still mourning their last pet and just aren’t ready yet. They may have extended travel plans. Or they may be planning on moving to an apartment or condo that isn’t pet friendly. And even though that mastiff puppy is adorable, don’t assume your grandma can handle it once it grows up.

NIX THE SURPRISE

Have an honest discussion with your friend or family member and tell them about your potential gift. Make sure they truly want a pet at this point in their lives and they have the financial means to care for it, including the budget for food, supplies and veterinary care it will need. If you’re considering a puppy as a gift for a child, it’s especially important to clear this with the parents, since they will likely shoulder much of the responsibility for the pet.

Consider your friend or family member’s lifestyle: do they have time to spend with the pet, or are they away at work for most of the day? And make sure no one in the house is allergic to pet dander.

CONSIDER A GIFT CERTIFICATE IN LIEU OF A PUPPY AS A GIFT

That way, the person can pick out their own puppy. Pets from rescues and shelters have typically received a medical exam along with any needed treatment and vaccines. They’re also usually spayed and neutered, which can reduce initial expenses for the new owner. Many rescue organizations foster new pets temporarily, so they can provide guidance on whether pets are good with kids, are amenable to living with other pets, or need patience and help with any issues.

A voucher for a reputable breeder is another option. If there’s a particular breed of puppy the person on your list prefers, work with them to find a good breeder. Reputable breeders go to great lengths to make sure their pets are healthy, free from genetic disorders and well socialized. They will also welcome you to tour their facility, so you can see for yourself that all animals receive proper care. That gives you the peace of mind that you’re not supporting a puppy mill.

A puppy supply basket can be a welcome gift. If you still want your gift to be a surprise, and you’re confident your friend or family member wants a pet, consider giving pet supplies instead. Giving supplies such as a pet bed, collar, leash, food dishes, toys, treats and grooming supplies can help allay some of the initial expenses that go with a new puppy.

With any luck, your gift can help bring years of furry companionship. And what could be a better present than that?

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

Good Neighbors: House Training Your Pup, Apartment Style

Taste of the Wild

In general, it’s always best to house train any dog to “go potty” outdoors, especially if it’s a larger dog. However, there are times when dogs can be trained to do their business in the appropriate place indoors.

This is a handy skill for smaller dogs or if you live in a high rise, can’t get outdoors quickly, or work unpredictable hours. Older, arthritic dogs and those afraid of thunderstorms or snow may also benefit from indoor potty training. Here are some tips to help your dog be successful.

Start early.  It’s always best to start housetraining your dog when it’s a puppy. But if you have an older dog, you can use the same techniques to help them learn, too.

Accentuate the positive. Always focus on positive reinforcement in the form of praise and treats. Punishing pups for accidents in the house by scolding them or rubbing their nose in them is more likely to confuse the dog and create other problems. If there are potty accidents, simply pick up the pup and take it to the potty area. Clean up the accident area using an enzymatic cleaner that removes scents.

Choose a substrate and location for your pup to potty indoors. There are many options, from potty pads to litter boxes for dogs that can be filled with kitty litter or recycled paper pellets. Make sure the litter is nontoxic in case your dog decides it’s edible. You can also opt for real or synthetic grass, which may be more appealing to dogs who are used to doing their business on grass outdoors. Make sure to clean the potty area often.

Start with crate training. Dogs typically won’t relieve themselves in the same area they sleep.  That’s why the crate should be large enough for your pup to stand up in and turn around, but it shouldn’t include extra space for going potty. Place a snuggly blanket on the bottom and toss in some of your pup’s favorite pet-safe toys. Never punish your dog by forcing it in the crate. Make sure the crate remains a positive, safe haven for your pup.

Stick to a routine. In general, a pup can hold their urine for one hour for every one month of age. That means a 3-month-old pup can usually wait three hours before needing to urinate. That said, more frequent visits to the potty area increases the chances of success.

When the pup first wakes up, take it to the indoor potty spot immediately. You can give the pup the cue word “potty,” but otherwise remain silent so he or she knows this is potty time, not play time. Once they have urinated and defecated (if possible), give them praise and a treat. Repeat the trip to the potty place 15 to 20 minutes after eating or drinking water, several times throughout the day and right before they go in the crate for the night.

Give the dog more space. Once your pup has mastered the crate, let it explore the living space, on a 6-foot leash that’s attached to you. That way, you can spot the telltale signs of needing a potty break, such as sniffing the ground, circling or whimpering. Then, pick up your pup and carry it to the potty area and give the cue word, “potty.” If your dog follows suit, provide a treat and praise.

You can also confine the pup to a room with an easy-to-clean floor, such as the kitchen. Place a bed, water bowl and toys in the area, as well as the potty pad. As the pup begins using the potty pad more often, you can gradually increase the space the dog is able to wander in the house.

With a little patience and positive reinforcement, you can train your dog to consistently use the designated potty area, and keep the rest of your apartment spotless.

A new puppy text graphic with a white, tan and black puppy lying in the grass.

Tips to Stop Your Dog’s Begging

Dog Begging for Food

Big holiday dinners have enough stress without your dog staging theatrics under the table. You know the schtick: the forlorn, puppy-dog eyes. The whimper. The fidgety tap-dance with the front paws. A pool of drool on the floor for good measure. The barking. And when all else fails, the futile attempt to paw a bowl of stuffing off the table.

Of course, other dinner guests may not appreciate how dang cute your dog’s antics are. But there are other reasons why you’d want to discourage dog begging. Feeding dogs table scraps can lead to upset tummies. Many human foods can be toxic to dogs. Those extra calories can pack on extra pounds. And it simply encourages an annoying behavior.

But there is a way to curb dog begging, so everyone enjoys Thanksgiving dinner, including your dog. Just follow these suggestions if you’ve ever asked how to stop a dog from begging.

Consistency Will Stop Your Dog From Begging

If your dog is sometimes rewarded with a bite of dinner roll, and other times isn’t, this is not only confusing for your dog but it can create an “addictive” expectation, not unlike people playing slot machines. Your dog will keep trying, knowing that at some point, they’ll hit the jackpot with a bite of turkey.

Once you decide to stop rewarding begging, everyone in the family should stop, too. Being consistent with your dog helps them understand that much sooner that begging won’t get them anywhere.

To Stop Dog Begging, Start Training Early

If your dog has been begging for years, he or she won’t transform into the perfect well-behaved pup overnight. If you have time, it helps to start training sessions a few weeks before the big night.

Train Your Dog to a Mat to Stop Dog Begging

If there’s time, you can train your dog to “down, stay” on a mat in the dining room so they can be with the family without being a bother. Start with a non-skid mat, a clicker and some treats. Any time your dog shows interest in the mat, even if he or she just looks at it, press the clicker and give a treat. Each move closer to the mat is rewarded the same way. When your dog steps on the mat, click and treat.

Toss a treat away from the mat, and when your dog returns and steps on the mat, click and treat. Next, start saying “mat” right before your dog steps on it, so he or she starts associating the word with the mat. In this way, gradually reward your dog for lying down on the mat. Extend the amount of time between the time your dog lies down and when you click and treat. With patience, you can eventually get your dog to stay on the mat during dinner, and you can reward good behavior by tossing treats to the mat.

Providing a Distraction to Dog Begging

During dinner, give your dog something even better than table scraps, like a frozen, stuffed Kong. Or consider a food puzzle, which provides entertainment and keeps your pet busy as they work for every kibble.

Ignore Your Dog’s Begging

It’s an attention-seeking behavior. That’s why it’s not enough to simply stop feeding your dog at the table. You also need to stop rewarding your dog with attention. Even negative attention, such as a stern look or gently admonishing your dog by saying, “Stop begging,” actually encourages the behavior. Instead, avoid looking at your dog and act like he or she isn’t in the room.

Initially, the begging may actually get worse, because your dog may think it just needs to try harder to get your attention. But if you stick to your guns and keep ignoring your dog, the behavior will eventually go away.

Help Your Dog Avoid Temptation

If possible, take your dog for a long walk so they can work off all that extra energy and spend some quality time with you. Then put them in a separate room with their favorite toy or a stuffed Kong so they’re not even tempted to beg during dinner. Then they can join everyone again after the food is safely put away.

Dogs at Work: Canine Blood Donors

Taste of the Wild

You’ve heard of dogs saving lives thought heroic feats of in-the-moment action. But did you know pooches also pre-emptively save other dogs’ lives? It’s true. Canine blood donors often provide life-saving blood to dogs who are injured, seriously ill or in need of surgery.

Never heard of pet blood donation? Most people haven’t. About 70 percent of pet owners weren’t aware that dogs and cats could donate blood, according to a recent study in the British journal, Vet Record. Still, 89 percent said they’d be interested in having their pets donate blood, if they met the requirements. Could your dog be a blood donor?

Pets need blood, too

Dogs, like people, have different blood types, but in dogs, they’re called blood “groups.”  In most cases, dogs can receive blood from any group for the first transfusion, but after that, the blood must be “cross-matched” to that dog’s blood group to avoid a transfusion reaction. Some dogs, like some people, are universal blood donors, meaning their blood is compatible with any dog, regardless of that dog’s blood group.

While some veterinary clinics may occasionally tap an employee’s dog for a blood donation in an emergency, most smaller clinics don’t have the time or equipment to separate blood into various components and keep on top of blood typing. Larger clinics may have their own blood donor programs, but most clinics rely on veterinary school or regional blood banks for packed red blood cells, plasma or other blood products needed for transfusions.

Blood donation has its perks

As the owner of a blood donor, you have the satisfaction of knowing your dog may have helped save another dog’s life, not to mention saving a family from heartbreak. But many clinics and blood banks also have other ways to show you their gratitude.

While blood donors aren’t often paid for their contributions, your pet will most likely receive a free physical exam and extensive blood screening. In addition, you may receive discounts on veterinary care, food or flea-and-tick products. And your dog will be treated like a hero each time he or she makes a donation.

Does Your Dog Have What It Takes?

Eligibility requirements for blood donors can vary, depending on the clinic or blood bank. Typically, they look for healthy dogs with calm, easygoing temperaments who don’t mind being handled. (Since it’s a volunteer position, clinics will never force a fearful or squirmy dog to participate.)

Ideal candidates are usually one to seven years of age and at least 50 pounds so that a pint, or two cups, of blood can be drawn without impacting the dog’s health. Dogs need to be current on vaccines and will be screened to make sure they don’t have any infectious diseases that could be transmitted during a transfusion. Donors should not have received transfusions in the past or be on any medications other than standard parasite preventives.

As you can imagine, all these screening tests are time-consuming and expensive, so once a dog qualifies as a donor, owners are typically asked to commit to a number of donations or a certain amount of time.

Blood collection is simple

The procedure usually lasts for 20 to 30 minutes. Dogs usually don’t need sedation and are generally happy to lay still in exchange for praise and treats.

Typically, the dog is stretched out on its side in comfy blankets and a small area on the neck is shaved and cleaned. Blood is drawn from the jugular vein into a sterile collection set. Once the blood draw is done, the dog is lavished with treats and possibly toys or even subcutaneous fluid to replace the volume of blood that was removed. Donors may experience a little bruising at the blood sampling site, but this usually disappears in a few days. The dog starts making replacement blood immediately, so it’s an amazing, renewable resource that can truly save lives.